An insect Zapper from eBay Such thrills! This one was described as the 2 watt LED version. It was the smallest of the range. They also did them with fluorescent tubes as well as the LED arrays. and I'm not sure why they say two watt because when you plug it into the happy, it registers as lights up a nice deep purpley color and it registers as 1.1 Watts So not quite the two Watts promised.

there are one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten. there are 20 uh, near ultraviolet LEDs and an electrified glue glid indeed. I should poke it. Oh that I should warn you before I do that because that would make a loud speaker pop as well.

This yeah. speaker pops. So I'll unplug it now. and when I unplug it I'm going to short this out again because it does hold a charge.

I've checked this so there's going to be another speaker pop. sorry loudspeakery electrical pops. The instructions that came with this say pest killer. The mosquitoes, flies, and some other pests are attracted by the lifting bulb of the insect killer to go inside and were killed by.

The electrical web can be used in a restaurant. Nope. A hotel? Nope. Hospital Nope.

Office home and other places which require the insect killer. Uh, you've not touched electrical web with hand or electrically conductive materials. This is probably a good idea. It must be placed at least a meter away from gasoline and uh, petroleum.

Um, please remember to disconnect before changing the bulb. Absolutely. Uh, switch off when you go out. That's kind of pointless for insect killer and moisture can damage in short circuit electrical plants, so don't take it in the bath with you.

That is quite important. Now, it did come with a sticker in the bottom noting that this is a double insulated ish. Appliance Well, by Chinese standards. Anyway, I moved the sticker onto this little flycatcher plates so we could enjoy it together.

Cautions: the metal shell To ensure safety, you must connect the ground wire before use it. Actually, it's not uh to. You must connect the ground wine before using I'll I'm all for the wine, but there is no facility to ground this. There is a high tension net in the Lin set.

Killer: You must disconnect electrical source and release electricity of the high tension net. If you clean the dead mosquitoes, flies and pets, the Persian must be a skilled man who assemble and disassemble it, so nothing few leads him afraid. it's only men who are allowed to work in this. Apparently that's very gender biased.

I'll put the Uh the hobby out the way at the moment and the first test, as always, will be it's got a square pin plug in it. Let's pop the fuse out and see if it still operates with the fuse out. We'll also check what type fuse it's got says it's a three amp fuse which is good. Plug it in, Does it light? It doesn't light.

Let's double check that that is actually on the track connection here. Continuity: It's on the cracked pin. Note that it's got a plastic Earth pin. That's fine.

This thing is not grounded, whether it should be ground or not. It's a debatable thing, but having said that, I'm guessing that might be because the Grid in here will be powered pretty much directly from the means via a multiple voltage multiplier. and I'm Reckoning that there's going to be a simple capacitive dropper for the LEDs uh on the back. It kind of loses points already for the fact that insulation is broken and the wire.

it's kind of fragile there. Uh, so where it goes in, it's exposing the blue conductor now. I'm gonna guess that all the electronics are in this end here. Let's pop it off.

Oh, there's we switched on the side. didn't even notice that. I'm not sure I'd rely on that switch as being safe isolation when opening it up in any way to well not change the tuberance bar or but try and brushing it out. So they did Bigger versions with longer strips of LEDs I Chose the LED one just because I'm kind of interested there once the Flies are out to see if it does actually attract flies.

I'm not convinced that uh, near UV this 400 nanometer wavelength is actually that appealing to flies. What's that circuit board? Do we have? What sort of circuit board do we have? Well, that comes off quite neatly and far as a screw. Oh, there's the bust of multiplier. Actually, this is also the it's one circuit board for both.

Right tie? What? Interesting. He fingered all the connections. Uh, the switch is indeed it's It's on the neutral. so they've switched the neutral instead of the live.

So yes, if you turn that switch off, you could still get a shock off this. That's lovely. That's that's very affirming, right? Tell you what? I'm going to take the circuit board out and we'll take a closer look at it one moment, please. Okay, let's explore.

Let's just zoom down this just a little bit right? So the circuitry divides into two very distinct sections. It literally, it's half. the circuit board is the LED power supply and half of it is the voltage multiplier. We have a capacitive dropper based on this 300 nanofired capacitor with a 100 ohm resistor for inrush in series, and then a 2.2 microfard 400 volt 2.2 megafar 2.2 microfarad 400 volt capacitor for smoothen.

We've got a bridge right far in the back, and then we've got two connectors in parallel, which is odd. They could have actually wired them in a series I Wonder if that's just because this can also Drive Quite large. Uh, LED strips. Now this is one of the LED strips here.

They just literally slide out and they've got a connection. Then and all we have here is a 200 Ohm resistor in series with 10 LEDs needs to look almost like 2835, but they've got a lens in the front of them. Quite neat. The multiplier section for the high voltage grid has four capacitors forming a positive and a negative voltage multiplier with a 1K resistor in series for current limiting and Rush limiting.

Um, interesting. It's got a position here for another resistor, but it's just like linked. This circuit board has weird tracks all over it. It's just like the design has been shuffled and modified, but it's got the four diodes you'd expect.

The high voltage multiplier. That's pretty much it. There's really not too much to this. it's very.

It's very textbook if you will. Let's bring in the schematic. Here is the schematic. The first part of this schematic is the LED power supply.

So the neutral comes over to the capacitor for the capacitive dropper 319 nanofarad 400 volt, uh, 470k discharges to cross that kind of a midpoint given what's going on in the high voltage side, and a 100 ohm resistor in series for in Rush limiting. Then there's a bridge rectifier with the live going straight to the other AC input. The output has that 2.2 megafar 400 volt capacitor. Nice.

They've used 400 volts. Technically speaking, the voltage across each of these strips is going to be around about 40 volts because each LED I measured them in there at about 20 milliamps, it was about 3.3 volts across each. LED But the LEDs there's 10 LEDs and Sears with that 200 Ohm resistor going to the negative and uh, this is where really they could have put those two in series and then dropped the value of this resistor plus the um this capacitor possibly to 220 nanofard but they did it this way which is quite strange. The other part of the circuitry is the zappy bit the high voltage bit.

It is a very simple dual voltage multiplier with the live going VR 1K resistor to the bottom of these two 479.5 600 of Oak plasters. They're all 400 something out of our fired 600 volts and then the neutral goes up to these uh other two capacitors and then to the output and as the polarity changes the AC changes. The current flows through this diode and charges up this capacitor and then the larger changes it pushes it on to that faster and doubles the voltage. So you end up with about 600 ish volts on either side and because the diodes are pointing towards that end, that's the positive 600 volts and because it points away from that end, that's a negative 600 volts between them you'll get about 1 200 volts and that's what makes the loud cracks and pops and destroys insects very straightforward.

Nothing really terribly surprising. Things that are nice in this is the fact that ultimately from a safety perspective the high voltage capacitors are kind of reference to neutral. Not really matters. It's all going to be a very bad experience if you touch them anyway.

and even with the the live going through that other capacitor, it's going to pass more than enough current to completely ruin your day. So that is it. The Insect Zapping Unit I'll bring the whole thing back up again and I'll show you how this LED strip just literally goes into every channel. Can can that thing come out? No, it's kind of fastened in uh, but it goes into a channel and then just slides down the inside and then just plugs across and onto the connector.

here. it'll be way out of focus because the position I'm in and that is it. So there it is. a typical insect killer.

It's just really what you'd expect. It's pretty much like one of the plug-in ones, but just scaled up to a much larger size so it'll be interesting. I might try this out not that we have many flies here, but uh, if I spot any of our I'll plug it in and see what happens. but quite an interesting device.

so that is it. the Tigger Global that's where it came from this uh, seller on eBay but to be honest, this sticker is just like stuck on squint and they've just sort of branded it I think uh to suit to their Ebay listing. but there we go. the cheap eBay Insect Zapper.