These effects aren't new, but I thought it was time to take a look at a current model and see what it's like inside.
I'd also noticed that versions are being done for outdoor garden use, and I must admit that when fired up into a tree it's an impressive effect. Like a 3D sea of fairy lights in the tree.
Of course, whether you should be firing lasers at planes and wildlife is debatable, but the divergence and splitting of the laser beam is probably enough to limit the risk of any issues.
The ebay listing I bought this from was a UK warehouse.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331698940343
I'd also noticed that versions are being done for outdoor garden use, and I must admit that when fired up into a tree it's an impressive effect. Like a 3D sea of fairy lights in the tree.
Of course, whether you should be firing lasers at planes and wildlife is debatable, but the divergence and splitting of the laser beam is probably enough to limit the risk of any issues.
The ebay listing I bought this from was a UK warehouse.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331698940343
If I wanted to take note of connections for reassembly, I usually just snap a picture of it and put it in my Apple notes lol
"Beam combiners, lasers, they all used to be incredibly science-lab stuff and now you get it in consumer gadgets just rammed into bits of plastic", says Big Clive as I sheepishly look around my room that's just rammed full of plastic consumer products, lasers, beam combiners, and other one-time science-lab stuff.
For a 240V VDE approval, the spacing requirement is 8mm. It looks good except for that big white capacitor which is bridging the gap. I think normally that would defeat approval because there is no standard for internal capacitor to external casing voltage creepage distance. I wouldn't do it, but it doesn't surprise me that things like that "fly" these days. I mean, it's only an electrocution hazard, right?
As for the transformer, I'm sure you know, it can't have 8mm of spacing between windings, so it has to do with layers of insulation, but there are also clearance and creepage spacing requirements which have to be met. Typically, there would be spacer tape at the ends of the windings (I'm saying this for the benefit of your viewers because you seem to know plenty about such things) to create a fixed distance between the ends of the windings after the primary to secondary insulation tape is in place. So, if the distance is 8mm, you would need 4mm spacer tape at each end of each winding and the gap would be from one end, past the 4mm spacer of the primary and then the 4mm of the secondary spacer tape for the total of 8mm, and two layers of insulation tape between the windings. If you want a shield, that needs spacer tape too. Best EMI configuration is primary winding, one layer of insulation tape, the primary shield (which grounds to the primary ground), two layers of insulation tape, the secondary shield (which grounds to the secondary ground), one more layer of insulation tape and finally the secondary winding. With all that spacing, insulation and shielding, the transformer ends up being twice the size.
So, for a given power output, you can pretty much determine the safety of the transformer by its size, once you get a feel for how big a good one is. If it's small for the power you're talking about, it probably is lacking in safety and / or EMI shielding.
Mine has a tiny 40mm fan
I have this lol
Find myself humming Pink Floyd tunes.
where can i buy replacement lasers
Hi Clive, I just found this video. Must have missed it way back.
Anyhow, a buddy of mine gave one to me as he claimed the red laser had blown. With thanks, I tore it down and found that he'd probably dropped the unit after a gig, because the little chip of a dichroic beam combiner had fallen out of its housing.
So I did pretty-much the same as you did there, and took out both holographic films (static and rotating).
Then I put the dichroic back in, so that both beams shot out the front unhindered as two beams; a red and a green.
By the way, the green laser can be between 3 and 5 mW. so be careful!
With some very fine adjustment, I was able to get the two beams to almost line up. Micrometer adjustment would have helped.
At short range, they were practically super-imposed, but by pointing at progressively more distant points (retro-reflective road signs) I noticed a distinct divergence between the two beams.
So, you could almost create a Laser Distance-O-Meter.
A lot of fun it was!
What is the glass called that stuck on the front of the case I need to get a new 1.
I sat around for about 3 hours with a group of people one time in the early morning hours and we all sat in awe as we took turns trying to turn the speed up on one of those kaleidoscope lasers exactly like that one and turn the knob all the way back when the lasers all met in a point. Well just say it was a psychedelic party.
I made some underwater boat lights using casting epoxy and current drivers last year. Im light years behind on powering high powered lights. This year my new project upgrade was going to be aspheric lenses to add to the beam effect underwater. Wanted to start using cree multi whatever you call them with multi tir lenses like used on flashlights or off road vehicles. My terminology knowledge is poor so finding the right parts is going slow. In the process i"ve stumbled upon you among many other cool people who love lights, electronics, and similar subjects so thank you for being alive and doing your videos. I now want to skip a step and have underwater laser lights at like a cyan hue wavelength. Green would be good too. If I were to cast resin basically this module found inside the Xmas light leaving part of the heat sink exposed to water for cooling it should be sufficient for cooling. Ive been testing a very undersized heatsink 25watt cob light recently and worked good for the few hours I had it in the water. Srry, just sharing a lil incase it helps anyone wanting to make underwater boat lights for cheap. Back to my ultimate question. I would have to seal the lens sufficiently with clear casting resin with having the least amount effect on the laser output so im kinda curious how sensitive the lasers are and a good way to do it. Not only to waterproof the light but to protect the glass. My other question would be what material is used for high power laser lenses. All i see is videos of the green ones burning things down on here which isnt my intent. Ha. I just want an amazing beam coming off the back of my boat. If i had enough life span in me id invent a laser light for a boats rooster tail like ive seen in some you tube videos of water trapping the laser light using a stream of water. A rooster tail off a boat could be a small scale bellagio light show effect with a few high powered boats sending up green red and blue 40 ft rooster tails up in the at night. But yea. First things first i just want to seal it off "the lens" without terribly effecting the optics. Maybe just a thicker lens made out of lexan. Would be nice having a thin dual removable replaceable lens also that could serve just as a barrier from scratching, algae, etc.. from the permanent lens. From what Ive seen lasers bounce off glass very easily but some proper angling of the lens can let the beam through. Just rambling. Think ill just order a couple cheap laser pens and start experimenting. Will also get this light you are so beautifully modifying and tinker with it too. And of course keep watching your video. Thanks for being inspiring in creating new ideas and just teaching people in a way that we can relate. Your videos may be long but for good reason. Ur funny and you arent rushing through the play by play with editing or altering the video. My question got lost in the rambling but thats okay. Keep up the good work. Im anti subscribing but its kinda impossible with you being so on my level as far as tinkering and tampering. Have a wonderful day.
I was a little upset when I got nailed in the eye or the eye lid by a laser from one of these. I was roughly 30 meters away walking down the street. Somebody had one on their deck that was broken and it had mirrors inside and it was shooting a few tight beams down the road. It was easily hitting houses 3 times the distance it got me. It didn't see to have a lot divergence, no permanent damage but it was green. I told a friend about it and she laughed and told me the lasers they sell aren't powerful enough to do any damage to our eyes. I was skeptical. She said she could prove it and went and found a red pet laser and before I realized what she was doing she aimed the laser right into her eyeball!!!!!! From less than a foot away.NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! I actually saw her holding the beam continuously and it hitting the white of her eyeball. It was less than a second before I could stop her but a second is a long time when it comes to things that burn you. She didn't have any damage but I still can't believe someone would do that. It's been a few years and I can still remember it like it just happened. She was surprised at my reactio, Under no circumstance would I let her do it again. Apparently she had done the little trick a few times. I told her that I was positive it can do damage . Especially if it hits the center of your eye or the batteries were stronger, or the electronics were different, also wave length plays a key. I'm thinking distance now. . How dangerous are they and did I overreact? Thanks for providing this service to curious folk.
I have lost those diffraction grating on the motor, can i use any other material? Any options? Help
Buy another one Clive then combine two Green Lasers in one!
Yes Clive thank fuck you did a video!
I would’ve replaced the dichroic mirror with an X-cube and added a blue diode. That way, I could get any color I want!
Edit: I just remembered how defraction gratings work and now I’m sad.