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This is a waterproof light that apparently lures fish at night. They're available in a few different colours and operate from a 12V battery.
I quite like the idea of a portable underwater light. It could have other applications for temporary theming. I wonder how waterproof they really are.
Keywords for finding these on eBay are:-
underwater fishing light lure
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This is an unusual item and it's got a little story behind it. It is an underwater lure light. The idea is, and i'm not an expert in fishing. You guys can keep me writing this.

The idea is that you throw it into the water at night, and the fish are attracted towards it and it has a long lead. It has a little switch part the way along the cable, and it has a couple of crocodile clips to contour battery. So i show who got onto a battery and show you this. This is available in a few different colors each, i suppose, for a specific style of fish.

This one is blue. Just because i thought blue would be quite nice. I wanted to try it in the local lake with jellyfish, but there are no jellyfish at the moment. I shall turn it on and it lights bright, blue.

This thing is designed for 12 volts. It self regulates at up to 11 volts the current gradually increases, and then it starts kicking back as the regulation sets, and it will aim for about four watts. So it's designed to cover the sort of general sort of charge state of a sealed lead acid battery. Although you could use lithium these days as well, i should turn this back off.

So is it? Is it good sportsmanship to do things like this? I'm not really sure. However, what is unsporting is that when i bought this from ebay, the i got the notification. It's been shipped and i wonder if it was through a third party, they shipped it and they had to ship something because initially an envelope arrived and it i opened up thinking. What's this, it feels really light.

There was a cork inside and i worked out. It was this item that was missing from the batch orders. I've made recently, so i contacted them and said uh this cork just arrived and they said. Oh yeah, we're sorry we ship item.

It is on weight, yes and uh. That cork is gift, so they basically fulfilled the requirement of shipping something out. So i wasn't expecting this to arrive and i was carefully monitoring the uh, the point at which you could open the dispute if it didn't arrive, because it took a very long time it. Finally, arrived unexpectedly through the post, so um, i can tell you actually by turning this on again.

Well, i can tell you that the voltage it starts lighting at is just over 7 volts. So is that right hold on? Let me just let me just double check this: let's get evidence to prove what i say: um i've got the bench power supply here. I turn it down. It starts to glimmer.

It's dropped down to about one milliamps at about eight volts. So, based on that, i would say that, especially with the switching regulator as well, eight divided by about three i reckon it's multiples of three 2.6 volts sounds about right for a blue led at that level. I reckon it's a cluster of three leds in series, but in this each of these strips, which has 24 out of 12 leds and there'll, be four sets in parallel, and likewise this one in the end also has four. So it's basically uh three in series, but four sets of those in parallel on each of these circuit boards.

It adds up to quite a few leds. I didn't actually count the leds that was most remiss of me uh hold on. Let me see one seven. Eight, nine, nine! Oh that's quite a lot of leds nine times the 12 leds.

It's 108 leds, uh 4 watts divided by 108, equals about 37 milliwatts per led they're just running about 10 um, 11 ish milliamps each that's all right! Actually, but the overall heat in this package will get quite hot, however, where would the water get in? Would it get in at this point here? It does seem quite well sealed we'll open it up, or would you get in here this? What looks like silver tape is actually just printed on. I think that basically well deposited on there's. No, it feels initially like tape, but you can't get your finger underneath it. So it's a coating, the surface.

I don't think i'm going to be able to get this off just by squeezing it. I shall give it a go. If it doesn't come off, i shall use the vise of knowledge, i'm sure it's making the crunching noises. Is it plastic or is it my fingers? Oh no, it's coming out.

Oh, and there is a little regulator. Oh they've gone to decent efforts. Look at that they've put sealant around the cable coming in. This is good, a siliconish type sealant, and also here, that's quite neat, uh.

What's the total regulator, this is where i make a complete dick of myself by not being able to read the number in that big, tiny. It's not too bad. 1350 uh, it's a little uh buck regulator. These are these two sense: resistors uh, 0.5, ohm and 0.5.

Ohms so that they're, probably in parallel to give 0.25 and but i shall check this out - let's dig in let's get into this - we shall scrape out the shmur and get into this and see if we can pull any more out, not that you know, there's not Going to be an awful lot really in here is a series parallel array of leds. Am i going to burst something here, i'll, just pull the cable? Oh, that birthday, something this isn't surprising. Is it big, ham-fisted, clive uh? Is that sealed onto the side then, or is it just some of these tend to be friction fit? I should stay more central shouldn't i what if i squeeze it a bit more? What if i no, i was going to bang on the table. That would be deafening if you get headphones on.

So it's not a good idea. Is it what's the pos? No, it's moving it's moving. Oh! It's got that we think there's that we lip at the edge that always stops it coming out right. Tell you what i'm just going to pause momentarily while i bang this really loudly right.

Well, that's the diode pulled off and the inductor broken. I'm not doing very well, i'm just going to go full destruction here that probably also made a loud noise in the microphone. Sorry up, let's get this out destruction style. This is a complete disassembly and i think to be honest that, oh just possibly, i shall get the soldering iron on and i shall desolder the end here.

So we can actually take look inside. I don't think there's going to be anything in here, but it'll be interesting to see the configuration. Actually, i can see the configuration there is nothing in here. There's the regulator uh, it's i don't think there's any resistors or anything in the back of these right.

One. One please i'm just going to probe this. That was quite hard to reverse engineer, because initially i thought i'd located the chip, the 1350 and it turns out i had, but i wasn't getting continuity from the negative to the negative pin, the chip or the positive to the positive in the chip. If i'd looked at the meter instead, just listening for continuity, i'd have discovered that, on the back of this circuit board on the other side of this, one are four diodes schottky diodes forming a bridge rectifier, which means that this lamp module is a universal module.

It can be used on ac or dc, so it's probably just you know a standard 12 volt lamp that has been adapted for this application, which would make sense, particularly since really all they've done, is change the base, but the chip in question the 1350 turns out To be, i'm not sure if it's a masked coffee, don't know it's one of those chips every day has their own version. It turns out to be a little buck regulator and the circuitry is more or less as they've got it, but it's quite odd uh. I shall zoom down a bit so yes, more or less the circuitry except they've swapped the position of the inductor and the leds uh. It's interesting to show our three leds and series here, which kind of fits that and there's also a capacitor across that i get the feeling this might be designed for mr16 style lamps, but uh.

Yes, i shall show you the schematic shortly, but here is the chip. Here are the current sense resistors two half ohm resistors in parallel uh there was the inductor before i snapped off and there was the shortcut before i snapped off the power supply. So a smoothing, capacitor and then a little capacitor here across the leds, that's more or less it. Let me bring in the schematic here is the schematic incoming supply, the bridge racked far made of discrete diodes on the other side, that smoothing capacitor, just basically a local buffer capacitor, going straight to the 135o chip? It has the positive negative as the current sense and the lx lx switches to the negative rail via a little internal mosfet.

I think it's a mosfet is it it would probably be it's a mosfet. This is interesting because they've got a little comparator here. Uh for sensing, the current sense resistors, normally the current sense resistors would actually go through lx and then to the zero volt rail, but in this instance, they've actually put them in the other end of the circuitry, probably to keep the pin down count down on this Chip, so we get the current sensor resistors here and the voltage across them being measured being between the positive rail and current sense. We've got the inductor, we've got the leds and that little smooth capacitor across the leds and then we've got a short key diode in the opposite direction and the sequence of operation is this: the chip turns on the mosfet and it effectively bridges lx to the zero Volt rail here the negative current starts flowing through the resistors and it throws through the inductor, building up a magnetic field.

Initially, the inductor will push back. It will limit the current. It also flows through the leds. Then this current sense detects this.

At a threshold of current flow through and it turns uh the lx off it, it leaves it floating it switches away from the negative rail at that point, this had been positive and this had been negative now the magnetic field collapses - and this end was positive, and This end was negative when that happens. It finds another current path, which is through the leds through that schottky diode, the free field diode and back through the current sense resistor to the other end of the inductor. It's a very straightforward circuit. It was a lot easier to explain that most reverse engineer, but that's a minor technicality that is the curse of these all-white circuit boards, particularly when it's actually dotting backwards and forwards between the layers.

The leds on the side of the unit have a couple of formats. Well, there's actually three different type of circuit boards. The standard format for them all is that you've got the positive at the bottom, which is a down at the bottom here, and it goes through uh, four separate circuits of three leds and there's a tiny little track coming out the side here and there's a tiny Little track going up the side there to connect the negatives, and that means that there is a common bus going up to the top via another circuit board. But the negative for all the standard circuit boards is fed from the top end and the positive is fed from the bottom.

The other oddity here we've got the positive and negative here, but it's actually going through the circuit board. I think actually, no, i'm just suddenly realized something it's kind of going through the circuit board there. It is it's actually bridging onto our side. So when it's doing that uh it's transferring it's got pads on the other side, it tracks the other side.

It's doing the same as this, but it's also going up to two pads up here: to transfer the positive and negative, both onto the actual the top circuit board. The top circuit board itself is of just a rhythmic pattern of leds. It is a common positive that goes around the whole outside and then it goes through each of these gripped leds and then there's plated through hole onto the other side under each of the negative connections. So it's just four circuits of three leds in parallel.

That's very straightforward: again: it didn't take long to explain, took a lot less time to explain than it took to reverse engineer. That is an understatement. So that's interesting! The question is, i could get this going, but even though i've ripped the inductor off, i could just put a resistor on and i could actually uh or a couple of resistance. I could get the leds just going straight off dc, but the question is: are these effective? Do they actually lure the fish and why would the fish head towards the light i have come across uh in salmon farms? They had some sort of thing.

It might have. Actually been for rogue things in the salmon pools that they were attracted to pulsing flashing lights in some way. Maybe it was the thing that's how they found their way to the actual salmon was the reflection of the skills, but that uh attract them. That way, but i don't know um they do them in blue.

They do them in green, i'm not sure what colors fish respond to. But there we go. It's an interesting little thing. Let me know if you've ever used, one of these led lures and whether it actually worked or not.

13 thoughts on “Inside an LED fish lure (with schematic)”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ghosthuntert1 says:

    Hello Clive from Australia. I have something which I think you will find both interesting and lethal. How do I find out your postal address please. By the state of my component orders taking several weeks to arrive, you might get this little gem by the end of the year which is fine. The fella who bought this item off Ebay does not want it back. Apparently it gave him quite a shock, not the electrical kind but the fearful kind. I did glance inside but knowing the general quality of cheaper chinese products, I was not suprised with what I found.. Please let me know what postal address I can use. Oh and please keep up with your wonderful videos. I recommend to customers and friends alike to check out your videos BEFORE they buy something from Ebay or Aliexpress. I do understand how hard it is to keep finding subject matter so I thought I might send you another item for your DONT USE IT ITS LETHAL shelf.. Cheers mate

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Milos Mihajlovic says:

    Lamps of this shape were, long ago, sold as early "corn" style general LED bulbs, having many LEDs – typically 50-100. The lowest part on the white plastic body of the lamp was holding E14 metal screw, while the one above it was meant for fitting the E27 one. Top of the transparent cap had several holes for cooling. The only difference was in a driver, as it was for 230V AC, if I remember well, it was the capacitive dropper. The "corn" bulb I have flickers a lot – that is, a strong stroboscopic effect is noticeable in an otherwise perfectly normal lamp. In my opinion, "corn" bulbs principal design flaw was underestimated cooling requirements for such a crowded lamp, so perhaps they were even deliberately made to supply LEDs with power for a fraction of the time, to keep overall temperature at the reasonable level.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Andy Brown says:

    Try firing a green laser pointer into a fish tank – my (cold water) fish used to chase it like cats! Not sure if it was the green or IR content they went for, but they tried to eat it.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars William Hada says:

    Heck, if you are going to cheat by using a light to fish you might as well go all the way and include a high voltage shock module with it. When the shocked fish float to the top all you need to do is scoop them up with a net. 🙂

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mike S says:

    Sounds like something you might consider, using a small watch battery with a low power LED on a fishing lure that sits in the water under a bobber. Would be interesting to see if it attracted fish. Fish can be very curious.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars tcrenegade says:

    Longtime viewer first time caller long time fisher. Its quite uncommon to use anything but green for a fish attracting light. It actually doesn't attract fish directly but attracts micro organisms which attracts baitfish which in turn attracts larger fish. Its effective but not really considered unsportsmanlike. Usually used when using bait rather than lures

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bill Kerr says:

    I received a similar device as a gift many, many years ago. It used a small incandescent flashlight bulb powered by a pair of AA batteries at the other end of the wire. Not being very sporting and if I recall correctly not legal to use for fishing. Nevertheless I took it out to the end of a dock on the local lake one evening and dropped it in. Lying on the dock peering down into the water I soon saw a couple large fish swim up to it to see what it was all about, so the basic idea does work.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eulogy says:

    Yes, this should work. The Wolastoqey (Indigenous peoples in North America) were noted as fishing for salmon by hanging a torch off the front of their canoes and spearing the fish when they came up to investigate.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Daniel Egger says:

    Isn't that how Anglerfishes operate? Anyway, that behaviour of shady companies is what stopped me from using Aliexpress; I was ordering something, the seller wanted me to cancel that order (for whatever reason) but I didn't notice the "message"; to avoid running afoul of the AE shipping policy they had to do something so they supplied a valid tracking number for a different item to a different person to AE. AE was satisfied and would not let me dispute the shipment because it had a tracking number and tracking proved it arrived, they didn't give a fart about the recipient not being me and the address being quite a bit different than the one they recorded when accepting the order… the seller said: everything hunky dory and AE said: "well, that settles it then". Cancelling an AE account is another experience I could certainly have done without.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars danz409 says:

    the thing with the shipping. was a trick. its to fool those who are looking to buy locally. they are able to provide ebay with tracking for the GIFT that is local but the main component ships from china taking 2-3 weeks longer than listed on ebay. ebay sees it was delivered (they used the tracking for the gift for eBay) and doesn't bat an eye.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Craig Duncan says:

    Great video Clive, your Glaswegian today reminded me of oor wully for some reason, you don’t happen to sit on an upside down bucket when you record these do you?
    Excellent inspiration for us Scottish electricians during a tough time.
    My Wully, your Wully- a’boadies Wully!
    My Willy your Willy – my maws no got a Willy.
    Intended meaning- my William, your William he’s everybody’s William!

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Scott Thomas says:

    Fishing with lights might be illegal in some areas. I've seen the old school versions…a small sealed beam headlight in a styrofoam float, or automotive marker lights in plastic tubes. Never tried one, though.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars HULL GUITARS USA says:

    I think I know where this idea originates…

    I’v used UV fishing lights and seen them used for the past 35 years. Low level UV probably around 400 nm.

    (There’s also a Styrofoam enclosed car headlamp… that sits on top of the water. Sounds like that could get sketchy pretty quick. And would be a huge attractant for bugs!)

    The only type I have experience with… Are long fluorescent UV bulbs. That mount to the side of a bass boat.
    I don’t know how well they attract fish, but the UV lights help to see what you’re doing when night fishing, especially for smallmouth bass.

    And Without attracting big hornets and other stinging creatures. Because when you’re fishing out of a boat at night, there are all types of hornets, snakes, and all other type of creatures in the trees. And they are attracted to any bright light. And will come straight for your boat. I’ve been held hostage many times in my own boat from copperheads, water moccasins, and other venomous snakes.

    I still have an expensive set of fluorescent tube type UV lights. That were mounted to my bass boat. probably 390nm if I had to guess. They were purchased about 35 years ago, and put on my fancy tournament boat at the time.

    I believe they were about $750 for a set of four back then. They were not cheap. But nothing in the sport of tournament fishing is. This was long before LEDs… And many night fisherman used them. There was a shield between you and the light, so your eyes did not become fatigued with the low level UV. It shined towards the bank and towards the water. Add an angle so that it could not be reflected to you.

    It would light up the monofilament or braided fishing line very bright, you could even see it when casting 50 yards from the boat. It was also wonderful for “charging“ your glow in the dark fishing lures. Since it was low level UV light… It would charge up the glow in the dark lures in just a few seconds. And they would continue to glow very brightly, like they had been charged in direct sunlight.

    Smallmouth bass fishing is pretty tough, they’re exceptionally hard to catch in great number or size. And it’s a lot of fun!

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