Many years ago, I adopted this glitter lamp to take a gu10 LED lamp and initially I used a hydroponic lamp with I think it's got one Blue Chip and two red chips and over time I expected the red to hold its strength, but the blue gallium nitride LEDs to fade and that's exactly what's happened. So I think it's time to open that lamp and change the blue LED chips. Let's go to the bench and do that right now. So here is the glitter lamp in question: I Have to say I've just realized that this has been running 24 7 for eight years, eight years continuously.

So it's not surprising the Lambus degree, but I'm surprised it's not exploded because that's how these often feel. Maybe it's close to exploding, who knows. But anyway, starting off the glitter lamp itself, this is a I think it's calcium nitrate it's based on and it was an original glitter lamp in this file with this base, but I filtered it and I removed the original chunky glitter and I replaced it with Rosco Scenic glitter which is incredibly precise optically and interestingly. I've made calcium nitrate lamps since then, but when I use the Rosco glitter, it eats the metallization of it.

What could they have done to this? If this is calcium nitrate, that would have stopped it. Um, corroding the aluminum of the mylar like that? Could Could there be a corrosion inhibitor in it? Or is it even not calcium nitrate? Who knows. But anyway, here's the bit that we're interested in. this is a lamp and if I plug this into the hoppy it shows.

oh, that is bright. It shows that the pro consumption is just over 2 Watts which is probably why it's lasted so long. Terrible power factor: 0.45 that's normal 19 milliamps and if I point the snow at the bench, it doesn't look too bad. but the blue has definitely faded.

The the gallium Nitrade was normally much more efficient and uh, put out a lot more light. So when this light started off, it was predominantly blue with just a smashing of red in it. and I have fully expected that blue to feed over time in the red to maintenance intensity. Because the Gallium Arsenide red LED chips are much more rugged and reliable.

They hold their intensity bare than that. So let's unplug it and get the hobby out the way. Pick the lamp out. This is where it's actually quite hard getting that lamp and it's really not designed for it.

There's the gu10 holder I put in ages ago. It takes a lot of fumbling to get the lamp to sit into it. so put this stuff out the way. make sure I don't stand in the plug standing.

British plugs is a terrible experience. They're very pointy I shall grab a screwdriver and we'll start getting into this. So I shall Zoom down. It's a standard construction, the base isn't too hot.

Then again, I've not had it on for very long, so that would explain why it's fairly cool. Yes, that's logical, but it uses a standard recipe here that it's got a metal front plate and then three separate lenses over the LEDs and when you take the front plate off, the LEDs drop out revealing a circuit board inside with the LEDs. That one is discolored, the blue one. it's obviously discolored.

Am I going to be able to get that out of there? Have I glued this in? What is that? The the heatsink compound is actually crept in here? I'm gonna open the base that is the heatsink compound I Didn't know it did that. but anyway, this should not be anchored in. this. should literally just be sitting in.

it should be stuck in the compound. So I should be able to pop it out. I have been able to pop it out if this is good. I'm absolutely flabbergasted that this thing has been lit for so long.

It's provided stunning performance. So I'm going to take these three screws out here that hold on to the base. I Just want to see what the power supply is like inside the base. I may desolder the circuit board the LEDs in it just to do the tests.

the power supply looks. Is it discharged? finger? Yes, it's discharged. Um, it's got a little ceramic capacitor on the output so that's why it's been. It's not had the usual capacitor, fewer on that side.

The input capacitor I think will be fine because it's not running too hot and the input capacitors on the main side are not that stressed. Is this a bright power chip? It probably is a brake power chip. Most of them were from that era. Bp9022 Yes, there are data sheets notable for saying confidential do not share, right? Tell you what.

I'm going to desold out the soldier arms on let's do that right now. Pink wire in the middle. Uh, the other wire is out next to capacitor radio I shall remember that he lied. So I'll take that off so I can get the circuit board out.

It smells slightly hot. electronic. smell the red LEDs look dark, but they're fine. Here's the Rogue blue LED Let's see if we can get that off by heating up this pad and then lifting.

it Might work, might not. Oh, of course this is of course a aluminum course heat sink, so not so great for getting LEDs off. Okay, and there's a little dab of heatsink underneath. Did I put LEDs into this myself? I think it was the commercial product? uh I might put this into a vice just to make this easier for me to work on.

That would be a good idea I shall put all the little screws over there. One thing I've discovered with these lights is that many of them the aluminum frame is supposed to press down on the reflectors and the reflectors then press onto the LEDs that then press this against the back plate. I've found in many of them that, uh, the Led. the front doesn't hold it quite perfectly.

there's looseness and it doesn't make a perfect connection. What was it looking for here is looking for? My advice: I'm still looking for my base there in the face, a vase from a pillar drill. so let's open this up. I'm now tempted to change the red LEDs too, but having said that, I don't think I need to I think there's still amplifying in output uh and I Also, don't think I've got any of the red LEDs because I only tended to have some of them are interesting blue LEDs in that format I could be wrong I haven't bothered looking so that's uh, a bit sloppy.

Where's my the southern wig? there's thisildering? Wick I shall add some flux to it and try my best to get some of this solder off here. So I shall add some of this flux onto the strip. The tiny little needle in this tends to block up a bit, but the bit of pressure suddenly the stuff squirts out. Let's see if we can mop this off.

I've just soldered the braid onto the socket board. That's not bad, actually. that's not bad. No polarity wise.

I would uh, expect? Well, I should Mark this shouldn't. I Let's get some isopropanol and clean that as well. It's a bit grubby, so here's a cotton Bud and some isopropanol which dissolves flux and I shall just give this a quick smoosh round here. it's not cleaning very well.

Cruddy old flux from previous manufacturing. Perhaps that's strange how the soda resist, not soda resist what we're talking about here: I'm just all over the place here. The heatsink compound, which tends to be sort of an oil base like Silicon oil and a zinc oxide I Think it is. It's crept everywhere.

That is bizarre. Why has it done that? There will be a scientific reason for that, right? Tell you what? Where's the meter? I shall put the meter to diode test because although it wouldn't actually register a diode, it will show continuity between here and this polarity. So that is positive and this is negative. Where is a red pen? Actually pretty dark here.

There is a nasal inhaler that's just decided to invade the shot for some reason. Not that I really need nasal inhalers for her. Often with having said that, the wintry season is approaching and it might be quite useful. although when you've got a smashed up nose, it doesn't really matter anyway because it's not really going to clear smashed up news.

I Shall get a screwdriver, which is an appropriate tool for the job and I should put a dab of the heatsink paste under there on that. It'll be good to get this going again. And I shall use a generic cheap from high quality Electronics Yeah, right. Uh, Polarti, These things often have a little uh, indenting them to show Pilate and it's not going to lay very bright on this.

Uh, hold on, let's try another way around. So this is the positive at this side. Let's put a little red dot there because it helps and then I shall flue some soda onto that on. say For instance, I shall do the negative First and I've put a retoucher silver in the bottom and a matching Touch of solder here, noting that this is one of these uh, I'm Encore Pcbs and that doesn't help a lot.

That makes it quite tricky. I'm gonna have to really blast into the soldier and after I've got this in position and then I shall Loosely position the LED there and flow the shoulder. Hopefully that solder will flow because well, oh, it's going, it's going and I'll turn this around to make it easier. Hopefully that is roughly lined up where the lens is going to fit though.

I don't think it really matters that much. If anything, it may even be viable to get rid of the lens completely. Um, and I shall put a little bit of solder on here. nudge that into position because it's not quite in position it is now.

and theoretically if I get my bench purse plane, creep the voltage up and I put the negative on there and the positive one there, turn it on. It's on a low voltage and then gradually create the voltage up. Yeah, that's looking pretty good. So far, that is looking pretty good.

Is it not right? Tell you what. I'm going to assemble this together again and I'll pause momentarily while I do that. Otherwise, it's going to end up a very long and boring video. But basically speaking, I'm going to put more compound in there I'm going to screw this back on first after putting the wires through and soldering them on again.

I'll put some more compound, maybe clean this out. This is disgusting. Yeah, that's intriguing. If you get any idea of why the uh, the stuff is fluid, then let me know it's not something I've really spotted that much in the past.

That is bizarre. I'll give this a clean out. Okay, so tell you what. I'll be back in a moment while I do that one moment, please and a resume.

So the only problem I had of this lab there Well, so far it might be more problems was the plastic of the base had actually degraded to the point that putting the screws in I only managed to get two in and the other one kind of just basically snapped one of the pillars. But that's not uncon. Now at this point, I'm going to have to try and get this lamp back in here normally to get it in I Poise it upside down in the base and I try and get it in if it doesn't win. Oh, it's just gone in right here.

Well, that solves that problem. Let's bring the coffee up. this is assuming, but this thing isn't just going to explode here. is the Harpy because it has been Disturbed You know what LED lamps are like? Will it work? Yes, it's worked as the blue back at a decent intensity.

Yes, it's notably brighter. Okay, right. And back over to the glitter lamp. it goes.

Oh, that is notably a lot. Bluer Right one moment I'll show you actually in position, so that is a good Improvement in the blue. I'm not sure how well it's coming across in the video, but there's definitely a lot more blue in the wall. However, as before, it's not as sharp as the red because the red ganim Arsenal chips have a much smaller sharper point of light as opposed to the gallium nitride chips.

And anyway, it makes them more suitable to this. Now, I'm pondering whether it might be worth actually replacing the blue or maybe just adapting a new lamp completely to have red and yellow chips because the yellow chips the traditional gallium arsenide ones will be a lot sharper than the blue. But having said that, this has restored that element of blue to the light, and it's made it much more sparkly when it catches your eye as you're sort of working in the vicinity of it in the room. I Would say that's actually a good result.

.