Wago terminals are here to stay. They have a long history, make easy, good connections and avoid issues with over or under tightened terminal screws. They are fast and easy to use, and there are dedicated purpose junction boxes designed specifically for them.
In this video I took a real Wago connector apart and a generic clone in fetching pink.
I gave up on trying to put the Wago connector back together again. It clearly requires some sort of factory jig to clamp the springs in position as the contacts are inserted into the housing. The clone was a different story. It went back together easily with a very refined approach and single spring strip.
Both connectors have tinned copper busbar plates that the wires are clamped against by spring steel grips. It's inevitable that roque products will creep onto the market at some point with lower quality contacts, so for safety reasons for professional electrical work I recommend only using genuine Wago terminals bought from a local high profile supplier. For personal technical projects the generic imports may be a useful alternative.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
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#ElectronicsCreators

Although I featured Wego or Vago connectors in the past, I've never actually made a video where I took a connector itself apart. Let me demonstrate a Virgo connector. This is a common connector. It's a five week commonly connector.

You lift the little lid up that uh terminal position, you stick a wiring, you close it, the wire is now connected and it's if you add more wires, they'll just be common along. If you want to get it back out again, you lift it up and you remove the wire and that's it. It's very, very good. Um, I got some of the original Wego terminals the real thing and I got some of the Clones that I thought they were going to be identical I Just thought the Clone was going to be a complete rip-off of the wiggle, but the way it operates is completely different.

I Mean it's the same principle of a spring. Oh, let me just cut to the trees and show you right. tell you what here is the Wiggle terminal. So this five-way wiggle terminal has five little levers.

It's a common bus bar that's just a three-way one. I folded these back just to show what they look like because they're otherwise, they've been sticking straight up and you wouldn't really see. but this is a copper bus bar here. It's also looking a bit scuffed because I scuffed it with a file to check if it was covering up.

It is copper and then it's got these spring steel. Springs But it's basically one of these spring steels. Spring the steel springs for each of these positions and having taken this three-way one apart, where is the three-way one which I've now lost I could not get it back together again. it's to actually manufacture these, they have to hook this little lip under the common bus bar and while it's under tension I Just could not get it back together.

The same cannot be said of the Clone. Let me show you the Clone Here is a clue in various stages of operation. Let's Zoom down that. So here it is closed.

Here it is open. Where the little uh lever here just pushes that spring down, the wire is pushed in, it's released and it clamps up. Here's a little lever with a gap underneath it to allow the cable to go through. There is the what well that's actually two contacts.

This is a two-way strip and they're both connected together. This is the main difference. Well, between the Clone and the original wig of Eternal There's a little bus bar. It's also copper that it's all looking scuff because again, I took it apart and that's what it looks like inside with the spring pushing up against the wire.

Now let me show you a little graphical representation which will make this easier and then I'll show you how easy it is to put the Clone back together again. Unlike the original wiggle, the Clone is a nice design. I Have to say so here is the Clone. It has a little copper plate here and the spring is actually hooked underneath at this end where it comes down.

Let me see if I can find that one. Here it is. Here's a little plate. It's very, very tiny.
Oh, I've just dropped it. It's very tiny. Um, and when you actually pull the leaf over, it actually impinges down and actually pushes the spring down. You put the wire in and then when you release it, it pushes up against this copper plate.

It pushes it up roughly Central but it also bites into the copper a little bit so that if you try and pull the wire out, it's gonna sort of bait into it and it's going to act as a bit of string relief too. And degree. but it's not designed to be string relief, it's purely just to grip it and stop it popping out accidentally. The cover plate, and this is where it gets a bit tricky because it's four millimeter wide and about 0.5 millimeter thick.

But because the complex shape of this you could also count this as part of the bus bar down here because it does join so effectively is a little bit more than four millimeter wide. And this is important because there we go. Original was five millimeter, but this is most of the way there, but not quite as generously rated as the Vago. Let's take a look at the Uh Original.

so keep in mind 0.35 millimeter spring steel and a half millimeter thick copper. Strangely enough, the Wego is also 0.35 millimeter spring steel and also 0.5 millimeter thick copper. But it's got this big bus bar. but instead of being at the top and actually pulling the wire to the top of the connector, so in the case of these ones, it actually physically clamps up to the top with the original vehicle, it clamps it down to the bottom of the connector.

So they're very different in that sense, even though the technology is roughly the same. in this case, when you hinge the lever up, there's a sort of like a rotating I guess pivot pin, but it basically it's just held in place for the spring. It's not. It's not like an actual pivot with sort of pins through it or another ad.

It's just basically. well, there it is. It's a a little curved bit that just rides up and down on the plastic and this uh, cantilever inside. That, as well as letting the wire through, it, cantilevers off against the spring and it pushes it up when you lever it up to actually let you put the wire in, and when you put it back, it just clamps down again.

Um, and that is more or less it. I Think the Clone has been engineered to be cheaper and easier to make. Certainly, if I get the bits of the Clone, let's get some bits of the Clone here. So there is the bus bar.

I'll Zoom down this and I shall also Focus Up to about there, that's probably better. Let's see if we can do what I used to do and just go completely out of focus. So having fast around for ages with a very frustrating wiggle terminal here is the equivalent with the Clone. So it's got the springy metal hooks in and you press it down and it kind of slips in like that.

Then you get the little back plate and it slots in like that. Then you get the housing and you put the little levers in like that and this is where it's very very different to the wiggle. You then take this and then you just basically slide it on and click it together and that's it back together and 100 functional. The Wiggle I just gave up trying to put it together.
The Clone is designed for just mass production with all those springy terminals all on the one housing and the way the clamp into the actual copper bus bar is very clever. I Have to say so they are both cover. This is good. Um, I was expecting.

Well, here's the problem: If I was doing commercial installation, I would only use wiggle terminals because I wouldn't use any of the Clones because you just don't know what you're getting. But for personal projects, I would actually use the Clones. But if I got a bag of these, one of the first things I do is open them up and I take the little bus bar out and I would uh, file it and just see if it was copper or not as I did to this one and it is comparable copper colored. It looks like tin copper.

But one day it's inevitable these are going to come out with steel bus bars or aluminum bus bars. They're going to skimp. They're going to cheap out, they're going to use some other metal and uh, that is going to potentially mean that the cheaper connectors are going to burn up. Now the reason there's that Moret a wire knot is screw it.

Loads of different terminology. Canada Murad America Wire Nut Britain Used to call these skirts and they used to be ceramic. We don't really use these in the UK but the reason I get these in the turn block is that there are videos on the internet showing people wiring a continuous loop of wire that goes through a bit of Turner block and then through a wire nut and then through a Wego terminal and then they keep increasing the current. uh to see at what which one gives first and uh, the one that goes first is the Wego.

but I want to point out that uh, the current that they go up to before that literally blows like a fuse. This little plate in here. This five millimeter wide half millimeter plate blows like a fuse. at over 100 amps.

so that's I Think you've got a lot more to worry about if you're running over 100 amps through a wire like this in your house. If anything, the Way Go actually blew open circuit could save your house going on far, but that's not any formal form protection. Other things that the Deadpool tests on them: I think uh, who did pill test I think it was a great Scott did a pooled test on to see about the strength of what it took to pull the wire out. but again, in most instances, you're just you.

You don't All you want is to hold it snugly and you're not really expected to take a lot of string. So I do like these terminals. Um, the first thing I came across them was was that hussman uh I was installing uh, outdoor condenser for a supermarket and it was the terminals that you actually put a screwdriver and you lever up and you put the wiring and it was the first time I'd come across them in the control panel and I was a bit concerned about the reliability. So next I was in the workshop I asked the maintenance department I said you know, have you had any problems with these wiggle Terminals and they said no we've never ever the problem with those terminals which is good at fast forward and working at Disney and uh, the electricians that were doing the sort of general public area lighting for the rides they were all using the push in Wego terminals for all the wiring because they're they just really are popular in Europe and then fast forward again.
they come out with these ones with the earlier version of this with the big lift up lever and then the super compact one lift up lever and I Have to say that I Think this is a good advancement. This is the correct way to go with electrical wiring, so that's what they're like inside. and once again, just like there are other connectors with the bigger lift up levers, the Clone is actually an evolution. I Think it's a better design just in terms the number of components and ease of manufacturing.

It's bigger and chunkier. Look at, there's a significant size difference. uh, not massively significant, but noticeable. But the reward for that is just the much greater simplicity.

So that's it. Even like this, the way the pin when you rock it, it just basically just finds a center point of the contact sliding, then it just clicks over the midpoint, holds up. It's a very clever design, so that is it. Uh, wiggle terminals if you want to use them for professional applications, only use branded ones.

It covers you for any eventualities of of things happening, but for personal use and just wiring up your own little projects and things like that. You know these ones are much better than expected. They're actually reasonably good.

14 thoughts on “Inside a wago connector and a clone”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BTW... says:

    You did not mention the fact that these spring retaining connectors are NOT suitable for flexible stranded wires unless ferules are crimped to the wires.
    The control panel you mentioned that used similar terminals contained this type of wire form, and would/should have ferules fitted. There is no saying what type of wire used in the field wiring connected to the control panel.

    More importantly, there is no saying what type of wire will be used by semi-skilled individuals on youtube, who may now think they know it all. Don't you think?

    Secondly, the Wago and other professional DIN 35 panel mount terminals now in use ARE designed to be mass produced machine assembled, just like the cheap stuff, but will not suffer penny pinching compromise by use of inappropriate materials used in their construction.
    The reasons for that are obvious.

    Frankly, I wouldn't use these things, nor the crappy 'wire nuts' on either solid, stranded or multi-stranded wire terminations. It's bad enough finding them in control panels.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars jimW133 says:

    Wire nuts – ๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿ‘ฟ

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John Cramer says:

    Only use real accidently got knockoffs used them and another of them melted,

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars mark rainford says:

    Not really clones though are they. Wago patent expired and several manufacturers making this style now.
    Lots of wholesalers stocking Ideal as cheaper alternative.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars James Furz says:

    Cmon, load and flame test please ๐Ÿ™‚

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars big marc says:

    They just had to be bloody pink didn't they! Great vid though.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Troy Belding says:

    I think one of the things you can take from this is that any connector can fail, and all of the connectors have their places. Wire nuts work, they work well – but they don't need to be in everything. Well built wire nuts can even survive the nut itself deforming from heat, because they have a heavy wire spring inside that does the work. (mind you, if it melts enough, you now have an exposed metal connection) I've also seen crap wire nuts that had a 'plastic' screw inside, usually just by threading the 'hat' of the nut. Wagos can fail due to heat, due to pressure, etc, but so can anything else. Even a soldered wire with heat shrink could have a problem if a pointed whisker is present, or it wasn't soldered with enough contact.

    There's no reason to call one bad, and another good. How about "Good for the job in question" and "bad if poorly used". Ram that wire into the Wago without stripping it well enough. Strip the wire too far, and stuff it into any fitting, so there's an exposed wire. Just jam wires into a wire nut without actually twisting it – or failing to tug to make sure it doesn't pop off!

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars 777anarchist says:

    Good to know๐Ÿ‘

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Nich Citarella says:

    I started using wago connectors when I started testing smart light switches. It made life so much easier that I have just stuck to them.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Peter smith says:

    There have been lever/spring terminals in electronics for ages. Wago just upscaled them.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Peter smith says:

    I've found Wago to be very hard to find in USA.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars rkalle66 says:

    You did not test the plastic and its longevity. Some cheap plastic may degrade over years getting brittle. Or it is getting soft when heated. Or worst of all its not fire resistant.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mats Anderson says:

    A well done wire nut connection is superior and often cheaper then Wago, clone or not.

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John Crooks says:

    The Way-ta-go Clive to get wired up… lol.

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