This video is about these little plastic inserts that can be placed into wood after you've drilled a suitable hole. I used a flat bit. It was probably not the best tool for the job, they're, probably better ones, but that's what i used and each of these inserts will hold a diffused. Colored led just pressed into the back of it.

So you drill the hole down to a specific depth and then you drill another hole in the back all the way through, and it means you can actually sit these in. They can be glued in and if desired, they can be buffed flush with the surface and then the whole lot could be lacquered over if you find a lacquer, that's compatible with the plastics involved. This is pla now you've seen what it looks like. Let's bring back the light and we shall take a look at the construction of these and how you can make them yourself.

The light is back and even under sort of full studio type lighting. These aren't too bad. This one is over drilled and that's just uh. I get the feeling that there are better bits than this for doing the job.

Also, i think you'd be better with a plunge either a plunge, router or a plunge drill adapted to be able to play placed over where you wanted the holes in the wooden surface and then plunge down to a very fixed depth. But if you were to drill a load of these and then find that something had slipped and you drilled them a bit deeper than normal, it's no gate problem, because these are these are 3d printed and the script is down below in the description you can just Copy and paste it into openscad and you can make custom versions of these in any size, and for that reason, if you had drilled it too deep, you could either just pack it up or glue it at the correct height or just print another one. That's a slightly deeper because that you can change the parameters in so the point of this. This was inspire inspired by a picture of a bar that had pinball tables laid into the top of the bar, just the play fields from the machines and wired up with lights, not a great thing for vintage pinball machines, but if they were beyond recovery, the play Fields that was all right and uh.

I initially thought the first thought was to actually make sort of a concentric circle sort of a lensing effect like this. But then i decided to go for the star effect like this and uh have the radio lines and, to be honest, i think this is better because, although this well i'll show you afterwards i'll show you the illumination how well they eliminate evenly. But i like this one, a lot more because once it's laid in it's really strong, even this uh large three inch diameter one. The 75 millimeter diameter is super strong to press in the middle uh, which means, if you did lay them into a bar.

Then it's less likely to suffer damage with people pressing down them. Let me think now this one was done with a colored pla. It's not a great thing. Really i'd recommend the only color.

That's used is transparent pla, either in colours or in clear, and i suppose you could put a coloured ovally over the top, but ultimately clear with a coloured led is going to produce the best illumination. I think anything else worth saying about these, or do i just go straight into showing you what they look like i'll go straight into showing you what they look like one moment please. I shall start with the biggest cover i'm going to use a code white led just because it's a good, neutral color under the studio settings of the camera and in this instance the three inch damper or 75 millimeter diameter and open scad. It's uh! Oh look at that picking up the light from all the other lights uh, it's all right, it's better! If you're an angle, it does spread the light and it does spread illumination over the whole surface.

But i get the feeling at this size it's getting a bit too big and it might actually benefit from having other leds under different parts of it. However, it's just scaled up from the typical size that this was designed for at the first one i printed off was 20 millimeters. Damn try, that's probably about um three quarters of an inch ish and it's nice. This is the typical size you'd actually find in a pinball machine.

However, then it went up to one inch 25 millimeter, which is what these are and it looks pretty good you can see. It's got very good, even illumination. Now, if you use the focus led, it looks pretty sharp. It looks a wee bit too hot.

The diffused led actually spreads that light out sideways a lot better, so it improves the appearance. Uh, going upwards from that here is 30 millimeter, which is just over an inch uh, 40 millimeter, which is still looking pretty good and then 50 millimeter, which is probably the upper level for strength and also for uh, even illumination. It still looks pretty good if you had this flash on dolphin as a bar top the other lensing effect. I've got here is the concentric circles quite complex to create, but it creates a genuine lensing effect.

It's looking pretty good. It provides good, even illumination. The downside to this is that i think that the this one is not as strong as others, because, while the other ones have those sort of ribs to strengthen it, this one is quite a thin layer. It's basically the front, and this one is set at one millimeter thick now.

The parameters you can change are diameter in millimeters, thickness in millimeters the thickness of the front surface, which uh, if you want to to be able to actually buff it down flat or have it strong, you could make it more than one millimeter thick, which is the Default and then you can choose the diameter of this stem and the diameter of the led that goes into it, not the damn till of stem, but the diameter led goes into it and then the length of it from the front surface to the back and that In the case of these bigger leds that might actually help with diffusion by actually having the led mounted much further back from the front of the uh, the lens and i'll show. These will come out if you print them with a resin printer because uh it definitely benefits from the fact that it it fills in uh in one direction, then it fills it in the other and it creates a nice sort of mottled pattern on it. Just the way it fills it in the uh, solid color, pialli works, it glows it lights, but it's not that great. It's not an efficient way of doing it.

It's not going to be anything as bright as the others, but that is it. If you look in the description down below you'll find these files, normally i try and say: if you know you don't need a 3d printer for these projects in the case of this one, you do, but the good news is that it really it prints very quickly. So uh because they're hollow and there's not a lot of plastic in them, so it produces very good results. Let me show you just before i finish this video.

Let me show you it with a colored led because colored leds are the way to go for getting colored lights. It makes a huge difference. It really does make it look so much brighter than trying to use. Maybe a colored plastic with a over a white led.

The self-colored led is going to produce produce the brightest result. It's a good result. I like these, i'm going to have to get some other stuff, while i've already ordered it for actually re actually placing on a bench top and then drilling these holes in to the correct depth. But that turned out a lot better than expected.

It was a fairly straightforward design and, as i say, the files the scripts are in the description. You can copy and paste them into openscad, and you can print these off to your heart's desire in any shape and size that you want.