The cheap Chinese quad/scooter wiring loom yields another treasure for our exploration. The starter solenoid. It's internal operation is different to what I was expecting. In hindsight I guess the way it works allows it to "bang" the contacts apart when turned off, to prevent them sticking.
This is the bit that sometimes fails, making loud clicking noises when your car's starter motor is supposed to be turning over. A sharp blow with the handle of a large screwdriver can sometimes get you back in action temporarily.
The coil is controlled from your start button/key and switches the high current required by the starter motor.
The solenoid coil seemed OK on 6V (1.75A) and 12V (3A), but has a low duty cycle for thermal reasons, so is not suited for continuous operation.
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This is the bit that sometimes fails, making loud clicking noises when your car's starter motor is supposed to be turning over. A sharp blow with the handle of a large screwdriver can sometimes get you back in action temporarily.
The coil is controlled from your start button/key and switches the high current required by the starter motor.
The solenoid coil seemed OK on 6V (1.75A) and 12V (3A), but has a low duty cycle for thermal reasons, so is not suited for continuous operation.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Yeah, that coil wire is copper all right, on that cheap chinese part… Until you try and solder to that wire! Copper-clad aluminum seems to be the thing these days. ๐
Does it matter what side u hook power to
you talk like an over educated sean connery from the medieval age
Why does it need 3 amps!! Is it because of the voltage drop when running the starting motor wouldn't disconnect the relay entering in a loop?
Disappointed, thought you were going to put a finger on the outlet ๐
Who needs a solenoid when you can put a screwdriver across the terminals
You're right I'm sitting here watching your video looking at the cut on my hand small flat top screwdriver to everybody watching this video remember safety rules are written in blood not ink
I had a 1960s Triumph car – the original starter solenoid was designed with a rubber dome on the end opposite the contacts, so that you could engage the starter just by pressing the rubber dome and moving the solenoid core directly. Very handy – no need to short the contacts with a spanner. I later had to replace it with a modern part, which of course was designed without that feature in order to save a penny per part.
Watts for DC VA only sensibly used regarding AC
This channel is the best… Happy New year winners ๐๐น
yes, when I was young driving for car service, I had to start my 1987 crown Victoria with the metal clip on my clip board. I also rescued a girl and her 1988 crown Victoria by starting it with a shovel across the terminals.
There are some bigger solenoids that should be capable of handling 600 – 1000 Amps according specs. I wonder if these would be useful switches for spotwelders with a big car battery? I tried these but found they tend to stick together on the first or second weld. A good big car battery can deliver in access of 1000 Amps, maybe 2kA for a short time – thats probably too much. Is it better to use high amps power mosfets as switches? You would need at least 6 in parallel for the current. I know such constructions are around for li-ion cell spot welding and seem to work quite well.
Yeah sometimes the things that stump Clive remind me of "Blues Clues" where even a five-year-old is screaming the answers at the screen. LOL