This device is an automated water kettle that heats and then vends a single cup of boiling water on each operation. It's fast (50 seconds) and efficient as it only heats the amount of water that is needed for a drink. In the UK our standard power sockets can supply 240V at 13A allowing 3kW appliances to be plugged into any socket.
I've this unit for a while, and recently it started misbehaving when turned on. Sometimes it would work immediately and other times it would pause before making a slight pop noise and then working. Finally it just stopped working and a wisp of smoke came out of the switch.
It was easier to open than expected and revealed a simple, but very clever switch that latches in the on position, but can be reset by a bimetallic disk that is exposed to steam from the boiling water.
Initially I thought it was a custom switch just for the appliance, but it turns out that it may just be a standard kettle switch mechanism. The original one was made by Strix, a local manufacturer of kettle components, but the replacement was another brand.
In hindsight I now know that I could have got these switches from a variety of sellers, but sadly not a Strix original. It's important to note that some of the switches being sold on eBay are substandard. The contact strip can get hot enough to melt the plastic pin that is supposed to push it down to switch off, resulting in the kettle/cup-boiler continuing to run instead of switching off.
There's a reason that appliance manufacturers still use a British brand's switches. It's the only way to guarantee reliability.
If you have one of these Breville Hotcup units and use it a lot then I'd recommend getting a spare switch in advance. It's easy to change if you're technically inclined. (Make sure the kettle is not on the power base when working on it.)
A search for - Strix R4803 - may bring up the original component.
Alternately a search for - kettle switch - will find a variety of similar units.
Clones will not be up to the same quality/safety standard as an original Strix switch.
As always with these projects, you do it at your own risk. Make sure all power is isolated and try to source original components. If in doubt, just buy a complete new unit.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
I've this unit for a while, and recently it started misbehaving when turned on. Sometimes it would work immediately and other times it would pause before making a slight pop noise and then working. Finally it just stopped working and a wisp of smoke came out of the switch.
It was easier to open than expected and revealed a simple, but very clever switch that latches in the on position, but can be reset by a bimetallic disk that is exposed to steam from the boiling water.
Initially I thought it was a custom switch just for the appliance, but it turns out that it may just be a standard kettle switch mechanism. The original one was made by Strix, a local manufacturer of kettle components, but the replacement was another brand.
In hindsight I now know that I could have got these switches from a variety of sellers, but sadly not a Strix original. It's important to note that some of the switches being sold on eBay are substandard. The contact strip can get hot enough to melt the plastic pin that is supposed to push it down to switch off, resulting in the kettle/cup-boiler continuing to run instead of switching off.
There's a reason that appliance manufacturers still use a British brand's switches. It's the only way to guarantee reliability.
If you have one of these Breville Hotcup units and use it a lot then I'd recommend getting a spare switch in advance. It's easy to change if you're technically inclined. (Make sure the kettle is not on the power base when working on it.)
A search for - Strix R4803 - may bring up the original component.
Alternately a search for - kettle switch - will find a variety of similar units.
Clones will not be up to the same quality/safety standard as an original Strix switch.
As always with these projects, you do it at your own risk. Make sure all power is isolated and try to source original components. If in doubt, just buy a complete new unit.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Nice one. Enjoy a cuppa
Well for the past 8 months I have been meaning to order a switch.. finally have! soon the 1cup shall brew again!
Brilliant video Clive, i have just had mine go kaput on me, Great kettle that is, Thanks for the informative video!
Any idea how to fix the LEDs that glow and change colour as the kettle boils? Mine stopped working and it's hard to tell if it's on before it starts making noises.
Mmmm watching this because you mentioned it on your live stream – Steam and mains electricity, what could possibly go wrong? 🤣
Brill thanks exelent tutorial ❤
I wonder how much the fine would be in Australia for doing this yourself. Still $40K? Probably just buy another kettle then.
As well as the eBay seller you mentioned selling the switch there is another called skj2050. The description is identical apart from the price.
Important info from eBay listing (11/07/2022):- “Has your Breville VKJ142 kettle stopped going blue and isn’t working? First take out the original switch and test it with a multimeter: set the meter to ohms or continuity (bleep function) then with the two leads touch each spade connector and try the switch to see if its working on and off. If you get nothing your switch is dead (open circuit). If the contacts are melted together your boiler is faulty. This may mean your kettle has other problems apart from the switch. Please note: If your new switch melts the contacts it means the boiler is faulty and needs descaling. Please descale your kettle before fitting the new switch as too much calcium on the heating element will kill the new switch fast by increasing the current across the contacts. I descaled my kettle by filling the kettle then adding a sachet of washing machine descaling powder. Next boil a cup into a pyrex jug, as it descales the boiler the water will get frothy and white. Boil a few times until it goes clear then rinse the kettle with clean water then boil it another 5 times to be sure it’s clean and smells good.”
Bit of heatshrink and solder the wires on thru the holes in switch, the original terminals look very corroded
Clive, Clive, Clive. I thought better of you. A Chinise water heater would do the exact same thing (if not 10x faster and more exciting) for half of the price and possibly the AMAZING chance of burning your house down and giving you some sort of food poisoning from the black water it creates🙄🤚
I just got a bloody great belt from mine. 220v between the switch and earth. Tripped my RCD