I got a big floor-standing air filter unit so we could take it apart and see what's inside. These were being sold at a very jacked up price during the pandemic, and then the price crashed when the residual stock had to be cleared. There's a good chance that you'll find these stuffed into cupboards of public spaces, or just thrown out after they have served their purpose of ticking the pandemic air quality box. In some cases the units will have been used without even taking the plastic wrapping off the filter first. (I came across two like that.)
The curse of these units is that they are sold in the same way as inkjet printers, where you are tempted by a cheap unit - but then pay the price later with the cost of replacement filters. Or worse still, the seller just stops selling the new filters and you are left with a useless unit.
Pink background is a silicone bench mat courtesy of Scott (Defpom's Electronic Repair channel).
The function is very simple. Air is pulled in through a multi-layer filter and then blown out the top past the obligatory ioniser. They don't need a circuit board or touch buttons. You could literally have an on/off switch and an optional high/low speed selector switch.
Because of the multi-tap motor winding, only one of the speed connections should be powered at any given time. Powering more than one would effectively add a shorted winding section.
If hot-wiring the motor the unused taps must be insulated.
Motor wiring:-
Black - common (I'd expect there to be a thermal fuse on this connection.)
Red - high power
White - medium power
Yellow - low power
The buck regulator number is LN8K05
The processor is an SC92F83A2
The triacs are JKT1D8W
I'd guess these units are mass produced in China with labelling and pricing to suit the company selling them.
The design is very cost optimised, and much more interesting as a result. They've literally squeezed every feature they could out of a cheap processor.
The filter construction is unusual. The honeycomb frame with loose carbon granules is quite neat.
Note that I flipped the 5V capacitors in the power supply schematic due to the odd topology. The negative side should be at 0V.
The bit that goes "PING" took me a moment to get my head around. It's genius. Basically a hardware envelope generator for a bell noise, where the processor just needs to provide a square wave at the desired frequency.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
The curse of these units is that they are sold in the same way as inkjet printers, where you are tempted by a cheap unit - but then pay the price later with the cost of replacement filters. Or worse still, the seller just stops selling the new filters and you are left with a useless unit.
Pink background is a silicone bench mat courtesy of Scott (Defpom's Electronic Repair channel).
The function is very simple. Air is pulled in through a multi-layer filter and then blown out the top past the obligatory ioniser. They don't need a circuit board or touch buttons. You could literally have an on/off switch and an optional high/low speed selector switch.
Because of the multi-tap motor winding, only one of the speed connections should be powered at any given time. Powering more than one would effectively add a shorted winding section.
If hot-wiring the motor the unused taps must be insulated.
Motor wiring:-
Black - common (I'd expect there to be a thermal fuse on this connection.)
Red - high power
White - medium power
Yellow - low power
The buck regulator number is LN8K05
The processor is an SC92F83A2
The triacs are JKT1D8W
I'd guess these units are mass produced in China with labelling and pricing to suit the company selling them.
The design is very cost optimised, and much more interesting as a result. They've literally squeezed every feature they could out of a cheap processor.
The filter construction is unusual. The honeycomb frame with loose carbon granules is quite neat.
Note that I flipped the 5V capacitors in the power supply schematic due to the odd topology. The negative side should be at 0V.
The bit that goes "PING" took me a moment to get my head around. It's genius. Basically a hardware envelope generator for a bell noise, where the processor just needs to provide a square wave at the desired frequency.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
It's a big huge thing. It's a air filter unit, so we'll start the video at the bigger bench and once I've disassembled it into little bits, we can take it back to the usual bench. So this thing is one of the many HEPA air filter units that were sold during the pandemic. I've just turned it on accident.
No. I've touched something I've It's got touch buttons here. It's very easy to touch them. Let's uh, press this button so it has three fan speeds, draws air in through the filter and then shoots it out through this.
Grille At the end, the fan speeds are low, medium, and high. Oh, that'll be high then and that'll be low which also doubles up as night mode. It also has an ionizer and also timed on our Time Buff which is utterly pointless. The cover comes off I should say uh.
these are all very, very similar between the different brands. Basically, it's a filter, a fan that pulls the air through the filter and then blows it out the other end. They're very, very simple. It's all about the flourish and the The Touch button controls and the features and air monitoring.
This one does not appear. monitoring the whole unit incidentally was brand new. Cost 30 pounds from eBay inclusive shipping and rather predictably because it is Push Pandemic, you can't get the filters anymore. I Think a lot of people have been cut out by that.
Here's the filter. It claims to be four layer. It's got the outer debris filter. It's got the HEPA filter.
We'll take the filter apart already I'm apparently. uh, so there's the inner HEPA filter complete with debris already and then it's got uh, what I'm guessing is carbon fiber I Didn't expect it to come off with velcro. That's quite handy. That's uh, remind me of Frank Tedesco and his piano music.
Um, And then it's got the final stage, which is a cold catalytic conversion filter that does things to organic, invisible things that nobody can see so you can't really prove it doesn't do it. We'll take it apart. We'll take a look for that. Here is the fan that is pulling the ear in from this chamber here.
There's also a little module because these units all have loads and loads of different features and the more you pay, the more features you get. There's positions for modules that might be an incoming air quality module. Not really sure there is a thing here that would pop off, and that is probably for an external air quality monitor. There's a position for a magnet, a magnet in the cover, so when you clip this on, maybe it only enables it when the magnets in place.
Maybe that's pre-ionizer I'm not really sure. The main thing is, we're just going to take this apart. So I'm going to pause momentarily while I take the screws out and then we'll see what's inside. One moment, please.
and we're in. That required slight unreasonable force due to this rather annoying screw. Here, It turns out that the way they are symbol is to make it look screwless-ish To a degree is that the final bit of a bezel that it's put in is this, uh, plastic ring gets pushed down the from the top here and it looks as though you could possibly get a spudger in there. Can you? Maybe you can? Oh no I don't I'm not sure you can. Maybe you could get down there. Yeah, maybe that would work. It's not easy. Anyway, the gist is that, uh, it's a part.
Here is the centrifugal motor. Here is the 1.5 microfard capacitor for that motor. There is the ionizer module down there with its little air I Don't know if you can even see that you see the two little carbon fiber bristles. Let's explore that as well.
And here's the control circuit board, presumably with the power supply on it because I can see the mains come on right down here and I can see the output to the motor. The motor has four wires um, with uh, auxiliary couple of wires coming out from the motor to here I wonder if that's just three different speed settings that are just switched individually I wonder if it's just like multiple ratios of windings I Don't know if it's going to be rotational control I Don't think there's any feedback I think it is just switching windings and so I'll take the circuit board out of this and then we'll take it through to the bench and we can take a closer look one moment, please. The reverse engineering is complete. That took a very, very long time because of some weird circuitry here.
It's a very, very optimized circuit, but very interesting as a result. So I'm going to zoom in a little bit. I Could not really get a big picture of the circuit board because it started off quite big and also got a bit of reflection as well. but I've got enough for us to actually work on I've got a better image as well.
but the main things to note are that it divides into distinct modules. We've got incoming filtering and the buck regulator power supply. We've got the microcontroller We've Got The Touch button inputs and then we've got Triax four of them on the output one, Spectrum the ionizer module, and the other three switching sections of windings in on the motor. The touch Springs despite being touch buttons, don't actually touch them if they're actually exposed because they are referenced directly to it means voltage.
That's how it works. It's looking for a ground path via you and when it's mounted in the front plate. Here, those Springs sit into these recesses and when you put your finger on it, it passively couples and it can detect that your finger is there. I should put that down.
I'll give you a closer look at the circuitry because I divided it into two so effectively. This is around this way. the supply comes in and there is a class X2 filter, capacitor, and a metal oxide varista here, which is used to clamp voltage spikes and prevent interference, either causing problems in the equipment or actually anything going out. There's a fuse down here, which is actually neutral, which is quite odd. Um, then power supply is derived via a couple of diodes and some capacitors. I should just show you this in the circuitry shouldn't I but it generates a 5 volt. Supply but it's reference to the live. This is important because of the way it switches the Triax and also it needs to be referenced to Live.
for the touch buttons to work, they're just an easy way to work. It makes the unit intrinsically waterproof. Incidentally, it was covered in a conformal coating, which was also quite unpleasant to deal with because it made it very hard program the connections. The microcontroller appears by Nato51 based one um the LEDs to get it all into small number of pins.
they're Charlie plaques their Tri-State multiplexed and then look at the tracks and the output here. Switching the windings and I'll show you how the windings in the motor work as well. So I shall bring in the schematics because there's more than there's more than one schematic, huh? Leave the socket board here. it can be some set dressing.
Let's start off the power supply. This is going to be the most complex bit to understand. Live in neutral, Come in from the supply. The neutral goes through the fuse, which is odd.
Then there's the metal oxide Barista the class X to 100 Nanofarad Suppression capacitor and two 470k discharge resistors across it. So when you unplug the unit, you can get a tingle off that capacitor. There is a 22 Ohm resistor and then two diodes in series. It's just a sort of built-in redundancy of having an extra diode, and then you've got a smoothing capacitor 2.2 microfarad 400 volt death beam capacitor, then a little inductor, then another death beam capacitor for double death beams, and then it goes to this little Nk8k05.
Best of luck in finding a data sheet in that all I could really find was a schematic. My voice is messed up again. still isn't it? The little chip then generates a 5 volt Supply using an inductor. Uh, I Took a long time reversing this bit because the original schematic I found was for a completely different.
It was showing the reference on the primary side to the reference and the negative, the ground the zero volt. Um, it turns out that that chip can do both positive or negative and uh, once I'd worked that out, it became a lot easier. But using that inductor and a local capacitor for its own power supply, a couple of diodes and output capacitors, it generates a five volt Supply and it references a plus 5 volts to the Live and it gives us a negative voltage from the life of 5 volts. To give the zero volt reference and the circuitry, all it sees is the zero volts and five volts.
It doesn't get bothered by the fact that five Volts is reference to the live. It has to be referenced to the Live for a couple of things. Next bit: this is one of the couple of things. This is a motor. It has one, two, three, four windings, a base winding which is the high speed winding, and then auxiliary windings on top of that that add in series with it, adding to the impedance of the motor. So you've got a high, medium, and low. And to test this, I actually got some Neons I Wondered if it switched in combinations. it doesn't only switches one triacon at a time and uh, I put a neon on each output and plugged it in again and then tested it with that insulator between me and the Touch button and only one knee inlet at a time and it was AC It was switching.
so it is just standard tracks. Again, these tracks were quite hard to identify. I Made a note of the number, but uh, to be honest, I didn't find anything on these tracks at home. I Shall put a note of that down in the description.
down below. There is a run capacitor which is used to give the motor Direction and uh, the four connections to the motor are the black, one, one of which connection goes to that capacitor goes to the brown of the capacitor. Um, and then you've got the red, white and yellow which are the high, medium, and low and whichever one of those effectively goes live. We'll introduce the phase shift of this capacitor into other windings, and effectively, it causes a rotational phase shift and that's what gives it Direction One of the most common failures and things like Motors and ceiling fans that use these capacitors is if the capacitors gradually reducing value as they do, you can end up the situation.
It starts getting very sluggish to start or it just stays put and it just hums and it won't actually run until you give it a spin to actually start it running and that's a very easy fix just to get a new capacitor for it. Just read the value off the side of the existing one and also note on the side of the case Just for future reference. but um, that's basically how it runs the motor. The ionizer module is quite neat because whereas the ionizer model, it's still in the unit.
Uh, here's a little bristles. Here is the main Supply going to very standard Chinesey type unit. You've got the power supply up here which says Jin Yang and then rather pleasingly it's got two different colored wires going to the emitter and you know what that means. it means it's probably a bipolar ionizer with one positive and one negative and that means there's going to be increased Corona discharge activity between them creating hydroxyl radicals as they say and a little bit of ozone, That's what we want Trace Levels of ozone and other active things in the ear that emulate nature that would normally be depleted indoors.
I've mentioned this: If you want to see the ozone video, just look for my my Ozone video. Uh, it's there's one specifically about ozone and A the output of these devices and what they do to actually replenish what are actually vital components of the air. even if all the currents think they cause cancer and kill the babies. That's just one of these things they just jumped on. For some reason, the tracks are switched from the microcontroller via 510 ohm resistors, and it's interesting to note that to do that because this is effectively the plus 5 volt. Supply it's pulling the gates of the Triax negative to the zero volt reel, so it's taken them from the plus full on the Mt main terminal one to the uh, the negative 5 volts and that just is much more efficient. For turning tracks on. it's much easier to turn them on by doing that.
Most Triads can be triggered in any combination. Because these are switching, you see they can be triggered whether this is positive and this is negative or vice versa. or whether the gate is positive or negative. they can be triggered usually in all four combinations of that, but the most efficient, the one with the lowest current, which is useful here, is to actually pull them negative with respect to the Mt1, the main terminal one.
and this is so. this is Mt1, Mt2, and this gate. there is another. Oddity Here, the microcontroller also has a zero voltage Crossing reference.
It can monitor the supply I Don't know if that's just to detect when the supply is cut off I Don't think so I Think it's to detect the zero crossing point so that it can turn the tracks on as it crosses as the zero crossing point of the sine wave right there there and there. because if you do that, it means there's no interference. There's no pop or click. It's just a himself.
during the circuitry as well. it just produces interference. But to achieve that, and I don't know why they did this I Think it's nice that they did it. They've got a couple of resistors from the neutral high value resistors.
um, and there's a smooth filtering capacitor and a diode. Just a Zener diode clip. That and that just provides an input reference that will pulse positive and negative. and at the point it changes state, that's when it crossed the zero.
Crossing Point After this, the circuitry gets super easy and weird and delightfully weird. I Have to say so there is the microcontroller again. I've I've found one like listing that just basically gave a clue as to what it was. It's a very Chinese industry microcontroller and it's based in the 805 one, which is very common.
but I could not find anything other than a seller on a random Chinese website actually selling them. So we've got the 5 volts. We only have to worry about 5 volts and zero volts here. and uh, this, this is the Piezoelectric Sounder the bit that goes Bing and it's really clever I Had to actually swap bastards and stuff that I Had to test this because initially I couldn't work out what it was doing because it's a very odd way to drive a piezoelectric.
Sounder What it's actually doing is this: PNP transistor turns on First and it charges this capacitor up via this resistor and then this transistor turns off and then this one puts out the square wave of the required frequency. And because it's now being powered entirely by this little charged up capacitor, instead of just going beep, it goes Bing That's the actual ringing circuit. It's not being done in software. all it's doing is putting out a constant Square wave at that frequency. so when you turn it on, it goes. It's actually just going BBB But each time before it does, its Bing It's charging that capacitor up, then it's turning that off and then just discharging this through the Piezo uh at that square wave. And this resistor here is just because the piezoelectric would, uh, it acts almost like a capacitor and that you need that resistor across it to actually be able to actually make it pulse and make make noises. That is so cute I Really like that I Was really surprised when I worked it out I changed that capacitor for a much bigger one and instead of going bing bing when it started, it went beep beep.
It didn't do the Bing thing because it wasn't it. You know it was able. This was fully charged at a higher level. Uh, so it can do that.
So that demonstrated that is that that creates that Bing noise. Very clever. Very neat. It makes the software a lot easier.
The other things it's got are the touch inputs. They're just basically those Springs on a resistor going to an input I'd wonder if these are either a high impedance input or and it's just detecting the voltage difference when you put your hand near it because you're effectively referenced to ground if you've got one of these and you find that it doesn't work in a socket, that none of the touch buttons works and it works in other sockets. It may just be because they're live and neutral swapped. That's effectively how it works.
but it makes me wonder: is it a dedicated touch input in this microcontroller? Because it was going to various random pins? Um, Oh yeah, it was. um, these pins down here and that one up there? I Don't know if they're on the same port. It would make it easier in the software if it was. but I Wonder if they're just standard inputs that they've used? This trickery of just the high voltage differential between the circuit board and U and that plastic insulating plate between the springs is quite neat.
The LEDs only have four lines controlling them. Let me show you that in a circuit board as well. Uh, these four lines here under. That means it can drive up to 12.
LEDs There are 11 in this circuit board at the moment. There's one there for an option. There's also a sensor input option. uh, probably an air quality.
Monitor And but to do that, it uses what's called Tri-State multiplexing and you can drive 12 LEDs from four lines. basically four. minus one is three times four. That's the number you can drive. If you had five, Lanes it would be five. Minus one is four times. five gives you 20. LEDs It lets you run a lot of LEDs from a very small number of pins and the way they do it is they don't just toggle them high and low.
they actually make them high impedance. or they actually they can go in three states. They can be positive, negative, or floating. And by arranging the LEDs in inverse parallel to each other in a combination, you can drive 12 LEDs individually and if you need more LEDs on you scan it, you Multiplex it.
It's got the five tracks out. That's very simple. Just because of that referencing to the 5 volt and live it means it's just simple. It only requires about 10 milliamps so they're using 510 ohms and it's got the zero Crossing detecting and that is it.
This looks so simple if you knew how much time it took to reverse the engineer that it it really. it's too simple. But now let's take a look at the filter. So I shall zoom out a bit for the filter.
It's all very optimized. There isn't a single pin of that maker controller left. They have used the whole lot. So here's the filter with its noise and if we peel off the front, it just reveals the pleated paper filter that is the HEPA filter.
High Efficient efficiency, particulate filter or whatever it is. It's got velcro around here so it's designed to have this peeled off. These are supposed to be disposable. You use them for x amount of time and energy.
Warning comes up. It may come up as a warning or it may beep. Um, but after that you're supposed to throw them out and put a new one in. You can usually clean these but it is paper so you have to be very careful.
You can vacuum it out and well in some instances you can use a Horrors and actually hose dirt out from the other side, but this one has more in it and I think we're going to have to open this to see what it is. It claims to have a cold catalytic filter called Catalyst, which is a lot of hype in the industry, the air conditioning industry. So what I'm seeing here is it looks like a plastic mesh hold on I Didn't realize it was going to come out completely. Let's rip the whole wire.
I Didn't realize this was going to be a complete separate uh layer with the carbon granules here. I said carbon fiber earlier. I actually meant activated carbon. The charcoal stuff.
Is this going to come out? Hold on. Let's just rip the whole thing a bit. This bit, as far as I'm concerned, is a gimmick. The air filtering companies will disagree.
So I'm going to guess that this one is based on titanium dioxide is it called Catalyst and the cold catalyst is supposed to if it's real. uh, remove volatile organic compounds from the air like formaldehyde and stuff like that. So here's the other side of that pleated paper filter. and here is this: uh, double side mesh.
Can you see the carbon granules hold on? I'll shine a light through it or I'll put a bit of paper behind it. Here's the drawing behind it that? sure? No, it doesn't right? Say well. I'll shine light down through it. Does that help? I shall zoom in. see the carbon granules in there. So they've basically got this plastic support mesh. Now this doesn't really look like that. What? I'd Expect the titanium dioxide.
I Normally expect to be very, very white, but if that's the case then what they're expecting here is that if it was titanium, dioxide, it would be reacting with the volatile organic compounds and did be absorbed into or modified in some way. Quite realize that activated carbon. It just removes odors from the earth. It's got a reputation for being able to do that.
It is a standard thing, but this is not what I was expecting. This just looks like a plastic frame. Maybe oh you know what as that got it on it. It might have a coat in this side of this uh paper because it looks kind of sparkly and if it might have titanium dioxide I don't think it's the green form I think that's just the final stage.
Um I did uh look up and uh, found one website seeing titanium dioxide. it's the future Asbestos and it was real scaremongering and then right at the bottom of their article it said we represent much safer technology with bipolarion ionization so it was just basically marketing hype. Science goes out the window when Market gets evolved. So I don't know if this, uh I don't know what the titanium dioxide if it is, that is the cold Catalyst if there is one, or if it's just a slight Sparkle on this, it certainly isn't something I'd associate with the plastic I Think this is purely the carbon filter, but that is it.
I'm not going to be able to get a replacement filter for this because that, uh, that company seems to have stopped selling that one. But there we go. It was interesting. It was well worth taking apart I did get it purely for us to take apart and explore.
and I Have to say, the favorite bit of circuitry in it is the Touch button Arrangement and also that little double transistor thing. Let me show you the double transistor here. There's the Sounder and there's a double transistor in the back, one for charging up the little capacitor down here via that 100 ohm resistor and the other one for actually making the square that makes it literally go ping. So that's it.
It's a very nice, wobbly little circuit. Uh, it's very functional and well, ultimately, I suppose it works and the circuitry is designed such. There aren't a tracking slots where they should be, and it seems quite logical. So uh, it's not bad.
Not bad at all.
I believe the greenish material on the back of the filter pack may be a biocidal filter. I have some sunpentown "magic clean" air cleaners which have a green nonwoven fabric bonded to the back of the HEPA filter, and that's what the manual for those units says it is.
i ordered some cheap filters and I'm convinced the "carbon" is black plastic balls as they dont like carbon chunks, smell like it, or crumble the same.
High Efficiency Particle..A?… Accelerator? scientists love those!
At least with the fuse in the neutral we know for sure that it never got tested for UkCA as in the UK a short from live to earth would never blow the fuse. Even a short from neutral to earth would not blow the fuse.
Interesting, thank you. I wonder if that’s how the touch switches on a glass hob work? And I know know what’s likely to be wrong with the tumble dryer – a dodgy capacitor. Replacement ordered!
What about extending the internal filters life by covering the air intake hole using a car filter or covid masks? Just tape it over like the Apollo 13 astronauts did? The idea being to prevent the dust from reaching the catalysts? Also would activated charcoal from an aquarium shop do as a replacement for the supplied stuff when home making a new filter?
"If you want to see the ozone video, just look for my…my ozone video." This is the kind of wisdom you cant get just anywhere lol
I'm not sure who copied who, but it's exactly like air cleaner from Tefal "pure air" european maker, but this smaller in size by x1,5. Tefal's costs like $300, it was cheaper in older model but they made a new adding Wi-Fi and smart app as usual.
I teardown Tefal's one because of need to change or isolate the noisy motor. Tefal's have a huge problem from the factory that motor in are quite bigger and powerful, it started a vibrations after several days on the quietest mode and internally don't contain any damping material for it's fixing screws. Also their "night" quietest mode annoyed me by being not so quiet, too many rpm. Tefal have exactly the same but bigger changing filter by size, in total a 4 stages, net for dust, next a same box of duo-filter contains hepa and biochar glued and the last they giving an add-on separate filter box of some clear granule balls against formaldehyde (which when new are clear but getting yellow with time and this filter must be changed most often, consumer must check the color of granules). Also Tefal provide a "dust" sensor on the side of the device which is a primitive optical light sensor connected to 3 leds and by getting dirty it shows with leds a need to check filters.
I installed additional filtering sponge like in your video the blue one before hepa, this blue sponge used in aquariums, against big dust.
Overall I could say that using this Tefal cleaner during night is feeling quite cold because of constant air circulation in the room, but with few blankets it's normal. I'm amazed by the effect of it, it never gives me a cold ill, but always a fresh feeling in the morning, maybe activated charcoal really helps or more oxygen breathing. In contrast, turning it off and sleeping as usual in a closed room with stale air gives me worse effects like rainy noise and etcetera sometimes. There's something health positive in the air circulation with removing at least some particles from it. I've tried it during flu and can't say if there's an effect, but it's not making flu or cough worse.
Dust removal are questionable, that's the main reason I bought it in the first place to stop cleaning the computer from clogged fans, but dust even with this air cleaner continues to produce and collects everywhere in the room and vacuum cleaning is required every month as usual.
But I'm not sleeping with it working every night, only in need to get-up fresh, it's not fully quiet, I'm still searching for a smaller motor to replace bigger in Tefal. I'm not regretting buying it.
The random Tedesco drop lol
That beeps sounds reminds me of my Frigidaire a/c or whirlpool Cabrio washer.
1. you can use automotive air filters in some units as that is what they used.
2. the blank spots for parts of other models under windows vista is not allowed.
I bread-boarded the beeper circuit and am driving it from an Arduino Nano. It does make a fairly pleasant ringing sound, although those piezo buzzers want to work at 4,000 hertz for best output, so it's very high pitched.
Thought you were going to mention an Etch-A-Sketch when you shook that HEPA filter….🤔🤣
From what I remember, titanium dioxide nanoparticles only really do the catalysis thing when UV light is present, or at least they do a lot more of it. Zinc oxide, by the way, is also sometimes used for the same purpose and the two have gained some interest for use in slowing bacterial growth.
But what I think would work better in this application is an ozone generator used to continuously regenerate the activated carbon.
The decay circuit is really neat. Might have to use that one myself one day.
As for the filter itself I have landed on using Levoit replacement filters for my projects, mostly because they're circular in shape. That means the shape is always convex even if it's warped a little, which is easier to form a good seal around. From what I can tell they are very similar in construction.
Sorry Clive, voltmox PFC scam ad on you tube, one of the sales images looks suspiciously like one of your schematics. Worth checking out.
There is no intentional construction to put the fuse on neutral, all double insulated devices like this are designed to work with live and neutral either way around since most of the world has non polarized sockets. When they send units to the UK they probably put on the plugs in random orientation.
You will find if you swap live and neutral it will still work fine, the microcontroller will detect your touch from the Neutral-5V.
I would be a bit wary of the touch switches with only a single layer of plastic between mains voltage and your finger. How unlikely is it to develop a crack?