In a fairly recent video, I Took a look at this little keychain flashlight. a pink version of this which doesn't just have the normal LED in the front, but it has the LEDs on the side for extra features and it was quite interesting. Constructions worth mentioning: The Lithium cellness tested at 200 milliamp hour. this is the Big Daddy This is the EDC flashlight model V3 900 Lumens can't really test that includes a battery which is built-in battery, which is nice because it is rechargeable under the battery it claims is 500 milliamp hour.

When we take a look at this one, it's got a sort of similar vibe to it. It's got the charging lead, it's got the little keychain clip, and then it's got the light itself. Let's put this out the way and then Zoom down so we can see this better. I should just shoved that over there.

So I shall show you the modes. This has the USB charging port in the back. There is the 500 milliamp hour cell in the back. It does look quite sizeable.

This is good. So it has a super Turbo mode. If you press and hold, it's got two buttons, one the lightning bolt on it and one with the power button symbol. And if you press and hold the power button symbol, it goes to super turbo mode but only briefly.

and it's just as well because it is driving LEDs hard. I can feel the heat from the light coming off that, but if you press it, um, double twice. It goes into the first of the normal modes which is continuous which is the high level. Then you press again, goes to medium level, low level, and then just super low level for extra long battery life when things are desperate and then goes back to the high level.

If you want to turn it off, you press and hold. This is one of these things about these because they've got so much functionality just in a couple of buttons, it becomes a bit cryptic how to use them. The same applies to this here. If you press the button briefly, it does give you a batch indication.

it just lights the little light on the side. But if you double click it, it goes into flashing red mode. How useful? Uh, click again. it goes into place more.

That's also a bit tricky then useful, white mode, and then ultraviolet mode and it's not bad. You can actually see the red phosphor growing for that one and then it goes back to the start of that. To turn it off, you double click again. No.

You actually press and hold it. See. That's what I mean. It's so complicated.

Anyway, how does this come apart? That's what we want to know. Is it glued together? This is on the screen. This one's unscrewing. Is this going to be a clamshell type? Arrangement Or are there going to be screws? There could be lenses.

Well, there's a little there ceiling glass. Grommet. There is it going to peel apart at this? I'm not sure how this comes apart. I may have to pause.

Oh, you know what? I have a horrible feeling it's going to be destructive because I'm seeing a difference in color between the front assembly and the uh, the body of it. So I'm wondering if it slides out but that is physically clicked in the end and I shall try. I Shall do. I Can these lenses aren't coming out? Where's the spudger? Let's see how destructive this gets.

I'll destroy mines so you don't have to destroy yours? No, that's not not working Is it? so? Is this what is? Um, is it scrunching? It's scrunching slightly. That's the side of the lithium cell. Maybe I shouldn't be stabbing it in there. The spider is definitely getting in there, but I think it's glued.

I Think it's going to be very destructive. Yeah, you're going to basically watch an expensive little light. Well, it's not super expensive. It's not as expensive as the original.

I Think this is going to be very destructive and this is not going to go together again afterwards. Nope. I'm going to have to grab if this gets too long. I Shall just pause.

Let's try grabbing it and open it like a vape. Well, that's promising. The lenses are coming out now. Yeah, opening it like a vape might be the way to do it.

Ah, here we go. So that's how you do it. Grab it of the flowers and pull it off. Now we've got this stick out.

Grab it with the pardon There said that little bit of circuit board. Well, let's pull the little rubber bun out of the USBC port and then I'll try and just drag this out without shorting anything excessively. Oh, is this going to work? Hold on. Is this going to be trapped by these switches again because the previous one was? Or do these come out separately? Lots of flashing lights.

These buttons are kind of captive. Am I going to be able to use if I lift these out. This is not how you're supposed to take this apart I don't think you're supposed to take it apart at home, but that's okay. This channel is all about taking things apart.

Let's see if we can push it out by getting a screwdriver behind the switch. Isn't pushing? No, that's not gonna either. Is there something I don't know about? Is there a little carrier? Maybe this magnet hides a screw or something? I think I'm gonna have to pause and I'll let you know how it came out afterwards one moment. please and resume.

It turns out that I just uh, didn't try hard enough. Clearly getting this out, it does just slide out. I Looked at the back with a flashlight see if I could see a screw in there. There wasn't a screw so all I did was since I'd lifted the buttons off already I got a screwdriver and just gently push the switch again and the circuit board slid out.

Once it has slid out, there is a wrap basically a sticky label that's not at the back taken off that is literally just put around like this to give it a nice of image inside the case and that comes off to reveal the 500 milliamp hour cell which is stuck onto the back of this with a bit of tape and it is uh, marked 500 milliamp hour. It is a 602535 six millimeters thick, 25 millimeters wide by 35 millimeter long and it Taps on to a couple of connections here. Um, and there's this sticky pad to hold it in place. It's sandwiches right between the hot LEDs but but with a bit of space and the connector itself, it's quite a snug fit.

It's worth mentioning the battery itself has protection on it. Um, the circuitry itself. Oh, also worth mentioning before going to the soccer trip, the LED circuit board on the end has heat dissipation rings around LEDs and when it's assembled, these little brass heat sinks are basically pressed onto those. the lenses go inside the heat sinks in this little rubber O-rings that are pressed on by the outer metal cap that theoretically should make that fairly water resilient.

but having said that, the seam around here where it just Clips on is possibly going to Wick water in. but anyway, let's take a look at the circuitry I shall Zoom down in this so we can explore it. The battery comes on in the back here and there is an A1 Shb mosfet as battery polarity protection so if you connect the battery the wrong way around, it doesn't blow up the chip and stuff like that mainly to protect the chip I'm guessing and possibly the little charge chip I guess maybe they've initiate the factory with them being swapped around? Not really sure, but uh, beyond that it's protected. Um, however, the one bit that isn't protected the positive from the battery goes straight out to LEDs the high power LEDs but not these ones.

Over here, there is a LPS Bmch2 charge control chip which has the identical pinouter tp4057 with the programming resistor, a couple of capacitors. There's a USB port. There is no resistor arrangement to tell a smart charger to say put out power. so if the this unit doesn't charge, if you plug it into a smart charger, plug it into a Dom charger and it should charge.

Uh, the four LEDs each has its own transistor but no current limiting resistor. Each of these LEDs has two little chips inside it for power I guess. and these are standard Npn transistors with a 10K resistor to the base of each direct from the chip. So potentially these transistors are acting as a resistors effect with the limits of the current, but the current through each of these LEDs is roughly 100 milliamps.

Uh, there's a chip. It gets this power supply with a little Uh 10 Ohm resistor and capacitor to provide a filter I'll showing that in schematic: a couple of buttons uh indicator LED for charging status and then the mosfet and 8006 for switching the output. LEDs and it's got a 1K series resistor to the the gate and the 10K pull-down resistor for stability. Uh, what else can I mention here? Not much, right? Let's go on to the schematic, which well, I basically described it.

haven't I I'll give you the currents as well. Oh I Had to turn the power supply up quite a bit to get enough current. Let's go ahead and even closer because that that can get closer. Bird Song Outside Even though it's very early in the morning, here's a USB Supply it uh goes to the Tp4057 our lookalike Tp457.

It has a programming resistor with 2K7 so that's a fair low current I have 300 milliamps or so I'd guess for that and it's got a couple of decoupling capacitors either side. There's the Uh Battery Protection Transistor which has this gate tied to the zero volt rail and the connection is a P channel. so the positive is actually tied up to the battery and then that's down to the circuitry. It treats this as the negative side and uh, what that means is if you connect the polarity the battery the wrong way around, the mosfet simply won't turn on.

It won't be harmed. Um, it's very simple, but one connection to the battery is taken off and it's taken over to directly to the super high power LEDs And by super high power I mean scorching out LEDs There's a protection module on the batch itself. there's a little decoupling circuit. there's a 10 Ohm resistor on the capacitor probably 100 nanofarad could be wrong mystery chip as they always are and two signals come from the charge chip current sense: uh, the charge control indication.

It goes low to show its charging and a standby. As for standby and that basically when the Uh chip gets those signals, it switches these LEDs and flashes the red and then goes constant green just to show it's charged. and it shows status indication and stuff like that. The two buttons go to the Zero Volt rail those LEDs just have one common 1K resistor and then we've got four sections like this: the Y1 transistor going to the Zero Volt rail The Fairly High Current: Uh, LED that these are the standard little ones down the side that are being run at 100 milliamps which is monstrous and not help.

They're in a smoky colored case that just seems so inefficient because it's good to attenuate the light output. It's like a neutral filter on them, but there's a 10K resistor going to the base of these transistors and that basically will limit the current to the base. And because the transistor multiplies that current the traditional type of transistor, it means that the LED is going to be current limited by this transistor. But look of it.

there's the mosfet that's switching the outputs and it's an e006 10K Pildo resistor a 1K resistor from the chip and then it drives the two LEDs with no resistors going straight to the battery. Positive connection there. So fairly straightforward. Now, Currents: I Took a little note of the currents.

Uh, when you hold the button and it goes to super Turbo mode, let me demonstrate Super Turbo Mode Hold the button. Super Turbo Mode: Very bright. It's two amps that's quite a lot at 4.2 volts At the house setting, it was 660 milliamp, medium, 140, low, 67 and then the long run. The sort of basically speaking if I turn it onto by double clicking it.

That's the high Medium low and then super low current. Just basically for low standby use just for a very long battery runtime. That's 13 milliamps. so it's going to give a decent run time off the batteries.

Uh, all the other LEDs red flashing. It's a 50 50 cycle. roughly 50 milliamps. The piece is roughly alternating 50 50.

So it was about 90 milliamps I measured. But basically speaking to all intense purposes, these LEDs here are all being driven at 100 milliamps and that is it. Anything else worth seeing about that Not really. It's an interesting enough light.

It's quite unusual. They've skimped. they've cheated with the Uh components by not putting resistors and series of LEDs, But having said that, they maybe they just thought, you know well, might as well double up with these transistors. It's a bit of a haphazard way of regulating the current through them, and that is quite.

You know. I'm guessing they just rely on the fact that the these LEDs uh long press for turning off these LEDs will have a fairly High forward voltage. or maybe the current. The battery itself will limit the current.

Um, just when they're being run absolutely full-on All the rest of them tends to controls by pulsive modulations, so it's based on that. sort of, you know, unlimited current just by the voltage crossed LEDs going high and the circuit impedance. That's it. It's an interesting little light.

It's functional. It's got a decent capacity battery. I'm not sure along the light, the LEDs would last running, even at 600 milliamps. Um, because I Suppose that's roughly.

Yeah, it's about one more each. roughly. Um, but yeah. Interesting little note.

A generic lookalikey clone of others. It'd be interesting to take apart some of the decent quality ones, but that is it. Uh, interesting and worthy. Chunky little light.