The smaller lamp bases often make it hard to fit decent drive circuitry into an LED lamp. Many manufacturers skimp by just having a low voltage ceramic capacitor and rectifier. But Philips have put some very interesting circuitry into this lamp.
Here's a link to the original Dubai lamp teardown:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klaJqofCsu4
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Here's a link to the original Dubai lamp teardown:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klaJqofCsu4
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Is not a big secret is just a high voltage multiplier like those mosquito killer device incorporated on it
I have a 2w led in my bedroom that has been running 24/7 for 10+ years. Not bright, but at least i can see. I am disabled. Need to see where I am going at night.
You leave on 2 table lamps with 2 different kind of bulbs. You wait to see which type of bulb burns out first after a while and how long it takes for each one.
Would you consider this example to be a scientific experiment ?
If we copied the design and got some place like JLPCB to build knockoffs, could we sell them for a price that people rewound be willing to pay and that would make it worth our while?
Are there any small/low cost improvements that could be made?
PLEASE TRY METHYLATED SPIRITS for taking apart the glass bulbs!!! Splashing it around for a couple mins weakens the epoxy and it'll twist off
I bought such a lamp (but for E27 socket) in the Netherlands several years ago. It was costly, IIRC almost 20 EUR. I expected it to last many years but it failed after a few months and I used it for less than 1 hour per day. I planned to disassemble it but I put it somewhere and cannot find it.
BIG ARES
Those bulbs with string led filimants are a COMPLETE scam. They said it lasts 13 years on the package but only lasted 3.75 years for me
Funny that it must be by order of the king that they finally make an efficient bulb that lasts.
I just realized that natural gas forced into tubular cylindrical flames would have the same result in a larger size would be insane efficiency. Thank you Clive
🤘😎🤘❤️
I think it's insane that you say "it is how it is" and no one responds. Are we in a program??
Honestly Clive, this should be brought to the top of everyone's existence. I love you man.
Shouldn't the voltage be something like 308 volt (220 V ×1 ,4) after the bridge rectifier?
I'd say 3000k is optimal if you plan to have any sort of decent brightness. 2700 is too yellow. In living rooms, bedrooms and such. In the kitchen 4000k is fine.
Often hard to find 3000K unfortunately. And I have yet to find any in the filament style, for which manufacturers seem to totally neglect it. (I'm not in Dubai)
Does an LED 'filament" need to be in a bulb under vacuum? I didn't hear any fshhhh when you took the bulb apart.
This is an interesting bulb Big Clive, quite a bit of thought along with trial and error must must have been put into making all that circuitry fit into a candelabra base.
I suspect there was a fair amount of trial designs proposed before the customer accepted this design. Normally, if you place a capacitor across the LED string to keep a small amount of current flowing during the valleys of the sinewave, the flicker is not objectionable to the average person. However, this design in my analysis, does have some modulated intensity because the bulk filter cap is not large enough to keep the LED current from declining during the valleys, although the intensity probably varies less than an incandescent bulb.
What voltage is this bulb designed to run on? With the 249 volts of AC input, I estimate the zener is probably conducting during the peaks of the sinewave. My best guess is about 250 volts peak on the bulk filter cap with 30 volts Vp-p of ripple. I am guessing the zener is used to protect the FET, for either over voltage or dissipation.
I do see a catastrophic design error with this bulb. If the bipolar or FET are slow to react to a voltage surge, the base-emitter junction will become the primary path for high current. The bipolar will short, which will signal the FET to draw infinite current, blowing out the FET and LEDs. If you place a 100 ohm resistor in series with the base, it stops this sneak path.
I find it interesting how the emphasis was only placed upon power consumption of the bulb at the socket but, really failed in the attempt because, the power factor is so poor. With this power factor, at the power station, it will likely take about 7 watts to drive the bulb. Most of the power will be wasted in the power lines transmitting 50 Hz harmonics into the air.
I REALLY DISLIKE using a capacitor for a dropping resistor. In addition to the poor power factor, it limits the bulb to only being run from low distortion sinewave power at an exact frequency. This also makes the bulbs very susceptible to damage from voltage spikes.