For an upcoming video I Have been buying a few different ultraviolet light sources I see ultraviolet. Some of them are not quite ultraviolet. This one here is definitely not ultraviolet. This is a Tungsten ultraviolet type effect type lamp.

It's terrible. but one of the items I got was this and this is a fairly classic generic import floodlight that is just I think I've featured in the video before but I'm not really sure. However, I've also seen a YouTube electrician Channel feature this and say we're installing these in a customer Garden Uh, that's not something you do. The first test I did in this one given its source was I got the test metering as you can probably guess what I'm going to do and I went from the earth connection Earth two screws.

Nothing okay, Anything? No, No, no, no Earth connection to this one. So the Earth wire is fake as it is in so many of the products are imported directly from China without going through the formal channels. Um, I shall power this one up. It seems fitting to use a dangerous Chinese test a dangerous, a dangerous Chinese tester to do this.

so I'll just whip this around I won't really bother today I'm not going to connect the Earth turn I think there is nowhere to connect the Earth than this. it is, after all a Chinese tester. so it seems fitting that it doesn't have anywhere to stick to. Earth Yeah, so I'll put this in here and I'll Power It Up and somewhere they have no, this is an ultraviolet light ultraviolet, but well, I'll plug on.

I'll plug it in and you can see so powering up and it's very validate. It's certainly making things fluoresce. the power is about 37 watts. Is it tingly? not tingly? This is good.

Any tingle at all of it. but these are very very blue chips if you consider. This is a another style one where when you turn on the require kind of a deep variety without any of that blue impurity, something is fluorescing. I don't think it's the front lens here I think it is the actual chip carrier.

Oh I think they're multi-chip as well. That's interesting anyway. I shall turn this off and we'll take it apart as we do. That is a double call switch just in case.

I'm just wondering and the reason it is making a repeated noises is because uh it's programmed for a different wattage of lamp. That is our Chinese tester that just checks of lamps are compliant with their with their a standard reference. So let's uh, start opening this up. This could take a second and yeah that's going to involve lots of unscrewing.

So uh Azure pause momentarily while I do this one moment please. the screws are out. I'm noticing that this maybe it is slightly curved or is it a part of blaming? No, it's the. the whole soccer board is kind of like booing up as well.

Um, is there any heatsink compound in the back? Oh there is. It's sticky. Oh It's glued. What the heck? Hold on.

let's drizzle some isopropanol down the back of this. Incidentally, this black plate is not aluminum. It's Steel going to work. Am I going to destroy the circuit board.

Am I going to Kink the circuit board. Well, it's down the back of that. Uh, Hot Melt glue that's gonna work really well. Uh, I'll shove a ruler down in the back and just try and should relate.

It Off Oh oh, there we go. Yeah, a blob of Hot Melt glue. That's going to be really great for thermal coupling. that's going to be Splendid that is actually just going to melt, isn't it? And I'm not sure.

The thermal conductivity. that's stuff there. That's just the isoproof. No, the back incident is magnetic.

It's steel. It's the cheapest. crap about this is literally going to rust to bits in your garden. Uh, there's the Earth bar.

I Guess it wasn't making a very good connection, just sandwiched somewhere between the aluminum steel. that was almost like a lock thing that it didn't And there's a little grommet here is The Grommet actually sealed around the wire anyway. I Shall take a picture of the circuit board Do I need to take a picture of the circuit board I'll take a picture of the end or I'll just doodle it out. That's the best bet because really, you can pretty much see the circuit board as is.

I mean I'm not going to beat that for uh, for a high definition picture on that. It's quite big, so I shall doodle the schematic down and we can explore it, but there's no great surprises here. It's also notable that there are programming options and there's immediately there's a way to actually hobble this to reduce its power without even changing the resistors one moment. Please back once again with the Renegade Master D4 Damager Power to the people indeed.

Long time since I've heard that song I have done a picture, done a picture which I cropped a little bit to who basically where you can see the seam here that I basically all the LEDs notice there are three distinct LED chips per LED We have the incoming Supply here. We've got a fusible resistor with a very odd value Violet green Gold The gold is the decimal multiplier but it's actually a divider because it's the gold band so it's 7.5 ohms. That resistor is to limit in Rush current but also to Blue like a fuse when things go wrong which they will. Here is the bridge rectifier that then converts that from AC to fully rectified AC which is basically humpy DC with a one Mega ohm load resistor across it to stop the LEDs glowing.

Just with leakage through switch wiring, there is a position to hear from metal oxide varistor that they've not put in. Then the positive is here. it goes to LEDs The negative goes up to the voltage regulators and has a common bus bar running underneath them all. and each of the linear Regulators has a 6.8 Ohm resistor and that goes onto Combust bar and the LEDs are wired and pairs throughout and there are a total of 50 LEDs wired as 25 pairs with three chips each.

Let me show you the schematic I'll Zoom down a little bit more and then we'll do some experiments. We'll chop one of these resistors out and see if it can reduce the power dissipation. So there's the Earth bar just going nowhere. There's live in neutral life, goes to the bridge right far neutral via the fusible resistor and one Mega Ohm resistor to provide a slight load to prevent that slight leakage that causes random glowing.

Not such an issue with the ultraviolet LEDs because they are fairly dim looking in the first place. So into the fact that they're at the far end of the spectrum. here are the Linear Regulators Ev2211b at each with its 6.8 Ohm resistor programming the amount of current that they will let through. These also have that internal thermal sense and if they detect the circuit board getting too hot, it will basically cut the current back.

It will reduce the amount of current going through. The LEDs are wired as a 25 pairs three chips each, so that's two sets of 75. LEDs gives a total of 225 volts across the LEDs and the rest is dropped across these I'm guessing the panels will be different in America. Well, they will have to be for 120 volts.

A couple of things. Looking back at the circuit board: Uh, it did have silicon in the black. There's a Big Blob of silicon in the middle which they'd put on and then they'd put a stripe of Hot Melt glue underneath it and then put it in place. So the Hot Melt glue held in place while the Silicon had a chance to cure and there's two little holes in this.

That means they can basically put their glue on and then just splush this on and press it down and the Hot Melt glue will then hopefully cool down and hold it in place. Uh, the little Rubber seal which is molded onto the end of the wires Which you think? Well, that's good because it's going to stop the water getting. no, it's not. I drizzled some isopropanol in here and it promptly found its way down here and started working out the end.

So water will Wick up the inside of this because your Junction unless it's sealed in a silicon goo. Uh, usually. Well, it's not usually silicon. it's the polymer goo you get for electrical stuff.

It will. Uh, if you have a junction box, water will get in. If you've got taped electrical connections like you've probably used in these, water will get in and the unit will fill up. It will seep in and it will create a little line of water at the bottom that reaches the electronics and then starts corroding or bridging to the case and current will flow to the case.

The case will become live and then the circuit board will fail. That's that's not much nice to say about this to be honest. Uh. noting that if the LEDs burn out, they usually start arcing and burning inside.

This is an aluminum panel and uh, it's got a thin shim of fiberglass literally wafer thin shim as an insulator and it'll burn through that. and that's also a point that it can actually conduct onto the case. Lovely. Since these wires are not in very tight, let's just pull the Earth wire out because that's just going to get in the way of when we do our experiments.

Now, because we're about to test the power briefly. Uh, then lock one of these resistors off and see if it doesn't like it or not. So I'm going to bring up my little Chinese test box which I have misplaced. There it is.

Here is my little tiny test box and we'll check the power initially which I think was about 35 Watts was a knot and then we'll lock one of those resistors off and we'll see what the power drops to. I would expect it to drop, well, a third for each of these. So let's just remind ourselves what the power was I should plug this in and the power is actually know what? That's much deeper looking without the cover over it. Let's try that with the cover on and off.

No, it's it's not bad. It's I think they're just quite bright LEDs they're not the deep violet ones. Okay, right. that was me.

distracted Again, the power dissipation from the panel I'm just running it briefly because there is no heat sinking like there was before is about 37. Watts So if I make my modification, I shall unplug this completely while I'm doing that. 37 now bringing the kinky calculator here at 37. Watts divided by three equals if I cut one of those resistors off, it's going to be about say 24.6 say 25 watts.

It lowers the Puritan Let's try that which resistor is getting. Let's chop this one off at the end here. pal. that's the resistor off.

that is. Its power rating diminished. Let's see if that component now just explodes. When I turn the power on, the power is dropped to 21.

Watts which is an improvement. Well, 20 watts. it's weaving up and down. Oh, shut up meter.

So yeah, that's uh, definitely going to make it last longer though. it is going to reduce the output. Uh, having said that, the best thing you can do with these the best hack you can do them is to throw them in the bin quite frankly under and let the seller know that they just tell them you've got an electric shock offer that should, uh, that should get you a refund. But there we have it.

the completely crap, uh, ultraviolet light and also are used as cold white. Warm White Floodlights They're just. they've cut the corners too much. They could have used this panel in a decent light.

They could have actually clamped it down with heat sink compound in the back. and you know when you look at the frame. Foreign? flexible, Yeah, it's It's fairly flexible. It's not going to be great.

I Don't know how well this seal. It's got plenty of screws I Don't know how well that seal is going to keep the water out of. it is big and it sticks down quite a lot and it's squishy, so it should theoretically do a fairly decent job of Sealing A bit of wobbling. yeah anyway.

or maybe it just won't. but that I wouldn't really trust these. Not waterproof, not electrically safe, Not earth. They're just not a good idea.

But they are hackable and that's useful to know.