Well this turned out bad! I spent a lot of time deliberating on what sort of lights to get for my workbench that would provide good working light and also work well with a camera. I chose two 20W cold white floodlights for the intensity and the high colour temperature.
The lights arrived and I decided to do a video showing the insides and it all went wrong from there.
These "20W" lights contain a 10W power supply and the LED array looks like it has smaller chips than usual. Or in other words, the light is not 20W at all. Worse still was that some other 10W lights I got at the same time are actually around 4W actual power and appear to have a generic 3W power supply for 3 x 1W LEDs in them as the 3x3 array of LEDs in the 10W LED is wired as a series parallel array of 3x3 giving a forward voltage of about 9V.
Then there's the systematic lack of an earth connection in them all, with the 20W lights actually gluing the earth ring crimp out of sight under the 10W power supply. Both the 20W lights had shards of sharp glass from the removal of the corners of the front glass inside.
Just an absolute shambles. I don't know if it's just cost economy or if they discovered that the casings couldn't dissipate the heat properly and were having LED/PSU issues.
But I've fitted new flexes, earthed them and mounted them and even at 10W the light is perfectly acceptable. And they certainly run cool!
The lights arrived and I decided to do a video showing the insides and it all went wrong from there.
These "20W" lights contain a 10W power supply and the LED array looks like it has smaller chips than usual. Or in other words, the light is not 20W at all. Worse still was that some other 10W lights I got at the same time are actually around 4W actual power and appear to have a generic 3W power supply for 3 x 1W LEDs in them as the 3x3 array of LEDs in the 10W LED is wired as a series parallel array of 3x3 giving a forward voltage of about 9V.
Then there's the systematic lack of an earth connection in them all, with the 20W lights actually gluing the earth ring crimp out of sight under the 10W power supply. Both the 20W lights had shards of sharp glass from the removal of the corners of the front glass inside.
Just an absolute shambles. I don't know if it's just cost economy or if they discovered that the casings couldn't dissipate the heat properly and were having LED/PSU issues.
But I've fitted new flexes, earthed them and mounted them and even at 10W the light is perfectly acceptable. And they certainly run cool!
so another fake earthed light fitting
plus it likely has no continuity to the chassis as the glue is an insulator
hey china the reason you have to push crap through secondary uncertified sources is literally the lack of that green wire having a connection to the case
even in the usa anything outdoor or otherwise permanent requires that wire be connected to the grounding rod jammed into the ground
if at any point along the way you can't take a battery and send a test voltage all the way back from the rod to the device it fails
all you had to do was connect a single screw crimp to the case and you would be able to have a massive market of customers
the cost of a single screw is eating into profits and that is all on you
I had 49 years in the electrical trade before I retired and I thought my range of experience was fairly diverse. I think you may have an edge on me. I love your work please keep it up.
Hamoci
I will buy these for filming applications as well.
I searched up Bench appearo how
Thanks for getting ripped off so we don’t have to! What a crap deal…
Wattage is an old bulb measurement, Lumines, lux, or foot candles you get more light from less wattage with LEDs
Just to be clear this type of thing is still going on. I recently purchased some LED bulbs to replace some tiny 9G halogen lamps. I was concerned that the new LED bulbs wouldn't physically fit so I chose the smallest 5 watt equivalent lights I could. When they arrived I was pleased that they physically fitted into the housings but a little disappointed in the light output.When I tested them on a power metre they read 1.5 Watts. After a partial refund I ordered the largest 5 watt LED bulbs I thought would fit my purpose. These turned out to have an output of 3 Watts.
Looking back on these I suspect they put a lower wattage driver in them because of lower quality LEDs they know that can't be run at their intended rating since a low watt driver can't be that much cheaper overall.
At least it has a proper ballast. I just got ripped off by banggood. I ordered some flicker free 5w e14 led lights and they flicker at 25Hz with a very short duty cycle.
cant u use the 20w driver from the green to drive the white chip ? but then again u only have 1 green
Buy a 50w led and a 50w driver and install inside.
Those are Chineese Watts !!!