It's Project Time now. Regulars to the live stream channel. Yes, there is a live stream channel called Big Clav Live. Uh, we'll be familiar with the supercomputers which are basically panels in the background.

Let me turn the light off there. It looks like a Sci-Fi Supercomputer. Like coming back watch your eyes. Uh, the live stream channel.

Incidentally, imagine a pub table with over a thousand technical people out at the weekend. It's the conversation is sometimes a bit risk, just so you know that it's not like it's not all happy fun fun. Like this channel? Well, it is a happy fun fun but in a very different direction. However, we have the super computer panels on that, uh are in the background all the time.

This is basically just a matrix of self-flashing LEDs If I turn this off and on again, they'll all be in sync and they'll flash Bond off together, but then they'll gradually go out of sync and that's all there is to it. It's got resistors and series to limit the current and keep the power sensible and also intends to do because otherwise it would be Mega braid. However, this project excuse me getting rid of this out of the way here. This project I thought I'd make a super pure LED lamp using one of the many lamp kits that are available from eBay and what you get when you buy one of these kits is you will eBay and AliExpress AliExpress Might be a better options these days, but what you get is a circuit board for the LEDs a bigger power supply that you put components on yourself, the housing with just a couple of wires sticking out and then I usually extremely tight fitting Dome because over the front holds everything in place.

You can also get kits with the LEDs but uh, well, even without LEDs, it works out more expensive than just buying an LED lamp. but it's fun to build although it does require men's voltage experience. Not recommended for people who are new to electronic assembly. The power supply has most the component values marked on it and I'll show you the schematic of this because that will make things a bit easier because there's also limitation.

Looks like this: let's Zoom down. It has the per Supply capacitor, a dropper capacitor. In this case, it's one microfarad which is huge. I'll be downsizing that for a lower current.

it has a 470 key resistor. cross it as a discrete redirect Fire based on what looked like 1n4007 diodes. only one in four, double seven, one and four double O7 they are. It's got a 400 volt Dash beam, 4.7 microfired capacitor, a 200k resistor across that which I have an helper if the LEDs go open circuit because they're that resistor will then dissipate twice its rating and then bizarrely this 10 Ohm resistor here.

This resistor here should really actually be down here, but they put it over there. I might put it in line and just use a different resistor there, but then the LEDs because of the huge number of them 120. In this case, they've got them wired either as pairs or in this case Triplets of LEDs in parallel. I've not even drawn in my Wii dinky arrows to indicate that they're exploding with light.

But what I'm gonna have to do here I'd love to put all flashing LEDs in this, but that's not going to work because the flash LEDs tend to go open circuit when they're off and if they did that, the voltage across them would fly up really high and when they turned on again, it could cause a current pulse from this capacitor. So what I'm going to have to do is popularly all the middle LEDs with just fixed uh static LEDs and I've tested this I've got some LEDs and I plugged them into my little LED tester like this. Now normally when I buy my LEDs I buy a big bag of a thousand because uh, that way you get marched LEDs In this case they didn't It was like they basically took two handfuls of LEDs from different sources and put in one bag. That is pretty annoying, but the plan is crinkle crinkle that I will get one static LED like this and then across that will be two flashing ones and the static one will cap the voltage.

Note: It's important here to try the LEDs you choose in advance because if the if you used a red LED here it would cap the voltage. to two volts and these would not light. So you have to use an LED with a very similar voltage or a slightly higher voltage. so you have to experiment.

you can see when the other ones come on the current limiting one dips. So now let's start building it. So the first thing I'm doing here: I've looked at the circuit board. it's double-sided and it's got pads on both sides.

I could have done this to the single sided board, but I followed the track side round and I've put a dot in the middle of each cluster of three. LEDs and now I'm going to solder one of these LEDs into each of those positions and then I'll probably build the power supply as well and then I'll test it just to see initially if that smattering LEDs lights up. So I'm going to do that now one moment, please. So I'm starting the power supply and I have initially cropped the leads down a little bit, not fully.

I'll be cropping them further, but just to make it easier to gain access for soldering. I've put the components in and I've put a bit of sellotape across the back to hold them in place so I can solder more at once instead of just doing one at a time. So now I'm going to wipe the tip of the soldier and make sure it's clean and shiny. and I'm going to start soldering this and it's not going to take too long.

I'm going to solder all the one end of a row of components first and then go to the other side just because it helps let the heat dissipate from the component. I've already swapped one component I've already chosen another capacitor. I'm going to use 220 nanofard for the current limiter just because I want the current to be lower. So let's just, um, start soldering the other side now.

Then I shall pause when I put the LEDs into the round circuit board just because that is going to take quite some time. I'm tempted to initially put just the static white LEDs in and then test it with this power supply first to see if it lights up okay, which is quite good that I'm using a lower volume capacitor for that. so that's those components sorted in and I can crop those leads, tape comes off and I should just crop these willy-nilly these Snips although they're blunt at the tip, are fine for cropping components because it's just the tip that is blundering to the fact I misuse them as I sometimes do to cut stuff that was inappropriate. Now this capacitor.

make sure we get it in the right weeks, otherwise it will go kaboom. Uh, so this is the negative going. That's the positive the two bands point in, so that's a positive there. So I'm going to initially fold the leads over like This then place it through the circuit board and so do that salsoda one lead initially and just check its positioning before.

I Saw the other one. Don't want to put too much pressure on the leads of a electrolytic capacitor. Let the sort of cool. I'm using lead based soda.

Controversial. Oh, it's dangerous. Everybody's gonna die. What about the babies? Etc Yes, it's a bit that makes soda flow better and malleable, which is good for solder, It means it doesn't break so easily and grow tin whiskers.

If so, a whole science behind soda that was just thrown out the window by people with strong views. right? this capacitor. They've got plenty of positions for the capacitor, so I'm going to put it in there and there. Let me change this capacitor afterwards.

It's just a real initially a test to avoid strain the capacitor. I'm going to back off the circuit board a wee bit, lift it off and solder one of the leads. actually. you know what a mate actually tilt it back like that and lay it across the other components.

That'd be quite nice, wouldn't it? It would have been quite nice. It looks quite smart and it would be easier to get a heat shrink across because I don't want to just have the circuit board rattling loose in the uh inside the light in case it touches the back of the LED circuit board and goes Kaboom and all my good work disappears in a puff of smoke that's looking good Great! Next stop the LED circuit board one moment please I am cheating just a tiny bit I've got a PCB assembly frame I think it's made by ISO Not sure where you'd get one of these from, but once you've put the components in from the other side, it holds it in place while you solder them in without having to do it one by one because otherwise you know it would take a lot of time. So I'm going to solder one pin of each LED at a time. Now they've got Square pins, a square patches let's say to indicate the positive terminal, and round pins to indicate negative turnoffs.

I'm starting the positive term just because. well, it's a random Choice It also has an advantage that uh, if it needs a reworked, if it needs realigned by sorting the positive first, it's the one that the little leg up the side of the Anvil that holds a chip. So it means the chip gets exposed to less Heat this way. But anyway, this is going to be a very time consuming, but it was a project so I shall pause momentarily until this is all soldered and then once it's sorted, we can test it initially without the flashing LEDs just to see if the white LEDs are going to light.

I should say that I've already thought of something different. These are in multiples of three in parallel all the way around. If you marked as the clusters of three in parallel, you could have positioned it so the flashing LEDs were more interspersed because at the moment it's forming Stripes of the fixed LEDs but uh, it's just the only way to discover things like this is to make one. But anyway I shall post momentarily and we'll see it once the LEDs have been sorted in one moment.

please. Testing time and to make it more realistic I have not tested this I thought I'd start the video again before I did it just in case everything was horribly wrong because then it gets caught in video. so I have tapped the connections on here. just double checking right now they are absolutely correct.

Uh, let me just check. Yeah, it looks all right. Um I've got my little power supply thing I've put the little inline 10 Ohm resistor and our new series resistor with uh to replace that 10 ohm one I put a 470 ohm resistorant Let's test and see if it light or goes bang. it is lit.

This is good and if all that so I've put them on the right way around. The power is 1.2 Watts which is going to be good. perfect for the super computer type thing. uh, 14 milliamps.

AC Power factor is 0.357.36 It's fine, it's just what you'd expect for simple capacitive dropper circuit like this. Okay, time to put in all the flashing LEDs now one moment please, the other LEDs have been sorted in. Let's put the leads on and test this. so the middle connection is positive.

This is not plugged in a month I Just thought I'd mention that although it should be, but it's not always obvious sometimes I do the weirdest things so positive in there negative to the outer connection I will be sleeving this in a bit of heat. shrink this power supply I'll put that there. is it going to work? Let's see how the power's changed as well. The power May fluctuates up and down a little bit.

It's that arm properly that's on fine. Okay I shall bring in the hockey again. Where is zombie? There is the hobby I Could also use the iron type but the hopping is a slightly brighter display. The anti is better at weird capacitance loads though.

So what we're getting: Three, two one, oh a couple haven't let. Oh no, they have lit. They're just. uh, some didn't light initially.

Yeah, that's fine. Hold on I'm going to turn off off and on again. Why didn't the other ones light up? Oh, they have now. So now we have right too.

I'll zoom in in this I shall zoom in in it. Um, nudge it in with a pen, change the exposure slightly. Uh, hold on I'm just going to expose right into the middle of this. Well, that's better.

Oh that's slightly. flickering the look of it. uh, that could do with a bigger capacitor on the power supply. But here is our super computer.

It looks alright. Takes you a second to spot the LEDs that aren't flashing just because it is rather chaotic. Uh, power consumption that says squish this to the side I'll Zoom back out again and brighten up the exposure. Bring in Zahape and we can take a look at the power.

The power is uh, 14 milliamps 1.26 Watts That's really good and just over a watt for the supercomputer land. Uh, 0.356 per Factor Let's bounce something down a bit. Right enough. Okay, okay, right.

I Shall unplug it. Put this sleeve over, stick the circuit board in, clip the lid on and we'll see what the final product looks like one moment, please. And there we have it: the 120 LED of which ATF flashing Super Computer lamp Looking very bright to the human eye. It's tamed down for the camera.

Also, that flicker is very notable. It would just blur out if I turn the brightness up. but uh, it's showing at 1.2 6 Watts roughly air power consumption on the Chinese power supply meter. that thing down there.

hold on. hold on that thing So that's a success. That's not bad. It's a very interesting and unusual lamp.

Another option here where you could use uh, actually, how would that work with three in parallel color changing LEDs You could do that but when any particular one was at Red it might hog the current a bit, peel the voltage down, and but having said that, this is, uh, interesting result looks good to me and you can't really see too easily. the LEDs aren't flashing, it just gives them pressure. You still get the sort of chaotic patterns, so I would say that's a good result. Well worth doing.