This is a faulty ground recessed uplighter that was sent for our exploration by Douglas.
It's a classic example of premeditated landfill, with no replaceable lamp and a sealed case to try and stop water getting in.
They are often mounted into a buried enclosure to ensure that anyone who works on them has to kneel on wet ground and fumble in stinky water to try and make a waterproof connection onto a cable that gets shorter every time a fitting is replaced. They're usually powered from panels where all the RCDs/GFCIs have been bypassed to "fix the tripping issues". (Not a good thing.)
If working on this type of light it's VERY important to ensure power is properly isolated. That can sometimes be difficult when they are fed from random panels and are powered but not lit. Water and electricity are a bad combo for humans.
You can see this type of light littering the pavements of cities and "architectural" areas. They either shoot light pointlessly into space while dazzling pedestrians, or put blotchy skidmarks of light up the side of buildings. They are notable for flickering gently as their corroded LEDs light the internal drops of water on their lens, and occasionally emitting steam from their submerged electrical connections.
You may have noticed I'm not a fan of this type of light. But they do have their place if used as low intensity marker lights, with low voltage power supplies and easily replaced cables going to a nearby pillar.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
It's a classic example of premeditated landfill, with no replaceable lamp and a sealed case to try and stop water getting in.
They are often mounted into a buried enclosure to ensure that anyone who works on them has to kneel on wet ground and fumble in stinky water to try and make a waterproof connection onto a cable that gets shorter every time a fitting is replaced. They're usually powered from panels where all the RCDs/GFCIs have been bypassed to "fix the tripping issues". (Not a good thing.)
If working on this type of light it's VERY important to ensure power is properly isolated. That can sometimes be difficult when they are fed from random panels and are powered but not lit. Water and electricity are a bad combo for humans.
You can see this type of light littering the pavements of cities and "architectural" areas. They either shoot light pointlessly into space while dazzling pedestrians, or put blotchy skidmarks of light up the side of buildings. They are notable for flickering gently as their corroded LEDs light the internal drops of water on their lens, and occasionally emitting steam from their submerged electrical connections.
You may have noticed I'm not a fan of this type of light. But they do have their place if used as low intensity marker lights, with low voltage power supplies and easily replaced cables going to a nearby pillar.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Awesome Video big clive
Linear current regulator! I’ve just found your channel and it’s great, I’ve a dyson dc16 handvac here that just flashed a red light when the trigger was depressed. I’ve read online that the logic boards are faulty and there’s also a Hall effect sensor bypass that works for some, it didn’t for me. I discovered the motor was working and needed an earth to run and I also by poking around that powering a pin on a black thing I know now to be a linear current regulator the motor would run so I cut the wires for the trigger and used them to send a live signal to the linear current regulator, maybe with a few more of these videos I’ll be able to diagnose the board properly, thank you for sharing the knowledge
Hopping you tube, finds a clue
was hopping u would test those chip caps for shorts to prove the possible reason for them , o well still interesting
Seal the lens with Denso tape!
Looking at that pink light you did, I'm now thinking that a cheapy version of these would be perfect for modding into parts for the family dalek.
Got a bit of a Hal vibe at the end.
Am I reading your schematic wrong, or did you put the 1m ohm resistor on the wrong side of the cap?
I have seen countless numbers of these as you say buried in the ground, not working. A lot after a very short period too.
What about fill it with mineral oil and then silicone seal?
If i was going to put a different LED in there for low voltage, i'd probably make it 24V powered and then add a simple 2 transistor type current sink as a regulator. The main transistor could be something in a TO-220 package which you could easily bolt to the heatsink
ohnoes, Clive's a twister!
To be fair, getting parts off of aluminium backed boards is quite difficult. I'd probably twist it off myself. Dont ever do this on regular PCB's though, especially if it's a vintage computer 🙂
Greetings:
I am disappointed that you made no attemp to measure to voltages of the circuit including the output of the regulator. I forgot whether the LEDs fail open or shorted. Could you remove the failed LEDs/caps and placed a multi-LED assy and reused the remainder of the circuit?