I had another go at getting this thing to communicate with various devices and step the voltage up for higher power delivery, but drew a blank. It just didn't happen.
It would have been handy to have a USB-C breakout PCB to check voltages, since the middle output didn't seem to activate at all, even for 5V.
This is one of many clone power supplies being sold on eBay at a higher price than a safe and compliant charger from somewhere like IKEA. There's absolutely no guarantee of safety with the grey import units. A good USB charger is an essential part of modern digital life, so it pays to get a good one and also a decent cable for your higher power items. These units from unaccountable sellers often pose a high shock and equipment damage risk through cost cutting and bad design.
The circuitry is quite intriguing because of the way they have implemented the ability to initially have a standard 5V supply, but then allow two different ICs to negotiate a higher voltage with the connected equipment and then override the preset 5V reference to raise it to the desired level.
The two power supply modules are quite unusual for having separate rectifiers and smoothing capacitors on the primary side. They could have used a single rectifier and smoothing capacitor. I wonder if it's to avoid interaction, or just based on a duplicated single power supply design.
The use of a TL431 shunt regulator with a near-50/50 divider to hit its threshold of 2.5V with a supply rail of 5V is quite neat.
The primary side control chips are almost certainly a clone of another prominent IC like a Viper 22A
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
It would have been handy to have a USB-C breakout PCB to check voltages, since the middle output didn't seem to activate at all, even for 5V.
This is one of many clone power supplies being sold on eBay at a higher price than a safe and compliant charger from somewhere like IKEA. There's absolutely no guarantee of safety with the grey import units. A good USB charger is an essential part of modern digital life, so it pays to get a good one and also a decent cable for your higher power items. These units from unaccountable sellers often pose a high shock and equipment damage risk through cost cutting and bad design.
The circuitry is quite intriguing because of the way they have implemented the ability to initially have a standard 5V supply, but then allow two different ICs to negotiate a higher voltage with the connected equipment and then override the preset 5V reference to raise it to the desired level.
The two power supply modules are quite unusual for having separate rectifiers and smoothing capacitors on the primary side. They could have used a single rectifier and smoothing capacitor. I wonder if it's to avoid interaction, or just based on a duplicated single power supply design.
The use of a TL431 shunt regulator with a near-50/50 divider to hit its threshold of 2.5V with a supply rail of 5V is quite neat.
The primary side control chips are almost certainly a clone of another prominent IC like a Viper 22A
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
It's a super duper high speed charger or is it so. This one came in Samsung Packaging and it's all wrapped up to make it look harsh. look. It's got that plastic film around it that they do and it's got very generous readings there.
Where's the listing for this? It says 155 watt Max charger plug, two type C plus one USB port 65 watt, 25 watt, and 15 watt from the 5 volt. Supply and this was 15 pounds. It's quite an expensive ish charger. I mean not if it was real, but this is not real because if it was actually Samsung, you'd be saying yes, it's a Samsung charger and it is smart as such.
but ignore all the markings in these. Uh I have plugged it in. Well, let me plug it in. Let me get the little parameter.
Where's the parameter. There's a parameter and I should plug it in here and get the little parameter into the 5 volt section and it does actually say 5.15 volt. This is good. We shall get uh, the controllable load and plug it into it and we'll ramp it up.
Now let me Zoom down this so you can actually see what we're getting here, so is holding five volts. It's an amp that's pretty good. It's almost saying why doesn't the fan run? It only runs when it gets hot enough to run. Uh, 1.6 amps.
This should go up to three amps. Theoretically, the voltage of the 5 volts is starting to drop off now 4.9 and it's cut out so that was just below 2 Amp Uh I Plugged other things into the other ports and I could not get anything to fast charge. So um, let's explore what's inside and see if there's any fast charge circuitry at home. I'm not holding my breath now.
How does this come apart? It looks as though it comes out from that end. There are screws here. Hmm. hold on one moment please and resume now.
I have the screwdriver so let's remove this. Although I get the feeling this may not be holding it together. this might purely be to retain the classic British fold out plug. Is this going to come off? Is it going to come off? Maybe it's not going to come off? Hold on.
Let's just prize that out like that. Does that reveal anything? No, it doesn't Okay Well, it was worth the go, right? What about the spudger? Is this even going to get in here? Is this where it's supposed to go in? Am I just breaking this? Probably. Well, I just break it I'll put it in the face and I'll give it every squeeze. Uh, where's the vice? I'm not really planning on using this regardless because without a known pedigree, you just don't know what you're getting from electrical safety perspective.
Matt My original opinion still stands I Regard Uh, Ikea charges One of the best value for the quote at the moment, right? I'm going to smack this off camera so it doesn't deafen everyday. Has that done anything? Squeeze a bit more I mean you have to pause if this doesn't Uh, it doesn't surrender its secrets. In short measure: I Have a sneaky feeling I'm gonna have to pause on I Yeah, I'm gonna have to pause. This thing is glued shut. Maybe they just don't want us into. oh no. I'm gonna look at this. look at this scrunchy, scrunching, oh what have we got? Let's grip it with a pair of loneless pliers and Hike it out.
I'll put the vice of knowledge down since it has achieved its purpose. Let's grab the circuit board gently and there is a slab of Steel sitting on two. Transformers it's a piece of Steel Well, that's very Hefty that's very good value. That must be all the power in it.
And what do we have in here? Because why have they done that? They've got two bit of rectifiers. Look of it. two completely separate circuits. Uh, supplying.
Do they have power delivery right? Tell you what. I shall analyze the circuitry one moment, please. Okay, let's explore. and I Have to say surprise of all, surprise, this thing can actually negotiate higher output voltages.
It does to the facility to do that and it's done. Done it in a very, very weird way as you shall see. so the incoming supply has a token gesture little inductor that probably doubles as the fuse a 100 micro. Henry and then it goes to two separate Bridge fires.
They could have just used one, but they've used two separate Bridge bars feeding two smoothing capacitors. That's quite odd because then it just feeds two parallel supplies. They've literally just done a cookie cutter copy of the power supply right down the middle, including two class-wise suppression capacitors. Very, very odd.
The chip is an SDC 5091t Hydro blank In that it's a very simple chip. it's only got a few connections. Maybe you guys will have more luck finding that. On the output side, we have two notable things on one section: the circuitry.
If I bring this in. Uh, on one side of the circuitry, we have a shortcut diode just as the rectifier on the secondary side. On the other side, we've got a synchronous rectifier. Um.
And then we get to optimizely. Just the two up twice leaves important, as are the four three one. These are little voltage regulators and they're actually controlled from these vertical stacking modules, which are quite odd. It's these down tiny little modules here.
Let me show you a close-up of those little modules. Anything else worth mentioning here? Not really. There's a snubber network to the power supply. There's the feedback circuitry with opt to isolator.
It's very, very simple. It's one of the most extraordinarily simple little chips I've come across. It must be a rip-off of another chip. The little stick up modules here have, um, mixed functionality.
The small one is just for a single output and It can use this chip Mark n603 and then underneath it says DH again I Drew a blank in that, but it can negotiate uh voltages for that socket. depending the communication it gets. the other side is doing double duty. It has two mosfets.
One is switching power to this socket on board, but the other one is actually monitoring the data lines and switching power and controlling the external USB connector. This connector here, it's actually tied in. it's switched through this little module. I'll show you the circuit board. that may make more sense I Could also mention this Uh chip here: 6606 ACA and then a date code 2230 33 Speaker 2022 I Drew applying for 6606 ACA I Tried other keywords including like uh, you know, quick charge or stuff like that The various USB permutations I had no joy whatsoever. Here is the circuitry: I've drawn one section and left off a bit the output circuitry because uh, the chips. Again, there's no date in them. It's quite hard to decipher them, but this is the main bit we're interested in.
Here's the one micro Henry inductor on live and we get neutral there and it goes to the redirect fires and then to a 50 mega fire capacitor to give the supply for the switchboard power supply. Here is the primary winding and there's the little snubber Network across it. Quite unusual to save space in the circuit board on one of the capacitor and resistor down here in the diode up there. The point of the Snapper network is that when this chip turns off, there's initially as the field collapses before the sector side kick in, there's a sharp voltage transient.
This capacitor absorbs that via this diode and it only absorbs a Tingler portion. and then it's uh, the rest energy gets dumped through to our side, but then this resistor just keeps trickle, discharging that just to make sure it's ready for the next. Spike Here's the chip. the SDC 5091t Very minimalist.
It's got the Uh connection. It's got no sense resistors. it just seems to be fixed. It's got a connection to the zero volt reel.
It's got its own little 22 megafied power supply capacitor and then the feedback from the hot wife's later with a two key resistorant, capacitor, crossover, filtering, and stability presumably not sure quite how it must use a current limited Supply inside to trickle itself a supply voltage from the primary circuit. there is a 2.2 Nano fire capacitors. There's two of them, so that's going to be extra juicy. On the other side for Simplicity I've used the shot key side because the circuitry is identical after that, apart from when it goes out to the actual chips.
So there's a shortcutive that's doing the right thing. no snubber across it and there is a 688 microfarad 16 volt polymer capacity. Look if it is the red capacitors, the ones the solid polymer electrolyte. I Think you can't really tell I'm pretty sure there will be standard cheap electrolytics branded as polymer just because that's what China's like at times.
Here is the LED in the optizator. it's signaling back to that side and initially current can flow through this one key resistor. There's a 2K resistor across the LED for stability and then it's got a 431 which is at the absolute classic uh voltage reference component little three pin component that you supplier 2.5 volt reference via a divider onto its control pin and uh, you can set voltage threshold which will turn on. So in this case they've got 100K resistor under 95.3 K resistors. So that effectively say that's going to be just near as best as near half the supply rail of 5 volts. So initially when you power this up, this thing is programmed past current at 5 volts and when it does so, it lights the LED and it basically regulates this back so it just keeps a constant 5 volts. The circuitry here can actually pull that. this resistor it can bypass it can pull it down lower so that this, uh, so the voltage on there has to go higher, but it's going straight to the pin of a chip it doesn't have I Thought it was going to switch in other resistors, but it does.
It seems to be going straight to some sort of digital to analog converter perhaps. and what? Whenever that kicks in, it can basically monitor Supply real and it can actually put an extra effectively load on this until it sees the supply reel reach. What It Wants It's very unusual, very peculiar, and technically speaking, if it's programmed or cut out at uh, two volt to to Hampshire see as it did technically speaking, I Don't think they're going to negotiate above 15 volts because these are 60 volt capacitors. It does say in the the Guide that you know it quotes ridiculous for which is it doesn't go up there.
It's not that would exceed the rating these capacitors, but it does make me think that if it did go as far as 15 volts, it might not. Maybe it just goes nine, but it might be 15. Uh, then uh, that multiplied by the two under both sides would be about 30 watts each side theoretically. And then we have this weight.
The circuit board weighs 27 grams. The weight they put on top is 26 grams. Aside from the fact that Transformers are probably not wound to our standards, this matter weight was just placed on it, wasn't stuck on it, hadn't had the backing peeled off here, so it was kind of loose to move and in doing so, it could basically bridge between the the grounded, met or output and it could ground to the sidewalk past and potentially a breed through it if it was loose and that wouldn't necessarily give a direct connection, but it means that it breaks the sort of Separation distance because the shells of capacitors are not rated for handling. Although they're not directly connected to the two connections.
it's not something you should consider as being sort of isolated either, so that's very strange. but they've doubled the circuitry just for the steel weight just stuffed into that case. But there we have it. It's not as bad as I thought it was going to be.
but it's not great either. It is just a peculiar little thing. But there we have it. The kind of expensive, uh, unit that I should have tested further. But you know what? I just was not going to plug expensive devices into a cheap well. Not or expensive. uh, unidentifiable power supply from China because you just don't really know if it's unbranded. You just don't know the standards of isolation and plug an expensive device into that is not a good idea, just in case it goes bang.
But there we have it. It did contain surprises. It also contained a bit of deception. It's the crappy USB power supply from eBay.
Clive, coming back to this video now that I know a bit more about things…
The reason the feedback circuit doesn't just flip in different resistances is so the supply can vary the output voltage as the device requests, via the Programmable Power Supply (PPS) feature added in the USB PD 3.0 spec. The idea is optimizing the input voltage to best charge the battery.
As for the two independent supplies, this makes sure one of the outputs can supply max wattage, while the other two are splitting up the wattage capability of the other supply. The other two ports have to be at the same voltage, and if you connect something, the other port will temporarily shut off while it re-negotiates. There's definitely some excess duplication, though, and no way can this do 65W.
As for not wanting to plug expensive devices in, there are newer USB testers that can query and negotiate with PD and QC2.0/3.0 supplies. It's great for seeing what they support, and triggering the higher voltages to feed into a load tester. I personally like my FNB58, but there are other options on the market.
i would not want to expose my phone battery or any batter i own to 65 watts. sheesh. id rather have my batteries last longer, i dont mind charging longer, whats the rush?
£15 is cheap. I need a new charger for my phone, and it's £39.
what makes the higher quality chargers so much heavier? more complex circuitry? higher rated and thus larger components?
Your power plugs in the UK are great. In the US, a heavier charger box leans away from the wall and eventually exposes the prongs.
i dont like how these scammers dirty the name of well respected companies.
👍 👍 👍 Good stuff.
To be fair to the random lump of metal, I've got a few things(every remote I own, and a few computer mouses) that would be improved immeasurably by the addition of a lump of metal.
Of course, there's a difference between a lump of metal just randomly in a power supply that might possibly lead to undesirable operation and a lump of metal to improve the feel when used.
I've seen a lot worse. Thanks, that was different and interesting. It's a pain when the charger that came with your phone or computer fails since the prices the manufacturers want for a new one are insane. Are there any reputable brands of aftermarket chargers?
15 gbp for an 65W charger 🤣
15 pounds quite expensive? dunno but good charges of this wattage are around €40-50 at least, so imho 15 pounds is dead cheap for this charger.
How does the 2.2nf capacitor work? Does this simply provide stabilization / transient protection ?