I Managed to grab one of the LED flashlights that goes with the park side or little um, 12 volt battery system. So you snap the battery in and I was expecting maybe to have multiple identities. No, it's literally I Click on, click off switch and the power dissipation of this is at 12 volts, 114 milliamps so it's 1.4 Watts 9 volts, 125 milliamps, 1.1 Watt and at six volts just before it cuts out. although it would cut out earlier with the battery protective circuitry, it was measured 164 milliamps at one Watts So roughly 1 to 1.5 Watts It's not really pushing this typical one to three watt style.

LED too hard. It does have a battery indicator when it's on. it's a very faint batch indicator. You can't even see the battery indicator.

Let's Zoom down this little bit. Can you see the battery indicator there? Super faint and it is just passive LEDs and resistors and Xenos or something like that because it does gradually. Fade Out as you turn the voltage down because I put it on the bench power supply to find out. Okay, enough of that.

Let's unplug the battery and open it up. noting that there is a staple in here to actually grip this end of the case together. fairly common in some power tools. Very annoying because it's usually quite hard to get out.

Other than that, there are what appear to be five screws, so we'll take the screws out. then I'll attempt to get that staple out. Can't tell how easy it's going to come out I Don't know if it latches in I would expect it to have some sort of latching effect. I Was kind of expecting this to have a clicky button with the multiple intensity settings.

On a plus note, because it's not got Active Electronics It means that the it's not going to pose that slight quiescent current draw on the battery. not that there is much of a quiescent current draw. The battery itself has active circuit Trainer I've opened those before and it's got charge control circuitry built in and also the over discharge protection. This screw is the one that's going to be a nuisance.

It's trying to push the case apart or is that the staple that's kind of doing that? Not sure. Yeah, this is not coming quite easily. right too? Let's take a look at the staple. I should get another screwdriver and I shall try and push that stable up then hand.

That ain't happening either. It does look as though it's kind of splayed out. so I wonder if there's a locking mechanism? Is it being not being helped with the fact? That should maybe help it, but the fact is splayed apart by that screw that has decided to grip on the way out? This isn't promising. This does look as though it's uh, being quite tight.

Long nose plumbers. Let's grab it and pull it. This is not coming out easily. Let's try beefier pliers.

This is probably making like popping clicking noise over the effort to get it apart. The microphone sometimes exaggerates the pops and clicks because it can't really react in time. How are we doing? Do we still have to get this screw out? This has not gone well, has it? But this is a real tear down. It's not rehearsed in any way, right? This comes apart and reveals.

Oh, there's a fairer amount all the circuit juice and one board. So there's a clicky switch. There's an inductor. There is a little chip hiding under there.

They've helpfully put goo under it, which is good from a stream Leaf perspective, but terrible from a reverse engineering perspective. Okay, right, tell you what. I'll take a picture of this and then we can explore it and see what's involved. One moment.

please. Reverse engineering is complete. Let's explore. and I got Deja Vu Ask me you if you saw the recent MR16 tear Down video because it's very similar circuitry.

It appears to be uh LED driver chip designed for 12 volt type systems, which makes sense given this is powered by 12 volts. Here's a switch. It's a straight on off switch. There is a smooth capacitor across the output.

Just for stability of the circuit, we have the switching chip. It's little 47 micro Henry inductor. We have a snubber across the inductor to zero volt uh, actually kind of across inductor and the switch in the chip presumably for protection. Uh 20 Ohm resistor and capacitor.

We have the scent resistors that set the current through the LED and with the little flyback diode, the Freewheel diode that actually makes the circuit much more efficient. The rest of the circuitry over here is uh, just purely those little red, yellow, and green uh, battery status indicators which are very, very primitive indeed. And you may notice there's a little capacitor hidden under here. Quite tricky to actually even break through this glue.

I Was trying to remove the glue. This is that horrible sticky glue that does not remove easily. But anyway, let's go straight to their schematic and explore. Uh, things worth noting.

Oh, here, a couple of diodes called WC that's more or less it. Not an awful lot. Oh, and one last thing. this link here that may be designed for a position for a ferrite beat or something.

although it's not marked as such, but it was in a previous circuit we looked at. let's get close to this. I'll apologize in advance of that light. something goes into disco mode.

It's done it twice recently. just a brief flash. I Think the purse plan is feeling, probably capacitor. Anyway, here is with the battery connect.

there is the on off switch. There is the 220 microfired capacitor. Then there is the battery level detection circuit, which is basically a series of voltage dividers with an LED across one of the divider resistors and then a couple of zeners to actually scale up so it has to be quite a high voltage before the green will light almost to filled 12 volts. It's a Gallium Arsenite, Gallium Phosphide green.

It's the old school green I think uh, just provide to provide a nice, stable, predictable low voltage. Makes it very diminal. Um, again, we've got a zero diode and the divider with different resistor values to the yellow and then for the red. Since it's right at the very end of the scale, they've not got the Zener diode.

It's just straight to a divider with quite a high value resistor. Here, it's very dim, but I suppose it does the job. Here is the mysterious Et6115 chip. Uh, I Found a data sheet for that, but the data sheet literally just had a picture of the pin out and that was it.

No data. I Get the film. This is a clone of a very standard range of chips, and the circuitry is very standard too. There are two current sense resistors 0.91 and 0.68 ohm, giving a total in parallel of a 0.4 Ohms.

You can hack this if you want to reduce the intensity of the LED here, and theoretically you could modify those resistor values or just chop one out. but having said that, it is only about 1 to 1.5 Watts so it's not that high. Anyway, there's a little capacitor across it I Measured that as 129. a winning circuit, but that is not a great way to measure it.

and this one also measures 120 Nano which means uh, that you know it's not guaranteed that a good reading of those. they'd have to be taking a circuit to be measured. The little inductor here was where is it? 47 micro Henry 47 micro Henry And there is a mysterious link component. There's a link in it that could have been for a ferrite bead or it could be a resistor.

but there is a shock you diode And the idea is that when this turns on, current starts flowing through the resistors and through the LED. But it's limited by the building up magnetic field in this inductor. Once it reaches a certain threshold set by the voltage measured across these resistors, it turns off and the magnetic field collapses and goes the opposite priority. And then it actually Powers the LED via the collapsing field via this diode for extra efficiency.

And this little snubber down here is presumably to protect against. uh, the the switching device that goes between these connections from damage from the back. EMF Spike Um, in the brief moment before this shot get out turns on things worth mentioning. It uses the standard Luxion Star style: LED Heatsink with no.

It's basically it's an LED plate with the hyper LED in it, but with no actual extra heatsink and that's all right. In the region of about one watt, it's not too bad, but going higher it wouldn't be so good. I say locks in Star Lux In developed that format and then got ripped off solid by everybody as the Chinese are want to do and other things worth mentioning. Uh, you could change the color of the LED if you want.

You could change it to a infrared LED or a red one if you wanted. sort of like that. I Was going to say astrology Again, astronomy where you don't like, you don't want to affect your vision too much by using a broad spectrum. Let's use the red, but it would also be very useful with an UltraViolet the near UV LED For a mechanic to actually search for leaks with a very pinpointed ultraviolet light because you've got the Tracer dies in refrigerant and uh, current.

but that is it. The construction is basic, but you know what? Maybe that's a good thing. Most of the circuitry seems to be for the very crude Um battery level indicator, but on the wall once you've opened it up, there's that horrible little label. This dark matte label that obscures the red green blue.

LEDs Um, but I'll just stick that there, but it's kind of openable with a bit of effort noting that little uh pin. that little sort of staple here and it is a hackable. It's uh, modifiable. You could change it to warm my LED if you wanted you can.

You can pack it in many ways. Um, and that makes it quite useful now. I'm guessing that this is not just manufactured for the Parkside brand I'm guessing it's going to be the same soccer train many other ones because it seems to become manufacturers that manufacture a lot of these things. But there we have it.

This one in particular was the little Parkside 12 volt LED flashlight or torch.