Let's take a look at another LED flood light. This one is 100 wats, but whether it is actually 100 wats is debatable. Um, it is from Timu, so it's not maybe up to standards. And the first thing I've noticed if I bring in the continuity tester is rather predictably if I go on the earthware with one connection and to the case with the other, nothing there is no Earth the Chinese do not really do Earths and ground so that Wi is probably floating around inside or jammed HP Hazard underneath some glued component.

Anyway, first thing to do is bring in my suitable Chinese tester. I don't need the earthwire here because it's not connected and I'll make sure this is off. stuff this wire in here, stuff this wire in here and we'll see if it actually says 100 wats or it just blows up and it turn it on. This is going to get bright.

it's 37. Wat Okay, that means each of those things is 20 wats. That's I Was expected to be around about 50% at worst 50 wats, but maybe it's just as well given this area here. now there is another test I want to do: I shall bring in the meter and I shall put it round to AC current set it to say 200 milliamps.

move this across to that position there, turn it on and go from the meta work to ground and see what a leakage there is. or it might just go bang and blow the tips off the probes. So AC 200 milliamps turning it on. Going to ground here on my longsuffering sod iron.

No significant leakage. Well, that's nice. That's a good start. Excellent.

So sometimes the large arrays of LEDs the large panels, you do get leakage. I'm so surprised I'm actually thinking thinking, did I even do that right I think I did do that right? Yes, that is correct. I shall make sure I put this back over here. that's not seeing a blowing the fuse in that thing at some point.

Anyway, let's proceed with investigating this. So I shall put this out the way and sadly, there are no screws I Can see in the back here. it's not too hot. That's quite good.

I Can see in the back there are, uh, these positions that they've screwed the circuit board inside, but sadly it looks as the glass is glued in and I don't think this is going to come out easily. I Don't think my spudger is even going to make a an impact in this. It's just going to make scrunchy glass noises like that and send bits of debris all over the place. So I'm going to get the Dremel and I'm going to cut the the whole thing off so that we can take a look at the panel inside one moment, please.

The dring is complete and I've made a huge mess. This is not unusual. Off comes the front to reveal a little flimsy plastic light guide. Isn't this just going to melt? Really? If it was used at any decent power? Um, and I'll put that down there.

the circuit board inside. They're just glued in those pillars there. I Thought they were going to be Scrs, but they're not. Um, the modules are literally just two modules and then there's a separate Uh current regulator to the minear current regulator.

There's the Earth where I'm surprised it didn't a connection look, it was just so close just touching the case like that. but really, just floating the wind here. And the cable entrance I mean it was jammed through I Think maybe that they did make an effort to actually seal that because it's a fairly solid block. Oh, and they've glued it in as well.

Lovely. Nice. H But the cable does come through, which means the water could have crept through the middle of the wires and into the case. So I'm going to take a picture of this and we'll just explore that.

Not there's a huge amount to see, but it's worth doing anyway one moment, please. Okay, let's explore the circuit board. I'm kind of regretting not brushing the dust off the circuit board before taking the picture, but that's okay. We have two fusible resistors at input 30 ohms each, orange, black, black, 30 0 and 0 is a decimal multiplier, so just 30 0.

We have a metal oxide veristor fairly common, a bridge re fire, a 10 narad capacitor measured in the circuit, so that should actually in this instance be okay. We've also another 10 nard capacitor over here. and then we've got three EG 1000 AC uh linear current Regulators each with a 7.5 ohm current setting resistor. Let me show you now instantly.

La30 W Is this designed as a 30 W driver module? Perhaps it was just over 30 WS Not bad for 100 wat light. Let's take a look at the schematic. The schematic: Uh, here's the AC Supply There's the two 30 ohm resistors. there's the metal oxide ver across that we have the brid re far the 10 nard capacitor and then the positive rail goes straight to the LEDs.

The each LED is labeled as a 70x well or 70 star 60 so 70 by 60 mm and then 1B 72 C. What that means is it's only a single Uh circuit in parallel, so effectively just a single Circuit of 72 LEDs in series I'm not sure why B means parallel and C means series, but it's what they do. There must be a reason for that. I Measured 205 volts across the LEDs.

but keep in mind that would have been a choppy waveform. So um, I'm not guessing. That's fairly accurate though. Hold on, Let's just double check that with the Kink calculator.

The Kink calculator says 205 Vols dropped across 72 LEDs is 2.8 l volts each, which is about right actually, so that's a reasonably good result. It would be somewhere in the region of 3 volts per LED chip. Here are the Eg1000 AC Drivers All In Parallel with their 7.5 Ohm programming resistors that set the current through and they just give a combined effectively higher dissipation across three of them for the current and then there's a 10 Nir capacitor across them I Think the reason for that is that if there's any transits or spikes, get through or initially at power up, this is just going to clamp that across that capacitor and avoid any nasty spikes damaging the transistors in these. That just leaves one final test on this thrilling light.

the uh, the wire is finest copper coated aluminium. Let me Zoom down this. I shall Focus up to about here and then we'll give it the flame test. Phys Ing and melting away and crinkling up.

Yeah, that's Corer CED aluminum. It certainly didn't stick to a magnet, so that's to be expected. So there we have it the not terribly honest 100 watt Teu light. And it is interesting to note in the Box down here that it says 100 watt light Decay is less than 5% over 10,000 hours testing.

Do you really believe that? Uh, although having said that, it's not driving them too hard, but there we go. It's worth opening because I've never seen them use this. Normally these modules would have the driver on them. It's interesting to see they've used the separate driver module and then they've used two separate LEDs and parallel connects across that, so well worth taking apart.

Quite an interesting light, even if it didn't quite live up to their specifications.