The use of a standard CR2032 lithium cell in one of these switches is a refreshing change from the common miniature 12V batteries. It should theoretically have a very long operational life.
The switch came with the battery separate, but opening it the first time was extremely difficult. I thought it was going to break. I could see some of these being damaged just trying to put the battery in for the first time. Other listings show a battery pull tab.
I've ordered a version with external battery drawer for us to take apart.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
The switch came with the battery separate, but opening it the first time was extremely difficult. I thought it was going to break. I could see some of these being damaged just trying to put the battery in for the first time. Other listings show a battery pull tab.
I've ordered a version with external battery drawer for us to take apart.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Clive. I have been working on an ATtiny85 project to synchronise the fluoros in my garage with the lights built into my garage door opener. After seeing this video I ordered the same remotes (I had originally stocked some 12V YAM controllers and switches). The new remotes arrived today. I was afraid to force the remote open but once I released the bottom latch I could see that the hinge didn't want to come up. Your video images helped a lot.
Long story short, by prising a small screwdriver into the gap on the side, up near the hinge, I found that the hinge more easily came apart without putting any strain on the lower latch.
you have the most amazing selection of products at your _pound stores_. i can't even find these at our big box store.
I think you'll find the majority of current on transmit runs through L1 into pin 3
How can the led light up on all three button presses, when it is only between switch two and three? Isn't there a connection missing between pin 1 and 8?
Jayco uses a similar thing in their caravans, its a sphere thing, but they run 2 cr2032's and come apart a bit differently
I am guessing but the inductor on pin 3 supplies power to the internal RF amp ?
TNX for another cool video !!! 73 N8AUM
I have a wall mounted remote for a roller shutter on my front window, i have never changed the battery in 10 years. also, i have a drum machine that is 20+ years old. Again never changed the battery. All are the CR2032. With the right conditions and small current demand these batteries can live for a long time!
So what's the secret to finding the actual datasheets for components you come across on a board?
I always get frustrated because even when they're labeled, I still have trouble actually finding them unless they're fairly common or well-known components, & find myself spending hours sifting through all of the "datasheet search engine" pages… 😡
In the future, robot kids will still not want to clean up their room.
But Mum will have a remote-control.
GOTO ROOM
REPEAT UNTIL TOYCOUNT=0
FIND TOY
PICKUP TOY
PUT IN TOYBOX
REPEAT UNTIL DUSTCOUNT=0
FIND DUST
SWEEP DUST
PUT IN DUSTBIN
:-] 🙂 :-}
I just heard Mehdi say he was going to build a metal detector, how cool! Maybe you could do a tear down of one, or would that be treading on his toes?
One might lubricate the plastic parts that rub together when the box is being disassembled for battery replacement with a paraffin-based lubricant stick, such as "Door -Ease". I have been using the stuff for decades on screws that hold plastic housings together to keep from wearing out the self-cut threads in plastic bosses.
This is going to be very useful in my cabin. Right now there is one switch to turn on all the lights at one go. I'd like to be able to light up in selectable zones. Now it can be done without having a total rewire – I just need a few of these switches and receivers.
What's the "power fail default" setting on the receivers? Do they default to 'ON' or to 'OFF' after a power failure?
Does anyone know if you can get a 2 switch design where one would be remote, and the other is a traditional mains? The idea being to add a remote table light in addition to an existing ceiling light.
I've tried searching but haven't found anything yet, best I can see is make both remote (Ceiling and table), which I'd prefer to avoid.
Now I challenge you to find one that runs on A/C, so that you can link a regular set of lights up to a wireless set somewhere else in the room.
Can anyone tell me the best place to purchase an electricity meter ( traditional not a smart meter) as Octopus energy want to install a smart meter and I don't want one, they have said in writing that I can employ my own engineer and purchase my own meter as my old sweb meter went wrong a year ago . I have never heard that a person can buy their own meter so need some advice on this .
Looks as though the circuit board could easily be removed (just clips in Ithink) and used in another case. 3D printing a new case could give endless possibilities.
Well I spose that one of the advantages of having these is if you were to have a power cut, only the wall switch would still work! xDxD