I've been using the original laundry equipment that was in this house when I moved in and it was already giving issues. The main issue was the drum bearing which was very loose and made a lot of noise in use. It also leaked at the bearing when I caused huge foamy incidents.
This new machine is my preferred brand of laundry equipment. Indesit. Just plain mass produced machines that are reliable by virtue of the higher sales volume meaning that all the bugs get ironed out quickly, and at a lower profit they don't want too much comeback.
Here's a list of the machine's components, what they do and the likely problems. It's very easy to get spare parts online these days, so fixing a machine yourself is usually a good option. Just be extra careful with making sure the machine is unplugged completely when you are working on it. The mix of water, cramped spaces, large areas of grounded metal and exposed electrical connections pose a significant shock hazard.
The mains inlet and filter. Just a means of bringing the mains into the unit and providing electrical noise filtering at that point. Most common mode of failure is to start causing earth leakage issues or just blow the mains fuse repeatedly. Easy to swap in the rare instance it fails.
The controller. These used to be horrendously complex mechanical cam switches, but now they are a very standard little control computer incorporating a motor drive and switching facilities for the solenoid water valves and door lock, plus various sensor inputs. The main difference between different models is the software that allows extra (mostly useless) features in "luxury" models. Main failure mode is water damage or just age related failure. These are one of the most expensive components, but for older machines can often be sourced second hand on eBay. Component level repairs may be possible.
The control interface. This is just a remote button, knob and LED array that communicates with the controller via a serial interface. Main failure mode is water damage, particularly if it gets into a button. Usually repairable after disassembling and cleaning.
Door interlock. This is one of the most failure prone devices as it can be damaged by pulling the door hard while locked or slamming it. The unit usually contains a PTC thermistor block that heats up when power is applied and causes the bimetallic lock to operate. The main control power for the machine also goes through the lock so the motor can't run or the unit fill with water while the door is not properly locked. Easy to source online and change. The use of a thermal mechanism makes it very simple and also gives an automatic door-release time delay when the machine is turned off.
Liquid level sensor. This is a diaphragm switch coupled to the drainage pipe by a length of hose. As the water level rises the pressure of the air in the tube activates various level switches. Most common failure mode is failure to detect water level. Easy to change.
Water solenoid valves. These tend to fail open circuit and the machine will not fill properly. You can get a replacement assembly, or just a replacement coil and carefully lever the original one off to slide the new one on.
Motor. The earlier machines used a universal motor with carbon brushes onto a commutator. The brushes are prone to wear over time and can be replaced. The new motors seem to be polyphase motors with no commutator. The one in this machine is impressively small and quiet. If a motor burns out it's a tricky situation as the controller may be damaged or may itself have damaged the motor. The hardest bit about changing the motor is getting the belt on and off. You have to ride it round the drum pulley. If an old belt starts slipping it can make a squealing noise. You can get spare belts online.
Heater. This is used to either fully heat the water, or in machines with a hot and cold water supply it boosts the temperature if needed. Most common failure mode is intermittent tripping of the RCD/GFI when the heater comes on. Spares are available online and fairly straightforward to fit.
Drain pump. Used to pump the water out of the drum. Most common failure is getting blocked. On most machines the lower front panel can be popped off to expose a filter trap that can be unscrewed to clean it out. Be aware that any water in the drum will come out when you unscrew it! The pumps are pretty reliable electrically, but spares are again available online.
The modern machines are so simple and minimalist inside that repairing them is usually straightforward. Just make sure you get the right component by noting the exact make and model of your machine.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This new machine is my preferred brand of laundry equipment. Indesit. Just plain mass produced machines that are reliable by virtue of the higher sales volume meaning that all the bugs get ironed out quickly, and at a lower profit they don't want too much comeback.
Here's a list of the machine's components, what they do and the likely problems. It's very easy to get spare parts online these days, so fixing a machine yourself is usually a good option. Just be extra careful with making sure the machine is unplugged completely when you are working on it. The mix of water, cramped spaces, large areas of grounded metal and exposed electrical connections pose a significant shock hazard.
The mains inlet and filter. Just a means of bringing the mains into the unit and providing electrical noise filtering at that point. Most common mode of failure is to start causing earth leakage issues or just blow the mains fuse repeatedly. Easy to swap in the rare instance it fails.
The controller. These used to be horrendously complex mechanical cam switches, but now they are a very standard little control computer incorporating a motor drive and switching facilities for the solenoid water valves and door lock, plus various sensor inputs. The main difference between different models is the software that allows extra (mostly useless) features in "luxury" models. Main failure mode is water damage or just age related failure. These are one of the most expensive components, but for older machines can often be sourced second hand on eBay. Component level repairs may be possible.
The control interface. This is just a remote button, knob and LED array that communicates with the controller via a serial interface. Main failure mode is water damage, particularly if it gets into a button. Usually repairable after disassembling and cleaning.
Door interlock. This is one of the most failure prone devices as it can be damaged by pulling the door hard while locked or slamming it. The unit usually contains a PTC thermistor block that heats up when power is applied and causes the bimetallic lock to operate. The main control power for the machine also goes through the lock so the motor can't run or the unit fill with water while the door is not properly locked. Easy to source online and change. The use of a thermal mechanism makes it very simple and also gives an automatic door-release time delay when the machine is turned off.
Liquid level sensor. This is a diaphragm switch coupled to the drainage pipe by a length of hose. As the water level rises the pressure of the air in the tube activates various level switches. Most common failure mode is failure to detect water level. Easy to change.
Water solenoid valves. These tend to fail open circuit and the machine will not fill properly. You can get a replacement assembly, or just a replacement coil and carefully lever the original one off to slide the new one on.
Motor. The earlier machines used a universal motor with carbon brushes onto a commutator. The brushes are prone to wear over time and can be replaced. The new motors seem to be polyphase motors with no commutator. The one in this machine is impressively small and quiet. If a motor burns out it's a tricky situation as the controller may be damaged or may itself have damaged the motor. The hardest bit about changing the motor is getting the belt on and off. You have to ride it round the drum pulley. If an old belt starts slipping it can make a squealing noise. You can get spare belts online.
Heater. This is used to either fully heat the water, or in machines with a hot and cold water supply it boosts the temperature if needed. Most common failure mode is intermittent tripping of the RCD/GFI when the heater comes on. Spares are available online and fairly straightforward to fit.
Drain pump. Used to pump the water out of the drum. Most common failure is getting blocked. On most machines the lower front panel can be popped off to expose a filter trap that can be unscrewed to clean it out. Be aware that any water in the drum will come out when you unscrew it! The pumps are pretty reliable electrically, but spares are again available online.
The modern machines are so simple and minimalist inside that repairing them is usually straightforward. Just make sure you get the right component by noting the exact make and model of your machine.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
Have you heard of the Keymatic washing machine by Hoover? You have to insert a physical card to select rhe wash cycle – its fascinating and I've spent some time unpicking whay the notches mean but no idea exactly how it works inside. Might be an interesting one!
This video was interesting to me because just a couple weeks ago I repaired my own machine from 2007. What happened was the rubber hose connecting the soap compartment to the barrel had turned brittle and cracked (partly due to age but I suspect the high concentration of soap somehow degraded the rubber). The VFD control module for the motor was located at the bottom of the machine below where that hose is so water was dripping onto the module. The result of that was that the drum would spin fine for the first part of the cycle, but after a while the drum would barely move back and fourth like it was trying to move but couldn't. What happened was the soapy water got into the module and ate away some of the solder mask at the bottom of the board where the water was sitting, causing the current to flow to ground (earth) instead of to the motor, and since there was no GFCI/RCD, no safety devices were tripped. The fix was easy enough, I replaced the hose with an OEM one because they still sell it ($50USD for a piece of rubber! Still cheaper than a new machine though) and applied some solder and clear nail polish to the parts of the board where the solder mask was missing. Other than that slight mishap it still works great which is pretty cool considering its age. Also I don't know about in your machine, but in mine, the module at the bottom is just a VFD control for the motor, and all the "brains" of the machine are on the front control panel.
Paul Carlson showed us how to replace the heater in his washing machine. He described how to remove the belt and the drum to access the heater.
Love watching your video's Clive, but they've been cold fill for years, another so called green idea, they must think there are fairies in the drum heating the water with magic dust. Lol
Hey i have the same machine what the heck
Built to a price and it shows. In the late 1980s, however, there was one brand of washing machine whose drive pulley was merely a tin can filled with concrete, so they have made worse before.
Disassemble before use…I like that policy!
If it doesn't work after reassembly it must be the manufacturers fault, because you put it back together exactly the way you got it!
He takes to bits…. A fucking washing machine. Why didn't you do this on the legendary work bench? Surely it would fit?
man those nails are disturbing… put a glove on, I need to focus on the clip not on the nails :>
They aren't gas struts they are felt washers with a very thick grease on them.
„Power and data“?
Is WAN now a shortcut for Washer Area Network?
I‘m sure you are aware of the death of the LNC/TNY chips and that the so-called crappy electronics is often dead because of the smps chip not really protected against surges. But easy to fix.
BTW, no different situation with the more expensive brands.
This whole design is very similar to the Whirlpool/Maytag units I service at work. Interesting how everyone pretty much uses the same design now. Odd that it's not a direct drive though.
Low budget machine. AEG are a great brand in the uk
Take a 10 year old Meile machine apart and spot the difference. Our Meile machine told us it had water inside (it has a float operated switch in the base). Indeed it did have a leak and is an easy fix. I was very pleased to take off the top cover and find a wiring diagram and parts diagram folded up and clipped inside the machine. There are also no sharp edges that the cheap machines have everywhere to slice your fingers to bits. The quality is evident. Cheers. Rob
I do know that the hot water pump and the main drive motor in a lot of these new washers share casement with the extruded chasis of the washer itself and are usually proprietary in fitment specific to individual models..
Makes part scrapping/replacement almost useless.