This is actually sold as a complete product ready to go, but as with many of these things you really have to treat it as an unfinished product and do all the final bits yourself.
It does offer very good value for the components though, and is an ideal base for many personal outdoor projects.
I wonder where these are actually used in real life. Do people install them as wall mounted alley lights in China or even as pole mounted lights for actual path or street lighting?
Some afterthoughts...
The screws that hold the LED panel onto the back of the housing were very short and two stripped their threads while being tightened without excess force. Not sure the size, but an M3 screw wasn't a direct fit.
The earth connection was the same screw and the same inadequate tapped hole as it often is. The factories that make these don't seem to understand that attaching the earth is supposed to mean a solid electrical connection and not just to keep it loosely out the way.
For those that will inevitably say that it will be grounded by the pole or wall bracket it's mounted on, there may not be a ground on that either. Especially a wall bracket.
If using this panel I'd downgrade the driver to 20W, attach the earth connection properly and check that the panel retention screws were holding it in place properly, replacing them if necessary.
Other than that, the fitting is an interesting twist on the older units with classic 1W LED beads and discrete lenses. The use of a traditional driver is interesting, as I was expecting it to be a DOB PCB (Driver On Board) using the simple current regulation chips.
The seal on the front looks decent and theoretically the position of the flex entry hole should prevent water ingress while allowing the fitting to breathe.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
It does offer very good value for the components though, and is an ideal base for many personal outdoor projects.
I wonder where these are actually used in real life. Do people install them as wall mounted alley lights in China or even as pole mounted lights for actual path or street lighting?
Some afterthoughts...
The screws that hold the LED panel onto the back of the housing were very short and two stripped their threads while being tightened without excess force. Not sure the size, but an M3 screw wasn't a direct fit.
The earth connection was the same screw and the same inadequate tapped hole as it often is. The factories that make these don't seem to understand that attaching the earth is supposed to mean a solid electrical connection and not just to keep it loosely out the way.
For those that will inevitably say that it will be grounded by the pole or wall bracket it's mounted on, there may not be a ground on that either. Especially a wall bracket.
If using this panel I'd downgrade the driver to 20W, attach the earth connection properly and check that the panel retention screws were holding it in place properly, replacing them if necessary.
Other than that, the fitting is an interesting twist on the older units with classic 1W LED beads and discrete lenses. The use of a traditional driver is interesting, as I was expecting it to be a DOB PCB (Driver On Board) using the simple current regulation chips.
The seal on the front looks decent and theoretically the position of the flex entry hole should prevent water ingress while allowing the fitting to breathe.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
No ma'am thank you very much for the disgusting ugly slim grey black boxes of cold light.. I much rather stick with my cast iron shell soviet fluorescent street light from 1960s with three 40 watt tubes and a starterless autotransformer ballast that weighs literaly 10 kilos and the minimum width pipe you can hang the whole fixture on is 50mm. I like the noise of the ballast inrush current magnetic field vibrating the whole body of the fixture as the tubes flicker their way into full output while the ends glow in deep red color. It drives all three 4 foot tubes in series, the arc voltage is 640 volts and the starting peak voltage is 2000 volts I measured and fried my cheap chinese multimeter with it lol
Apart from the usual earthing issues from Chinese imported appliances, this fitting is pretty good quality.
Where can you buy the replacement led panel for the street lights. I have 2 I P65 lights that have burnt out after 4 year's.
I've watched like 20 of your vids, and I'm still not totally sure what your channel is, but I love it.
Very surprised that there is an earth but i suspect at least 2 of the LED chips are duds. Need a variac to lower the input and find the dud chips.
I like that the cable opening isnโt sealed because if water does happen to find its way in, as long as the cable slot/pole hole is open then it can evaporate instead of just staying in there and corroding like hell.
Thereโs no such thing as waterproof. Water will always get in. Or air will condensate with rapid temperature changes. Leaving moisture inside. So Leaving a bit of an exit strategy sure helps things air out and last longer. Thatโs been my opinion spending several years repairing industrial electronics that have been long used and abused.
why didnt you take apart the psu? ๐
Why don't these Led streetlights have any PE cells?
I personally think that they didn't use enough thermal compound.
Hi, I have a question related to 6v diodes. I removed two strips with 7030 LED diodes from the old TV. Each strip has 44 LEDs and I wonder how can I connect them to 220v?
It is diy?