This cube formed part of my first order from Temu (not a sponsor) who did actually ship the stuff to this little island in the Irish Sea via Royal Mail.
When the package arrived this part was making an ominous rattling noise, as the motor and disk assembly had come adrift during transport. It really needs a different glue, since hot-melt doesn't stick well to waxy plastics.
To remove the cube cover, drizzle some isopropyl alcohol - which is also called isopropanol and rubbing alcohol - down the sides of the cube where it enters the wooden base. Isopropyl alcohol releases the bond of hot melt glue quickly. Once the cube is off you can re-glue the motor assembly in. But you do have the option of removing the PCB, replacing it with a bit of aluminium as a heatsink and adding your own choice of higher power single colour LED with a suitable resistor.
The four other LED positions on the PCB are all in parallel with the one in the middle to allow for other LED placement options.
This unit produces a nice effect, and it has a handmade feel to it due to the manual assembly of the cube section from squares of rippled plastic.
These type of lights are often worth buying just for the motor, ripple disk and the other rippled plastic panels.
I got it from this listing if it is still there:-
https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099515492353
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
When the package arrived this part was making an ominous rattling noise, as the motor and disk assembly had come adrift during transport. It really needs a different glue, since hot-melt doesn't stick well to waxy plastics.
To remove the cube cover, drizzle some isopropyl alcohol - which is also called isopropanol and rubbing alcohol - down the sides of the cube where it enters the wooden base. Isopropyl alcohol releases the bond of hot melt glue quickly. Once the cube is off you can re-glue the motor assembly in. But you do have the option of removing the PCB, replacing it with a bit of aluminium as a heatsink and adding your own choice of higher power single colour LED with a suitable resistor.
The four other LED positions on the PCB are all in parallel with the one in the middle to allow for other LED placement options.
This unit produces a nice effect, and it has a handmade feel to it due to the manual assembly of the cube section from squares of rippled plastic.
These type of lights are often worth buying just for the motor, ripple disk and the other rippled plastic panels.
I got it from this listing if it is still there:-
https://www.temu.com/goods.html?_bg_fs=1&goods_id=601099515492353
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
Let's start this video taking a look at the effects this rather attractive device produces. It's the one of the first items I've bought from Temu. It's quite nice, but before I can use it completely I'd like to show you pointing down if I do point it down, it falls apart. Uh, which is going to be how we start this video one moment please? Yeah, this is how it arrived.
It's opposite a rough Journey Quite an interesting construction. It does have a wooden base. it does have a hand made top but as delivered it's very rattly and wasn't working So I applied some air as approval. alcohol down this side here I've just squatted more and I think and uh liberated this off the Hot Melt glue to reveal that the motor and it's circuit board and the little rotating pattern plastic have been Hot Melt glued in.
The Hot Melt glue has not survived the journey so that can be glued back in again. perhaps just something more appropriate. Wood to plastic Hot Melt glue isn't ideal for that. However, here is the principle if I unplug this in.
Unfortunately, it defaults to a standard setting whereby it rotates and it morphs through colors and you can see a slight pulse of modulation flicker there and it's a nice effect on its own Road it should even be visible on the bench. It's not going to be super bright under Studio lighting, but this uh rotating uh pattern with these lenses sort of warp course of effect is then Amplified by this Cube that sits over the top that is made of a more rippled plastic and it just gives a double Ripple and it gives quite complicated defects. It's worth mentioning that it does come with remote control so you can choose fixed colors that won't flicker uh, even full weight shouldn't Flicker and that should be a good mix of red, green, blue, or just individual colors and these ones may flicker. Not sure.
Well, the flicker I'll just press a button and see really flickering a lot, but you can choose multiple colors. just the usual thing you've all seen these remote controls. It's interesting to note that this Cube has been made by literally getting squares and gluing them together. They've used um, methane chloride or something like that as the plastic solvent to physically just instantly join these together and you can tell that because it's got The Telltale sounds that in certain areas they've put on a bit too much and they've left streaks and it's done that thing that makes the plastic go matte.
It's not a terrible thing, it's not terribly bad, but it just kind of like, uh, it's very easy to mess up these things, but it does suggest that a lot of effort went into making this, particularly because uh, it has to then fit into this machined Groove over that and it fits snugly I wonder how many don't fit? but uh, the wiring is very simple. You've uh, USB cable come in with a switch on it, little click on, click off switch and then it just pushes in through a hole. it's glued in and that just goes onto the circuit board. So let's take a look at the soccer board. I'll Zoom down on this a little bit. Temu I should point out are not a sponsor I Bought several items from them to check out. They did actually into Hella Man and they were delivered via Royal Mail Oh very good. So here's the circuit board: Microcontroller: three transistors for red, green, blue, some resistors for the LEDs and a infrared receiver.
There's really not an awful lot here is there? Okay, let's take a closer look at this. I'll take a picture and we can reverse engineer it one moment. Please, Reverse engineering is complete. Let's explore.
It's got some defects in the design, but that's okay. That could be addressed and you can hack the whole thing. You can get rid of the circuit board completely if you want to make it more useful. We have the supply coming on here and it Loops straight out to the motor.
We've got the microcontroller. We've got a high Power LEDs a High Power LED It's basically a 50 50 package and but it's been being run at high power. We've got an infrared receiver, we've got three mosfets, and we've got three resistors 2.2 ohm for green and blue, and 15 ohm for red. We've got a current limiting resistor, about a set of isolation resistor for the supply for the microcontroller, and a 10 Ohm resistor here for the supply for the infrared receiver to decouple it just for noise reasons to separate it from all the noisy switching of the LEDs What a shame that they're not actually isolated from that.
but not to worry, it is what it is. That is what the circuit board looks like. Let's bring in the schematic: I left that running because it's quite attractive just rotating on its own. It's a nice speed as well, even though it's running directly at five volts at a current of approximately 30 milliamps.
Let's Zoom down This, we shall Zoom down and we shall explore. In which case. I'll just get this out the way then because it's not needed I'll even turn it off. So here is the incoming 5 volt reel: I'll just draw that as really big pads because that's exactly what it is.
It is great big pads and that Loops straight down to the motor drawing the 30 milliamps. There is a decoupling capacitor across that I would not have put it there across the five volt reel. Out, put it somewhere else. the there's a 10 Ohm resistor decoupling the infrared from the 5 volt rail the infrared receiver.
To be honest, that's right. I've put that capacitor out I've actually bridged that over to there and got rid of this track. So this capacitor would purely been from here down to the zero volt rail. Here is the 4.7 ohm decoupling resistor and its capacitor for the microcontroller to provide a nice smooth Supply decoupled from all that noise of the LEDs being switched.
Except unfortunately, instead of taking the LEDs up to the 5 volt rail, they actually took it onto that microcontroller rail. Which means that depending which LEDs are lit, it varies between about three and five volts. and the microcontroller then drives mosfets. I've not drawn the little arrows on I shall draw the little arrows on right now 809t otherwise known as e03400n Channel mosfets n Oh God that wasn't an N n Chan And there's the LEDs with their resistors I didn't even color them in the LEDs That would have been nice if I'd colored in the LEDs Hold on. let's color in the LEDs red. This will just make it look nicer. Green and blue. There we go.
That's what it needed just that little Finishing Touch So that's it. Uh, modifications I'd make. Uh, that capacitor would go to there. This track would be removed.
Uh, this would be removed and that would be tied up to the five volt rail providing a much more stable supply for the microcontroller. Um, and to be honest, the LEDs are being absolutely rammed with 130 milliamps, the red, 210 milliamps for the green, 200 milliamps for the blue. Not quite a watt, but then it is. It is only a 50 50 type chip.
So what you could do to modify this if you so desired is get rid of the circuit board, put a bit of aluminum in its place and silicone onto the aluminum. High Power: LED of your choice in a single color because it's quite annoying that every time you turn this on, it starts with its little air transitions through different colors. If you see for instance, you just wanted this to be uh, blue for instance or a nice base Warm White Perhaps you could get the little aluminum plate in place of this uh circuit board and you could put the LED You could silicone onto it and then you could use a resistor and just to have the five volts come in and a single resistor going across to that Led and uh, that would let the LED Well, it would be cooled. You could run the LED Theoretically at higher power, you could run a full 350 milliamps of a one watt LED um, or higher depending heat sinking and your resistor at the side and that would give you a single color.
Just as soon as you power up, it starts and uh, does its stuff type of light, but there we have it. I Mean it's okay. It's quite nice that it's got that handmade filtered even if it had disintegrated on its way here. Look at the flickering going on there.
let's make it green I Can actually point it right down now will I point it down show you what it looks like one moment, please. So this is what it looks like projecting onto the ceiling with all the colors lit at once and if you select a single color, you get obviously just that mottled color. If you choose a multi-color like this, you can choose different ratios. Um, you could choose blue which is going to swamp out the camera or green, which is quite nice actually.
It's very relaxing color. or magenta perhaps if you want that psychedelic swirl, but that is it. It's not a bad effect, it's a very simple design, and to be honest, it's worth buying these. They're not that expensive from Temu not a sponsor and other sources. Um, and they're actually worth getting just for the motor and the disc, if anything else. And because that is the basis of quite an interesting custom effect, it's not bad at all. Very nice little unit.
Clive, couldn't you use a few dabs of UV Resin to stick the motor in place?
It'll bond with pretty much anything.
Repairing the infinity stone
The cap' across the main supply is well placed alright, motors are very noisy, a ceramic would help too. Can't read it's value though, as drawn. The I.R. Module should have it's own, as suggested. Nice simple layout otherwise, a tiny issue really.
sorry to say this but Temu is pronouced Ti-moo like a tee shirt and moo for cow
Those patterns are what I see when I close my eyes in a dimly lit room. Excellent.
There’s 4 more pads. Can you add 4 more led’s?
Can you add LEDs to the other pads without any further modification?
Also, wouldn't it be better to have a diode across the motor to avoid reverse polarity??
Fun for an hour then…. landfill.
Temu.. What happened when ebay and wish had a baby and the baby came out head first onto the floor.
Hooking the leds to the mcu supply is probably deliberate to introduce varying clock speeds with varying voltages.. (If it was my mistake, that'd be my story, and I'd stick to it!!)
That thing is….Way Cool Junior !!!!!!!!
( it's a RATT song, I know, I know….)
Still way cool !
Gelatinous cube 🧊
That would be great to put in the toilet room for when you have guests over. Don’t know why I thought that. Lol
Begging for a WLED upgrade…