This rather neat Delight is a restaurant or about gas home rechargeable light from AliExpress and it's sold for restaurants and it's got a slight touch sensor issue here. As you can see, it's just let's up code for it: Touch it again, it goes Warm White touch again, it goes uh, cold and warm white and touch again, it goes off. Maybe it'll just re-trigger again because it has been re-triggering all the time I've moved it anywhere near this table I Think there's a sort of maybe a random field in the vicinity, but it has the the USBC socket in the base and then the top. It's got the large cover and then in the middle.

I Think this is supposed to be the touch sensitive bit, but it also seems to respond to the outer edge being touched. although maybe that's too large an area for a touch sensor. However, it's got an interesting Quirk let me turn the light off and uh, show you the quirk. So I shall turn it on and then I shall just tame that down a bit so you can actually see it.

and if I switch through. So we've got the code white, the warm White and the both colors. If I switch to say the worm white and then I touch it and hold it. it dims down and you can dim it up and down.

But here's the interesting thing: if I touch it again, the full intent, the uh, full color, the cooldown one way is it for intends to off the code wipes that feel intensity, but it stores a separate memory setting for each of the colors right? Watch your eyes. The light is coming back. So let's take this apart and the first thing that I noticed is the bottom unscrews and unscrews to reveal. And this is where the well, it kind of unscrews.

This is where. oh, it's actually just jump thread. Oh, this is good. That's not a great start is it? And the the other end is just going into full disco mode.

This is an excellent product. Oh, it's actually jammed. Uh, one moment please? Okay, uh. while this is just going completely nuts, I'm glad I'm not Shilling this product because that would be a very embarrassing.

Well, it's a really great product. You know everybody should buy it. It doesn't normally do this I'm sure the ones you buy wouldn't do it. so thankfully this is a completely independent.

uh, tear down. Uh, if it jumps thread like it did there, it's impossible to unscrew until you've taken something heavy and smashed it back onto the right thread. Okay, now we've done that. We can see inside that there's an 18650, a soul 18650 held in place by metal washers.

I'm not sure I Like that. let's unplug this. That's the uh. the LED's other end unplugged.

I'll tell you what I'll unplug the cell as well because I Also notice that the uh, the circuit board is just wedged against the metal surface. Hold on. Let's get this out. This looks like just the power socket board.

but I don't like the fact it's Thankfully, it's just single-sided. That's good because I was wondering if this was the whole sided that could be. There's a risk that it could short against that. Okay, this is good.

This is a good start. Uh, so we can reverse engineer this. Although, to be honest, I'm seeing what is probably a Tp4056. Let me just take a look at this.

They've clearly had other circuitry in mind. Tp4056: Okay, um, doesn't have the required resistors for the I Don't think it does. No, it doesn't. It's not got the resistor so it wouldn't necessarily.

uh. charge off a smart charger. Let's try and unscrew this. now.

Does it unscrew? Oh, this is better. There's a plastic I Wonder if that's why it was triggering and does this pull right through this connector? Yes. Okay, so this is much more manageable. now.

how does this kind of fire up? Does this unscrew? I Think it does midday. Oh, it is on the screen. Very modular. Yes, it is.

I'm sure we can do something with it. It's fabulous and buy one. No. The circuit board is just one kit right off center in here.

The touch sensor is going up to this little metal plate at the top. is the metal plate properly isolated? I See that I Got the wires run out here and they've drilled a hole in the side here where it comes through. Uh, that means I can't really get that uh, nut off? can? I What happens if I Um, the right table? I'm gonna have to desolder these wires and pull this out one moment, please? right? The bars are off. Let's unscrew this and see what else comes apart and we'll take a closer look at the circuit board.

So there is a metal washer that holds that circuit board in place. Uh, there is the antenna just basically around the top and this presses down on it. Uh, it was triggering to absolutely everything though. and I think that's just purely the vicinity of the circuit board and its General ground to everything.

All right. So what? Let's uh, pull off this, feed it through that initially a tread gas, it just glued in. Oh, there's glue there for the sucker board as well and it is a single-sided circuit board. Again, Okay, right, let's reverse engineer this one moment.

Please, Reverse engineering is complete. Let's explore. Not just reverse engineering, but I've also printed a new spacer. This is the original spacer three millimeters thick I've printed a six millimeter thick one on the 3D printer just to see if that helps with the spacing of the touch sensor.

So we start off with the well: I'll Zoom down this and then I'll get even closer. This is the charge circuitry. It's the circuit board at the bottom, but it turns out there is a three pin connector facility that plays for it for the two channels of LEDs, the warm White and the cold white and also this connector here which has two pins, but they're both come together. It's a touch input and the circuitry up at the top is emulated down here with two mosfets, the 700 chip and then the charging circuitry.

Let me show you the circuit board closer up for the bit we're interested in, which is this area down here? So close up. In fact, I'll just zoom out just to be technology. Zoom out that, that's fine. So what we have here, We have a GL 4056 which is a classic Tp4056.

Lots of different manufacturers ripping it off just adding their own letters. It's got a 1.5 K program resistor. There's a 1K resistor for the two LEDs a couple of capacitors. That's it.

The back power goes out to the battery and uh also parallel Loops to the lighting up at the top, but if the circuitry was at the bottom, it could literally just have had the touch contact at the bottom and then the wiring going up to the top to LEDs. Here's a USB connector here without its Uh pins for identifying it. So smart Chargers may not like this device. Let's take a look at their schematic.

It's very, very simple. The bottom circuit board is literally Usbn at the company capacitor. one resistor for the two LEDs um charge and standby. It's got The programming resistor on that chip and then it's got the output with the covering capacitor and then the Lithium Cell Lithium L I so that puts out roughly about 4.2 volts.

That's it. Let's take a look at the next circuit board, which is the circular circuit board at the top. Let me put it down this way: this has the touch sensor chip and two mosfets and then it's got one common positive bus that runs around inside these: LEDs It's got the cold white LEDs Now it's worth mentioning they've marked on why that mean usually means yellow in Chinese for the warm White and The W would normally be the white for Coldplay, but they've actually got them reversed. Doesn't really matter, but the LEDs award.

There's a common bus bar for the outer LEDs the code flight ones and then a common Bus Barn the inside here for the uh, warm white ones. and each pair of LEDs has a 60 Norm resistor. So it's there's 10 sets I Think there's 10 sets one two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, ten, ten pairs of each color and then they're going back to these mosfets. Let me show you the circuitry down here.

Well, it's always worth mentioning they've kept so many options open. There is a place for a circuitry here. not sure what that is. a different pin out from another trip.

Also, there's a three pin connector here for actually running the effect that effectively Echoes these LEDs It might have been that that was a the connection that went down to the bottom if they decide to have the touch sense at the bottom, but here is the circuitry up at the top I will just go out a little tiny bit for this. It has this mysterious 700 chip because the Pena is exactly the same as the circuit board at the bottom and uh, we've got the power supply Community here with the option of a connector, loads of options, a decoupling capacitor, a position for a voltage regulator is not used but a hundred Ohm resistor fitting a capacitor to provide a stable supply to the little chip. It's got a little capacitor going between negative to one of the pins which is to do the touch sensing and then it's also a 1K resistor on the output with this pink line going over to the touch sensor and then it drives the A2shp mosfetch directly. So this is a dedicated chip just for this particular function.

Let me show you the schematic: I Have to flip the page here for the schematic I shall zoom in So we have the positive rail coming from the batch at the bottom of zero volt reel, we've got the decoupling capacitor. We've got that little uh decoupling circuit which just basically protects the microcontroller mix gives it a stable Supply When these LEDs are being positive modulated and the voltage is fluctuating that line a bit. Um, so this resistor limits current to charge a capacitor like a little Reservoir almost like a thin pipe fitting that Reservoir capacitor so that the fluctuations are ironed out. Uh, there's the negative connection.

There's a little capacitor which I presume is for timing for the capacitive touch sensor. There's the touch sensor with the 1K resistor and I would say to protect presumably against electrostatic discharge I'd guess. And then we've got the outputs to the two mosfets and then 10 pairs of the the cold white LEDs with the 16 ohm resistor and 10 pairs of Warm White LEDs with six to Ohm resistor power two LEDs That is it. So now now I am going to Uh, put this thing back together and it will involve Fitness Soldier and soldering stuff together.

So I'll pause. But one thing I'll show you before I do that is this. This is quite nice. So this is a elongated slot in it.

When you put it in here, see the Uh USB slot there. When you put it in and sit in these Packer washers they put in and slide out to that it actually slides out into that uh slot because it can because of that Groove there. and it means that the USB connector is actually flush with there because the circuit board itself is acting acting as a little sort of spacer and just buffering it to thickness of the metal. It's quite nice, right? I'm going to put this back together and we'll test again one moment, please.

The device is now reassembled and is kind of Behaving itself. Now, it still does react to the rim being touched, even though it's not technically speaking part of the touch socket, it's just really sensitive to that. However, the main touch interface now, which is raised up here is, uh, much better. I Think does that glow slightly? Oh, it does because I used a clear spacer.

There is a bit of glow coming through the circuit board. That's quite nice. However, now I can show you as it is supposed to be. You touch it once and it comes on at chord right.

You touch it again, it comes on it one way. Touch it again. It has the intermediate weight and if you say for instance, intermediate why, you touch and hold to dim it right down to the minimum setting where you'll be able to see all the LEDs there when you cycle it round Again, it doesn't automatically just go off. If you leave a big delay it, you do have to cycle through, but touch it off, it comes on it.

The full intensity for the code phone tends to Warm White and then that lower intensity you set for other colors and you can set, uh, all three of those options. the warm, my code fight and intermediate fight at any intensity set and remember it. but that is it. Um, it's quite a nice little light.

I Suppose you could demonstrate this now by just base hook up. That's Huge. That is Huge. I shall put it over here and I shall turn it on to the Uh Warm White setting and I shall take the exposure off and then I shall turn the light off and you can see there we go.

That's uh, I'll try the other sentence. that's uh, the low I'll bring that up to the fuel. that's the joint fight, that's a double weight. Uh, that's off.

That's The Cold Light Warm White and the intermediate way. The bench lighting is set up to sort of average about 4 000 Q I think here, so that is probably the closest one matching to this. The others will look very orangey or very cold. but there we go.

It works. Now that I've spaced that a bit better and it's a it's a reasonable enough to say it's a nice design. It just seems a little bit flawed in its original implementation.