Surplus electronic parts : https://epartsconnect.com
Stock and Crypto AI Prediction : https://stocksignalslive.com

I got the urge to make a battery connector that fits on my Ryobi or Parkside power tool batteries.
Thingiverse had lots of designs, but they all seemed quite complicated and would have taken a while to print, so I designed super minimalist versions that print in less than 15 minutes.
For both battery connectors the contacts are standard male spade-crimps. It was the easiest way to get a plated copper contact, and it turned out that they are a good fit in both designs.
The current rating should be good, but don't push things too far. An inline fuse is a good option if there is a risk of the powered device short circuiting.
The Parkside batteries are sold by Lidl, but may be available as a different brand outside Europe. Note that some battery packs do not have internal overdischarge protection, so care should be taken to avoid discharging the packs below around 3V per cell. For an 18/20V pack that's usually around 15V.
The Ryobi one is ugly but functional. I may revisit the design later to add a cup for gluing the terminals in more neatly.
The scripts are down below. Copy and paste them into openscad to create your STL files or use them as a base for your own version.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
Here's the Parkside openscad script:-
//Parkside battery mini adaptor
//Use with two male spade crimps
difference(){
union(){
//main block
cube([46,20,10]);
}
//side slides
translate([-1,5,5])
cube([6,21,6]);
translate([41,5,5])
cube([6,21,6]);
translate([4,5,-1])
cube([3.5,20,12]);
translate([38.5,5,-1])
cube([3.5,20,12]);
//Terminal cutouts
translate([8.5,1,1])
cube([6,18,10]);
translate([31.5,1,1])
cube([6,18,10]);
//terminal slots
translate([10.5,17,1])
cube([2,10,10]);
translate([33.5,17,1])
cube([2,10,10]);
//cable slots
translate([10,-1,4])
cube([3,10,10]);
translate([33,-1,4])
cube([3,10,10]);
//plastic and time saver
translate([15.5,1,1])
cube([15,18,10]);
}
Here's the Ryobi openscad script:-
//Ryobi adaptor
$fn=50;
height=20;
difference(){
union(){
//main block
cylinder(h=height,d=29);
translate([-14.5,0,0])
cube([29,20.5,height]);
}
//battery recess
translate([0,0,1])
cylinder(h=height,d=27);
translate([-13.5,0,1])
cube([27,19.5,height]);
//terminal slots
translate([-12.5,3.5,-1])
cube([2,7,5]);
translate([10.5,3.5,-1])
cube([2,7,5]);
//polarity markings
translate([-7,6.5,-1])
cube([5,1,5]);
translate([4,4.5,-1])
cube([1,5,5]);
translate([2,6.5,-1])
cube([5,1,5]);
}
//Pressure plates
translate([-14.5,3.5,0])
cube([2,7,14]);
translate([12.5,3.5,0])
cube([2,7,14]);

It's time for another video with an openscad script for creating battery connectors for common battery packs. In this case, i'm not sure how come this is around the world. It's the little parkside 20 volt battery. Well, it's an 18 volt battery in any other manufacturer, and i did look online and saw that uh there were thingiverse adapters for it that went the full hog.

They covered the whole thing over. They even went under the latch, but i thought that's going to take ages to print. I wanted something simple, so i rattled up a basic outline of a connect that went on like this and take spade connectors and the end result is actually i ended up, making it shorter the it uses, standard, speed, connectors like these that are crimped on, and then The assembly is pressed in with those crimps on it and then their hot melt, glued in place and i'll show you the whole process of making this. So, first of all, you want to take the script down below in the description and you want to print it off, and this prints fast.

This takes about 12 minutes to print once you've got it use a file to clean the elephant's foot bits off this, because it's a very precise fit once it's fouled down, i tend to squish the material down the first layer just to get a good adhesion, so The elephant's foot is when it just splays out slightly outside and you get a slight sort of lip around the edge. So once that's off, and it's going in neatly like that, get your pre-crimped terminals, i chose to use the standard, uh sort of red crimps. This of low current ones and making sure the other end of the cable is not shorting out put the red to the positive, as you would expect shove it in, because it goes in nicely between the contacts and the black was in the other one and again Shove it in so it slides into the contacts and there's a precaution just to make sure everything's snug just seat everything down. So it's nice and tight then carefully get the glue.

I gun a glue gun here and smooth those into place, noting that you don't want to put too much in too much runny glue, definitely not resin. In case you actually end up gluing it permanently into the battery pack. I've just actually melted that away, but that's all right, it's fine! It's going to be super and let it cool, and while it's cooling, while it's just cooling i'll, show you the other one i've made the script is also included down below a lot trickier. I wanted to make one for ryobi, which is definitely around the world uh here's the version i did for the iob battery.

It's again, it's some it's less than 15 minutes to print this very quick. It's got the polarity marks on the top and when it's placed on over the top of the battery port, you can then take the same speed, connectors and you can shove them down here and down here. So i shall shove them in and inside. Well i'll show you afterwards there's a little uh packer that just presses those onto the contacts once it's in, and this is where it gets a bit ugly once it is in you, then hot melt gloom in place, and that does make this look like a very, Very ugly connector, now, if we look inside, if i zoom down, you can see how i actually the contacts here which do make a good contact.

They're stepped out. They've got this little lip here to actually press it in. This was all done by trial and error. It only took a few goes.

It was pretty good, but once you've got that hot melt glued - and this is where really it would have been nice having little ports on top that the hot melt glue and actually supported these crimps better. But as it is uh, i just had to glue them like this, because it prints flat to get a nice clean interior as it's printing up the way and that kind of makes it harder to build ports out underneath without lots of sort of structural support. Underneath uh that gets cleaned off later, but i'll maybe try that later on. But the end result is that uh you get a connector that just presses snugly on and makes a decent connection onto those air contacts.

This one is still hot. I shall uh i'll, let it cool down and i'll be back in a moment a short time later. The glue is now set and you can pull your connector out here. It is with its two solid spade connectors that make a very good connection when they go in.

Let's check that, let's get the metering set to 20 volts because uh this is a well set to 200 volts, actually because 20 volts might be too low. If this has got a decent charge in it and without shorting the battery pack out, let's see if we're getting a good connection which we are getting a good connection, it's a great connection. 20.2 volts at your disposal uh. So that's actually a pretty good result.

It makes a nice solid connection with brazilian, so let me know what you think: try the script down below and uh tell me how they work out for you also. Let me know if this format here keep in mind. It's only going to take about like 12 minutes to print this, but let me know if it fits a similar battery under a different name or if like well, you know what the manufacturers are like. They tend to like move the slots about a bit uh just to try and stop people using their batteries and other products, but yeah.

Let me know what you think: the scripts are down below in the description.

12 thoughts on “Simplest ryobi and parkside battery connectors”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars RonaldDHS says:

    Great work!!! I'll definitely give it a try. What's your best solution to avoid over discharging the packs? (at least Parkside relies on the tool). Thanks.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bryant Fry says:

    Parkside products are available here in a limited way, through eBay, but that's not to say that there aren't people here that buy them. Thank you for the video, Clive.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ellis The DJ says:

    An Interesting video there Clive have you seen the Ryobi 9ah battery you can get from Ryoi also they have a one plus HP (High Preformance) which are brushless

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Broxie Bessent-Rothwell says:

    I almost want to buy some battery pack type tools to test the designs.. I guess i could hack the work ones, but they are in a van 20 minutes walk from home! 🙂

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ESC crasci says:

    Time to print a few out for myself. But as an after thought, I was thinking whether I could just rig up a PCB with soldering crimp connectors in the same shape and making it work. Don't know. There is a chance that it may not have great stability and balance, but it should work. Great Video As Always!

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Harvey Babb says:

    Great idea! I've been just cramming wires into the slots (and taping wires to the Ryobi batteries) and his is much more secure.
    The Parkside looks very similar to the drillmaster battery sold by Harbor Freight stores here in the US. I'll have to print out one of your connectors to see if it fits.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Al Banana says:

    Very cool idea, I think I can adapt the Parkside one for my Makita 18V packs. To clean up the Ryobi adaptor I would print a top cap having the same footprint, with holes and wells inside to hold the crimped cable ends. Then glue them back to back.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars kiefac. says:

    Some snap-in clips might be a good alternative to hot glue, but if you're printing with a thick layer height they might need some sanding to go in smoothly

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars yeliab814 says:

    nice designs Clive. the connector used in Ryobi high current tools is part 300001044. They cost a couple bucks at the tool repair parts web sites. Would be neat to integrate into your design for high current applications. I used a bunch of those connectors with my ryobi packs to power an electric boat.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John Russell says:

    I guess you could then use something like this to power some garden LED lights for a lot longer. My existing ones take three AA cells (I use rechargeable cells) so I am sure with some sort of voltage dropper the power tool batteries would power them for a lot longer and then could be just charged up again. I guess the only problem is whether the low voltage detection is in the battery or the power tool so the voltage dropper may have to incorporate some sort of low voltage detector as well.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lorcan Adrain says:

    I have previously just stuffed spade connectors into the battery slots. Will be setting up my printer later.

    Looking forward to the new Parkside batteries and charger based on 21700 Li-ion batteries.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars TopEnd Spoonie says:

    Great idea actually. I have used the spade connectors before to use my drill battery in other products. I will have to look at the script and see how I can change to suit. Thanks Clive.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.