A few people have asked if I can take a look at these quick-repair connectors for cars and other applications.
The idea is that you can basically put the stripped ends of two wires into one of these connectors and when heated it solders the wires together, while also providing a waterproof seal with heat shrink sleeve and hot melt rings.
Note that wires should be shiny copper or tinned copper for any soldered connection to work properly. If the wire is oxidised, black and tarnished then it will not always readily take solder even with flux. In that instance it may be necessary to cut back either side to see if you can find clean copper and patch a new bit of wire in.
The word of the day is "smoosh". A special word mechanics use for smooshing things together.
Here's a typical eBay search link for these things:-
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=car+solder+heat+shrink&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_sop=15
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
The idea is that you can basically put the stripped ends of two wires into one of these connectors and when heated it solders the wires together, while also providing a waterproof seal with heat shrink sleeve and hot melt rings.
Note that wires should be shiny copper or tinned copper for any soldered connection to work properly. If the wire is oxidised, black and tarnished then it will not always readily take solder even with flux. In that instance it may be necessary to cut back either side to see if you can find clean copper and patch a new bit of wire in.
The word of the day is "smoosh". A special word mechanics use for smooshing things together.
Here's a typical eBay search link for these things:-
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=car+solder+heat+shrink&_sacat=0&LH_BIN=1&_sop=15
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
I used these in repairing a headlight of my wife's car. they held on perfectly despite the hot temps of the headlight running.
Given the hardness and low temperature I'd not mind betting it's an alloy of one of the bismuth, cadmium metals
maybe flux the wires beforhand? perhaps it would flow better?
Better than scotchloks, but I haven't had 100% reliability. Good crimp or old fashion soldering for me.
These work fine if you use them as designed/intended.
Too much stripped wire cause too much spread of the solder, only strip 1½ – 2 times the width of the solder ring.
Make sure to use the correct diameter splice, too loose and the solder and wire starts to oxidize before contacting the wire risking a "cold solder joint'.
Heatshrink 101 – never use a naked flame, unless you have no other choice.
Only specialized forms of heatshrink are designed for use with naked flame/blowtorches.
Avionics SHOPS and ME uses these Solder BUTTS for wiring Aircraft radios and all Elctrical and Electrinics NAV equipments like GARMIN G1000 Garmin GX 750 etc Looks oyu have not much Electronics expertise Having Boubts of a product used in the Aircrafts Industries and Avionics Installers WORLDWIDE
hey are these any better then using electrical tape ?
So what was the original brand name of the first company that came out with these type of connectors?
is it ok if some of the adhesive contacts the copper wire?
This is a stupid video proper testing would have been a pull test and an amperage test ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,FAIL
I found that the solder didn't bond well with the copper. If you pull the wires apart the solder comes off cleanly.
I used to use these in the Navy back in the 90s. They were referred to as environmental splices as they created a sealed, soldered connection for splicing. Standard heat shrink doesn't have that 'environment proof' characteristic.
You get little heat shields that slip on the end of the hit air gun. So you get even heat around. I use a Weller heat gun at work to do this.
Would you recommend these or the crimp type more?