Yet another LED lamp. but this time it is from Ikea. It's the solhector LEDs Technically speaking, I should have checked the pronunciation of that before I started the video. but solhector it is.

It's probably close enough. Uh, this one is non-dimmable It's 2 700k color temperature which is a warm weight and it says 25 000 hours I'm inclined to believe that's probably true with Ikea. It's worth mentioning that its efficiency is D. But note: this is the new European efficiency thing.

Well, actually, it's the British symbol there. I Guess that's not the European thing. it's the British efficiency thing. In the past these LED lamps, we've been a plus plus plus plus.

they went right back down to F. This one's absolute D and I Get the feeling that that may indicate and I could be wrong here, that it may have lots. Lots of LEDs not being driven too hard unlike many of the other products because there's text everywhere in there. Wow.

So much text. Let's put it into the lamp tester and give it a test. It looks actually it's not that warm. it's quite a.

uh Fierce It Also says six Watts What's that? Oh, where's the other one? What's going on there? Is this the correct lamp? Oh, it says 4 000 K In this box, someone's been shuffling lamps. Or is it just mislabeled? Um, foreign. This looks as though it might be the right lamp. Oh, that's better.

It's not that bright. Okay, the other one pulled. That's exciting. Uh, 3.4 Watts as indicated and it is that warm weight.

What happened there? Someone has clearly been emptying boxes out and stuffed a wrong lamp him. I don't even know they did these ones. We'll open both of them. That's the answer.

We shall open both of the lamps. Radio: Let's start with uh, this one. Whichever it is, we'll work out when we see that in the sides. So I'm gonna squeeze the plastic in and there's unreasonable Force to try and part this from the base.

another one does that is well glued on right that looks like the wormish colored one. Oh, blame me. It's got a separate power supply in the back. It's not what I was expecting.

Uh. also slight trace of blood appearing. Not to worry. Now we'll get the spotter into this one since the other one was quite hard to open and it sometimes helps to just slide this around inside.

That was better. This one is based on a linear current regulator and this is just a higher power one, not higher number of LEDs as it is for a typical four wattage type lamp 3.4 watt. Uh, this one has quite a lot of LEDs right? Okay, I shall open these and we shall explore them further one moment. Please, Reverse engineering is complete.

Let's explore and I have to say that Ikea seemed to have bucked the trend of linear Regulators by using Buck Regulators in both these lamps. but different. Buck Regulators one which I have not seen before. Quite interesting.

Let's Zoom down just a little bit to get closer to these pictures. The LED panel of the low power wormite lamp this set of 3.4 What was it? It has 10. LEDs The LEDs are wired as parallel pairs, all wired in the series. so there's effectively five parallel pairs in the series.

and each one of these has six chips per LED. So roughly 18 volts per parallel per The circuitry is completely off board here, and it's worth mentioning that housing for this has a couple of Auditors. It is not the well, it's not the audio Minima housing like the other one is. it's a thermally conductive plastic housing.

But also, you know there's a little stud that goes up the bottom for the connection for the Uh E27 holders. look at the length of this one. It goes right up the inside and then goes into the wire pinching point, which is right up at the end. That is quite strange.

I Don't know why they've done that. That is unusual. Maybe it's to make it universally suitable for different lamp holders. I'm not sure, but they have done it.

That is what they've done. I'll put that out the way we can look at the circuit board and there is a BP I'm going to have to read it off the data sheet here. Bv2861 Bp2861 That is a very simple bug regulator. We've got a bridge react fire converting the incoming AC to DC there I've not flipped these over.

By the way, there are. There's the inline resistor, which I think is 30 ohms. We've got a small indoctrine series with the rectifier actually that's after the rectifier with its resistor across it. And then we've got a smoothing capacitor the 400 volt one.

uh, quite a low value I Think that was one microfard and so is this one as well. the one that's actually for the LEDs And there is the inductor that limits the current through the LEDs the circuitry itself not really much to it. there is the incoming Supply via the 30 Ohm resistor. There is a position for a capacitor that is not used, a little suppress capacitor types of X2, and we've got a 9.1 K resistor in parallel with a little filtering inductor.

We've got the two smoothing capacitors, one for the incoming Supply and one for the output to the LEDs and there is which. I've not drawn the drawing, a resistor to provide a slight load across the LEDs and possibly to avoid ghosting to make sure it goes out quickly. and uh. also well, that's mainly the two reasons probably.

There are two current sense resistors a 10 ohm and 11 ohm. Pretty much five of them then. um, but everything else is done by this chip. This strangely deliberate blob of stuff I Wasn't sure what it was until I saw the little blob oozing out the other side I Think that's just for priming the glue nozzle.

Not sure if it's for any specific reason, but they use glue under these components when they can replace them, Let me bring in the data sheet because the data sheet is all we need I shall zoom out of it The data sheet. I've added the 30 Ohm resistor where they've shown a fuse. so it's because it is a fusible resistor. There's the little capacitor that's not used there that's a blanked out because it was a straight line through.

They've added the 9.1 K resistor and the inductor and the only other thing I really need to add to this is a resistor which I think is yes, it is across here and that is 510k. so almost certainly just to avoid ghosting of the LEDs there's the parallel series of rear LEDs I'm guess guessing? guess the meeting 90 volts across the LEDs uh. unusually used the same value capacitor for both. It's quite a low value, but it works.

It's fine. and there's the two cinch resistors at the bottom. Uh, not really much else to say. It's a standard Buck regulator.

There'll be a diode inside here. Um, which? uh, that uses the inductor to limit the current when it turns on, when it basically shunts it to the zero volt rail uh, briefly. and then when it turns it back off again, that field collapses. It will divert that back through a diode in the package round to get double duty out of that.

For efficiency to charge, capacitor and light, the LEDs All the current sensing is done via these resistors. You could change these. You could snap one of them off and that would effectively, um, probably half the power if you wanted to do it. But to be honest, I'm expecting the Ikea stuff to be pretty efficient.

Now the next one here, the other lamp. Let's Zoom down. This a bit quite an odd. Construction The circuitry is all in the one circuit board, but they've actually glued it on with a silicone.

And then for these little panty flaps over on the the panty Wings to hold that in place. But it is. It's not sticky, gooey silicon, it is hard silicone. and that means that it's quite difficult getting that circuit board off.

so I didn't bother. Uh, they have spaced all the capacitors off with big long leads to try and keep the heat away from them. Uh, there is a little filter inductor there. There's a little filter capacitor there.

There's inductor limits current through the LEDs I will find the data sheet for this, which is an odd chip. Let me zoom out to fit this in. No, let me zoom out further to fit this in. So what we have here this time, there is a 10 Ohm resistor in line.

They've added a 68 nanofar capacitor and a little filtering inductor in the series here. I Don't see a resistor across that. There's usually that's still shunt resistor to uh as a damping resistor across the inductors. The bridge rectifier is in here.

effectively. what they've got here is what I often draw as the bridge rectifier. So they've got the AC going in here and they've got the negative and the positive going out like that. Note: see these Earth symbols here.

They're not earth, they just mean the negative. They're just a reference for the the circuitry is ground reference at zero volt reference that's not actually Mains ground and then after that it is just the same thing again. Uh, they've got that little diode in there. They've got the Um current sense resistor.

there. current sense resistor. Now there's a thing. Where's the current central resistor? Oh, there it is.

Uh, one moment, please and resume. It's 8.2 ohm in parallel with 12 ohm Uh, they are on the front so that's not too hard to hack. Theoretically, you could whap one of those resistors out and change the power rating of the lamp. Uh, more critical with this one because it is going to get a lot hotter.

The LEDs are three chip LEDs and there's 18 of them in series giving I estimate 162 volts. There is a 50k shunt resistor across that, which that seems quite odd I Thought it would have been harmed that I thought it'd been 500k but it definitely says five zero, three fifty, and three zeros 50k. Strange. and once again, it will have a little um, diode in here to make sure that when it uses this inductor to actually bridge to the zero volt rail, is it going to be pretty beautiful? Real? Yes, it is.

Uh, that when the field collapses and it will divert it back to the capacitor again for that maximum efficiency? Uh, in this case, I get 2.2 microfarad for her vote. Death beam capacitors for both, but they're completely different capacitors. It's a little brown one, maybe a low impedance one uh, on the output side, and a high impedance one on the input side. But they're really small for the value.

Uh, suspiciously small for the value. They've miniaturized stuff a lot, but at least they have space them off in these wires to try and avoid them being overheated. But there we go. That is the IKEA lamps.

the double whammy video because I don't know why there were two different lamps in one package I Wonder if people have just been pulling them out the packet and just laying them out and someone just stuff them back in? Or maybe someone wanted one of each. So they opened the packets and they made a packet of their own with one of each value of the lamp. Um, and then uh, the other ones. They put the other one back in and that's the one that I Randomly picked up.

It was a random choice of land box. Well, that's worth remembering. No, don't do that. But there we go.

the IKEA lamps. Very different to the way other lamps have gone, particularly for the non-dimmables Um I didn't get dimmable lamps I don't think I have to dig through what I bought I ended up going to Ikea but ended up just holding everything I should have got a bag really I didn't want to get too much because I was going to have to ship it back now I use that to regulate how much I bought, but I ended up with handfuls of stuff all stacked on top of each other with only one minor Avalanche during the shopping experience. But there we go: the Ikea LED lamps. quite interesting and being Ikea I would expect them to be pretty good quality and last a decent length of time.

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