This is an interesting thing. It's a ceiling leg that screws into a standard Edison screw lamp holder, but also as a fan and you can choose well, theoretical according to instructions. you can choose the light, the fan, or both at once, but I've not had that I've had. Well, I'll show you I shall screw it in.

Here is the hoppy: I shall aim this away from the Uh microphone when I'm screwing this in. So initially, when you power up, it's just the light and that comes in at 25 watts. Quite bright, uh, in position in a room. It actually looks very much like one of those uh Road circular fluorescent lamps.

You can actually feel a sort of radiant warmth from the illumination if I unscrew it though and then power it up again. Define stars and it's fairly powerful I Have to say I've tried this and uh, it certainly a good airflow. theoretically. Then you unscrew it and turn it on again.

Nope. It doesn't do any point just to Fan its own. So what was it with the fifth? Uh, I'm running 29 Watts and without the fan? uh 27. Watts it's out now so actually 25 has dropped.

It's so about say for watch the fan right here. sorry if that that was off shot quite a lot just because of that amount of airflow and also because of the size. This thing is fairly big. What? What size is it? Let me grab a ruler I'll give you an inches and millimeters.

so it's roughly 10 inches across, which equates to approximately Uh 250 mil. This thing has two mounting options. this bit bin it caps off quite firstly, quite hard to go on and you do have the option of undoing this connector and uh, using this on the ceiling connecting your main Supply into I Don't know if it leaves an awful lot of room in here. you might have to actually have the connection in the ceiling itself, which isn't ideal, but then you can just plug a feed directly into this so this thing can mount hard up against the ceiling if you wish, which is quite nice.

Let's get that out. Let's get these out of the way completely and bring in the screwdriver and papa open. We'll take a look at the secretary I shall pop that out of the way there so three screws. Hopefully this isn't going to be clip it on in some way.

We'll find out when I take it out. Kind of intrigue to see what the circuitry is I wonder if it's uh I would guess given it that power is a constant current supply for the LEDs If they got a separate supply for the for the fun, can we get the circuit board out here. Is that got a screw before? I pull this too hard. It does feel like it's just adhesive.

It feels like it's adhesive. Okay, what do we have here? I Tell you what. I Shall take a picture of this and we can reverse engineer it one moment. Please reverse engineering is complete.

Let's explore! I Have to say that was super frustrating mainly because of this trip here which is the power supply for the fan and it deviates from the data sheet. Not that I could find much of a data sheet anyway, but when I found the closest I could get to a datasheet, it doesn't It's got something wrong. I Don't know who's if it was the person who designed this or the manufacturers get on error in the data sheet, but they they're doing something odd and it made it just a little bit harder to reverse engineer. The fan motor is a typical brushless DC motor, but there's very little on it.

You've got one, two three connections here, and then you've got the little four pin chip that just sequences the windings and it's got the built-in Hall effects. and so there's virtually nothing on this, just the windings and that little chip which doubles up as the sensor. Very neat. The LEDs Let me show you the LEDs once you've finally unclipped the cover, which is very hard to remove.

uh, partly because it's glued as well as clipped and like how many clipping positions are there One, two, three, four five, six, seven, eight clipping positions which made it very hard to remove. But there are three sections of LEDs Warden series inside and each one has double chip. LEDs Plus, they've got two in parallel times. one two three four, five, six So 18 pairs in parallel, all Warden series and each with two chips in series if that.

if that makes sense. I may hack this down to lower power and with that resistor there, but there is a there is a caveat to that. Now let's see if you can find the fault if I zoom down this uh, a little bit and we look at the back of this circuit board. see if you can find the fault.

I'll give you a clue. it's a thin track because it's a control line that actually turns the lights off. Can you see it? It's there. the photos that during manufacturer uh, there's a bit of track missing.

Unless you've scrubbed off the drawing because it malfunctions. it blows up I'm not really sure. maybe I've about to find out because I've just bridged that with a bit of wire. Uh, we can explore that together when I turn the power back on again.

Um, other than that, let's go to the main picture here and then I shall show you the schematic as the modular sections. Now there is a very interesting chip in this. See this little chip here: a little salt 23 6 but well, it's actually stock 23 but it's got the five pins that's that's made by Bright Power it doesn't say Bpe, it says uh s4523 B I think that is or S I'll show you the Dashie Anyway, it's very clever that is a very clever chip. It's only got a 10K resistor there.

Um, connected straight to the power and it switches to loads. When you toggle the light switch on and off, this switch is actually enabling. Uh, this power supply and the uh, the lamp driver. Um, the lamp driver has two resistors in parallel.

As they often do, it's got a little surface mode underneath at 1.8 ohm. and then this top resistor 1.5 ohm. This is just something they do a lot and there's a little fusible resistor. There was the weirdest color coding ever.

Um, right. let's go straight to the schematics and I'll just show you as manufacturers data sheets. Let's team this down just a little tiny bit. I'll do.

Probably way too dim, but not to worry. Um, this is the fancy chip. The one that has impressed me. The little Bright Power chip.

Um, is there a number on this? No, there's not a number in this. Oh well, but it's a five pin chip and it's got the negative. Connection goes to the zero reel and we get one common incoming. Supply Now it's worth mentioning.

there is a slight deviation here. They've spot live in neutral. The neutral is the one that's actually the live is the fuse net and the neutral is actually the one going with a 10 key resistor to that. but it takes a full refractified Supply In the case of the UK that's about 330ish volts and that goes straight to the chip.

and it's got the negative there positive there and it references on the primary side of the um, the unsmooth side of the bridge rectifier. it has a 10K resistor and it senses the AC and it knows when the AC is turned off and back on again. Clever little chip and then toggles one, two, or both. Uh, that is it.

A clever clever chip. And there's the odd fusible resistor which the color code is Brown, Black, Gold, Gold black. Have never seen a color code like that before. Brown Black Gold gold is not a standard for band color code.

Um, I'm guessing really brown Black gold is what we're looking at here. One zero and then a divider to make it 1. Ohm. Anyway, what else is there? The super duper 15 microfire? This big one.

Uh, Death Beam capacitor. that's gonna cook all the wee bitos. The death beam capacitor I should mention it's a conspiracist who claimed that the 400 volt capacitors and the LED drivers and street lights were to power at the 5G death beams. Very peculiar.

Ignore the redirect foreign capacitor because they're actually on the other part. This is the LED driver. It's a bright power Bpe2867f, the pin marked NC no connection I Guess that's a very variation of the F that's the one that's actually got the broken track. uh bit worrying.

It says no connection, but I Guess that's an enable pin. Uh, we'll find out when I turn it on again. there's inductive limits of current. There is the capacitor across the LEDs and the shunt resistor just to provide a slight load.

And uh, it does the usual thing that it pulses the current through the inductor and then Doctor limits the current. and then when it turns off, the collapsing Doctor of Field induces a current Spagnob Center Direction which goes via this diode, this Freewheel diode and just Uh tops the Capac drop so it's an efficient way of dropping it. Very low pin count. There's the two resistors down here for the current sensing which sets the output current to the LEDs and there is a 30k resistor which is going to be the problem.

that's the resistor over voltage. Protect. By setting that resistor, it sets the maximum voltage it will measure across the output. and the reason it does that is that in this case, it really hits to protect against if the LEDs Goblin circuit will limit the amount of working it goes on.

But also it protects this 250 volt capacitor from being overvolted because of uh, it didn't cut the voltage down. with this resistor programming a voltage threshold, it could actually cause that capacitor to pop when the LEDs filled. Uh, that is it. I'm going to cut that Uh 1.51 resistor off afterwards because no comes just absolute hell.

The bit that took me so long because it's completely upside down and backward bits missing. The Kp219. What is this? Kp219 is at zero. Yep.

Kp2190sg. Uh, Kiwi I Found Kiwi Instruments The data sheet is ultra vague. It's in Chinese Even by Chinese standards, it's vague. It's just a really badly documented chip.

But anyway, the Snover Network across the Transformer because it isn't sort of theoretically isolated-ish Supply is Uh. Missing There is a feedback winding that's used with a very high value resistor purely to sense the voltage on the other side. Quite interesting. Um, the diff changes I've made here is that on the data sheet, it shows the current sense connected directly to negative.

In reality, the ground is connect directly to negative uh, and then the current sense. All the other components are showing reference to ground are actually connected to the current sense. After that 2.7 Ohm resistor That was very bamboozling, but they're basically speaking the inductor here provide the feedback winding. Uh provides a feedback voltage that goes through this divider and then goes to feedback winding.

The choice resistor sets the voltage that appears on the other side and there's a little capacitor for its own Supply which is oddly referenced to current sense and not ground. Um, it's a strange I Get the feeling that might be a mistake. or it might be a data sheet mistake. There's a one Mega resistor going to this OB I Haven't a clue.

It does it mention the datasheet? It shows OB with a resistor to it output. Enable goodness knows, but that is being pulled to zero volts to enable this so that resistor would theoretically keep it turned off. Maybe very strange. Uh, right.

So I'm going to reassemble this now and then before I turn the power on. I'll start the camera again so we can Marvel and see if it works or it goes bang one moment please. And we're back and it is time to see if it's going to explode. Let's lift the circuit board off the fan blades because that would be quite dramatic.

This isn't on so I just show just gingerly stuff that over there. This isn't really fitting anywhere. Is it it's not really having? Yeah, this is. This is a bit tight if you ask me right.

Is it going to bang light on? Burn on, but lay off light and fun on. it works right? Uh, so now what was the power? We're just a light on 25 watts. It says sideways. now that's a Perez off.

Um, let's Lop that resistor out there and see if it just stops the light working completely, it may do it often does. Ready a word slit at lower power, it's down to 10.9 Watts now and it's still got its fan functionality. Excellent. Well, that's a good result.

Um, so quite interesting soccer trip. That little chip alone was by far the most exciting bit in this. The fact that uh, Ekton switched between those two things I'm not sure what current it's rated at I should take a look at that data sheet again. Uh, especially surprising is a bright power chip and then again, look at.

they do nothing but this of LED lighting but that uh, that concludes the video God It took so long to make that video, it took ages to make that video because of all that complex reverse engineering. Uh, particularly with the errors and how it was just skewing the values and finding the data sheets in the first place. But having said that, well worthwhile. Um, interest I Like the fan I Like the fan, it makes me realize the fan is powerful.

It's probably cheaper instead of using a big desk fan with a big heavy motor to just use these little air brushless DC motors and the little switch mode power supply. That's probably going to make it cheaper to make these. Plus, you could also have the optional posted modulation settings. You could give it complete uh, variable speed control.

Uh, but there we go, it's working. It's the fan light that does actually work completely now that has been repaired with that weird anomaly on the circuit board. job done.