This didn't go quite to plan. The screw that holds the chuck onto the output shaft seems to have major threadlock on it, so I didn't get to explore the final clutch stage internally
But it's revealed the PCB module that we're all interested in anyway. I'll leave the proper mechanical teardowns to my Canadian YouTube-bro AvE the tool-teardown master.
First thoughts on the 20V version of the electronics are that the base module only switches off power to the variable speed trigger when it detects a battery with low charge or overheating. Its power supply deserves further investigation, as the module is always powered when the battery is connected, so my thought that it might use a simple resistive dropper isn't an efficient way of doing that.
The thermistor input that enables the tool seems to operate between a resistance of 2K and 68K. The thermistor can be switched off by the battery, so it may be using that to stop the tool when the battery is low.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
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#ElectronicsCreators
But it's revealed the PCB module that we're all interested in anyway. I'll leave the proper mechanical teardowns to my Canadian YouTube-bro AvE the tool-teardown master.
First thoughts on the 20V version of the electronics are that the base module only switches off power to the variable speed trigger when it detects a battery with low charge or overheating. Its power supply deserves further investigation, as the module is always powered when the battery is connected, so my thought that it might use a simple resistive dropper isn't an efficient way of doing that.
The thermistor input that enables the tool seems to operate between a resistance of 2K and 68K. The thermistor can be switched off by the battery, so it may be using that to stop the tool when the battery is low.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
Having already taken apart a 40-volt Ferex tool dual voltage that takes it above the Dual voltage battery pack 20 or 40 volt I Thought it'd be interesting taking Uh 20 volt version apart and I got this one second hand off eBay because it supposedly fault it works but apparently occasionally stopped. allowed clack noise I'm not sure if that'll be a photo if that's when you stop it. sometimes tools do. Am I certainly my Ryobi ones do.
What am I doing here? Let's do the first test. Let's put the meter to continuity an ascertain. Does this just completely connect the two batteries in parallel? So here's two battery connections: Advocate continuity. and here is the other two battery connections.
So it literally is just connecting the two batteries in parallel as soon as you plug it on. Interesting, They should be kind of matched because they're either in series or parallel. Now if I bring in my bench power supply here and I jury rig an electrical connection onto this and I pull the trigger. so this is getting about 16 volts a 5 amp capability.
Nothing happens I pull the trigger. it shows a current of about 24 milliamps but nothing happens and that means it does require the signal from the battery pack to activate and I thought this was going to be something fancy. If I get my Universal resistor substitution box and set it to roughly about 10K and I connect it between the negative and the thermistor pin. then it now sees that the battery is there and that it's enabled.
So let's turn the power supply off. it's not needed. We have proven that it works and that that is a fix you can use to make it run. but keep in mind that the battery packs if you use other battery packs with it.
they kind of need to be able to turn the power tool off when the battery is low because it wants to. lithium cells get too low. The if the drill keeps running, it's going to over discharge the batteries and that's not a good thing. Now to make this easier to disassemble, I have already removed most of the screws I've left to in because that will be a lot faster.
Let me just try and shove this Avalanche of stuff that's happening inside back out the way. it's time for another bench. Tidy! So here's one of the two screws that I have put in and we'll analyze the circuitry bit as well. I'm not sure depending how long this video runs I may analyze the electronic circuitry in another video if it's of note because I think the 40 volt tool probably showed difficult circuitry.
so this may end up just a mechanical video. Okay, I can see a circuit board there. Off comes this oh big motor. Here is the trigger.
There's the common mode style suppression choke trigger comes out. There's no obvious mechanical interlock so that loads clack when it stops. Probably isn't a good thing. Oh, they've just soldered the wires onto these.
They don't seem very big wires do they. Oh, and here's the circuit board that is slightly different. It's a complicated circuit board. It looks a very complicated circuit board. It's probably going to be similar to the other one. Hmm. I Shall pass judgment on whether it's going to cause extreme tedium if I take this one apart as well. So let's uh.
well, there's the little LED comes out as well. and let's lift out the mechanical assembly which is of Interest here. What did I forget to do I forgot to get paper towels to wipe grease off things. So here is the bit that changed gears.
It just basically it rocks backwards and forwards and slides a gear in and out. Oh there's the there's the gearbox Now Someone said they've got one of these. Oh this is where I'm gonna have to get a paper towel one moment please. Paper towel now in place for a placing of components.
So unlike the grinder, this motor is an all-in-one unit. The look of it, it looks like it's the ends have been crimp round. So it is a motor with just a mounting plate on it. Everything looks okay in here.
Carbon brush motor. It's not got. it's not a brushless motor. Uh, let's lift this out.
There is a little metal plate. There is a gear ring. Oh is that a gear ring that slides backwards and forwards by any chance. Oh it is that looks as though um, oh, maybe not.
Um, something to me. Oh I See another gear coming out from the back? Let's let's take that out. Well, let's take a look and count the teeth and see if there's any teeth missing in. this.
looks good so far. I Wonder if these little wheels go in any particular way around? I Shall look at them and see if there's anything obvious. No, they look as though they could go in either way around. Okay.
And then out comes the next gear layer, which is the outer gear on our planetary gear system. Any clues yet as to what this gear shift the shift is? Uh, engaging. I Think it's locking gears together in here. this is going a bit.
Eve isn't it? Oh, there's another planter gear system and it is either I think it's just either coupling through without this one or it's physically locking them all together when that is slid up and it's just bridging everything together so it removes a gearing stage that's reasonable enough that looks like what it's actually doing. Then neat. Let's just tip these out. Then paper towel Are they going to tip out? Some of them are tipping out.
That is them out. And here is the sliding gear that is not going to come out because it's held in place by these right? Tell you what? I shall lever that how I shall wipe the goodies off my fingers and then I shall attempt to just lift this out because I think this is just going to be spring-loaded It's never going to be up to the same quality as it is obviously. Uh, all the teeth are there. It looks okay.
What about these are these little pins going to come out? This little thing came out. Oh, there's another planter gearbox. Is this going to come out? No. This one needs more screws taken out. Uh, I shall pause momentarily. Uh, while I take those screws out to actually explore this one moment. Please, That is that off. And now it reveals another plate and more gears which do all appear to be present in here.
Oh, it's not turning too easily. It's not turning too easily in there. Why is it? uh, not turning easily I Don't think it's because it's locked in any way. That does seem quite odd.
sticking right. Tell you what. Pop them out as well. getting a good collection of Gears here.
Perfect for Jewelers to make jewelry out of found items. I've got a friend who does that. It makes either proper posture or sometimes it gets the origin just makes out of random bitsy finds. Oh, there is the hammer bit.
Oh, with Bob beer. Actually, that's a bit when you click it round. Oh, that might be the ball bearings for the hammer effect that when you lift it, let it slide down onto that it. uh, it hammers I Wasn't really expecting that.
Uh, how does this come apart now? Am I going to have to take it apart from the front? Oh, it spins easily. Now, this isn't necessarily a great thing. Why was that not spinning easily when this was in? Hold on. I'm just going to put that back in.
Why is it not spinning? Is it? because it's okay? I'm not sure what was sticking that there. It's suddenly it's spinning freely now. Oh, it's finator. When that shaft middle is pushed down, it locks tighter.
Still, not quite sure what's happened here. Let's use an inappropriate tool to lift that out. and does this come out? Hmm. Tricky.
Not sure, right? Tell you what. I'm going to have to maybe try and get this off. I'm not really sure how this all comes apart. I'm going to have to use unreasonable Force to do so one moment, please.
Well, that's not going to plan. As with their typical Chuck construction, there's a screw down the center of it and they've really obviously used quite a lot of thread lock in that. also. Perhaps I did this in the wrong order.
Perhaps I should remove the chuck first because as soon as you spin this, of course you, you're going to be spinning the uh shaft the middle. So instead I've tried dremeling the outside to expose it. Really, it's not ideal I'd rather actually take it all out from the end. But this does show that the outer lock that switches the drilling off and also the inner section here that allows you to set the torque of the the slip clutch for protein screws that moves this assembly here up and down in the clutch it is Springwood that is biased towards the bottom, but when you turn it to the Hammer setting it does let it drop a lot lower than it would, which is the point at which it must kind of engage with these uh ball bearings which are coupled through by the look of it from this now not sure which is I'm guessing. Ultimately, the ball bearings are maybe just coupling the impact through from rolling on. This seems quite harsh to ball bearings. uh, but that is about as far as I can go with this without somehow getting that screw out that could require blow torch and then it's a plastic. It's a plastic housing, it's not really designed for disassembly.
is it Eve would have done better. Let's take a look at the circuitry because the circuitry is of more interest to us. So I've noticed that the battery circuit board here has a couple of mosfets and parallel on it. Let me Zoom down this and they are switching power up to this trigger mechanism.
The trigger mechanism does not Loop like it's in any way sending a signal back and this is controlling the speed. It looks purely as though this is either turn the power onto the trigger mechanism or off depending the battery voltage and it will detect detecting that resistance and other signals from the Uh from the battery. This is going to be a difficult circuit board to reverse engineer in the sense it's going to have to get these bigger solder Joints off without melting the plastic. too much.
In this, it will melt. Yes, but I'm noticing already there's the ubiquitous microcontroller. There will be the secretary to drive the mosfets now. I Do notice that they've got their favorite little mosfets.
They'll be tiny ones up here. I Noticed they've also got an LED position here and a little link I wonder what that's about? but also the power supply appears to be going up with a track up the side here possibly and then going through a diode and then a stack of resistors and then it's going to Xeno diode because I don't see any other regulation on this, but that is really something I have to reverse engineer in more detail. Um, so I shall take a look at this in a different video once I've mustered up the courage to start ripping into it. Uh, and I'll probably take a look inside this as well, but this will be quite heavily integrated I'd expect I wouldn't expect it to actually be straightforward come apart and it will just be basically a mass-produced item that's been crammed into a very small space with this little heatsink in the back, but that's as far as I can go at the moment.
I think I've now got loads of metal bits and there's more metal bits somewhere else in the room. Because they pinged, they shot out, they ricocheted about the room. I think it was one of these little things at least departed. but I think more departed.
Certainly, by the sound of it, sounded very clattery. Um, maybe I should have been in shot for that when I explained it was little bits like this. but it's interesting. Very complex construction.
When you consider the price of these power tools, it's quite surprising what they can jam in, ultimately, beyond their transmission. Oh, there's magnetism. Uh, I guess that the motor is one of the Prime components for determining the quality of a tool, how much they've actually spent in the copper and the magnets in this. Because this will be a fairly significant factor in that. But as it is, if you were to strip one of these apart, you get a fairly powerful looking motor and a variable frequency uh, drive for that, a pulse and modulation Drive um and you get the little lockout that couples to the temperature sensor and the feedback given the battery when it simply just disconnects the temperature sensible look of it and just makes that pin open circuit. But that in the meantime is as far as I can go. AV would have done better, But then he's more on the mechanical side. He'd have techniques for removing the uh, the Chuck from these, as do most guys who work in the power tool maintenance business.
But I shall maybe clamp that in some way if I can find a way to clamp it and have a go again. If I do, then I'll cover what's in there. But uh, at this point in time this is far as I can go.
The screw holding the chuck on seems very tight because its a left hand thread… Cheers
Now I want to see a vid of you putting it back together
The Torque Test Channel has some great videos featuring hammer mechanisms.
Chuck screw is usually left-hand thread.
I would love to see an expensive one torn down, and the differences, if any, noted.
Obviously, it's somewhere near the bottom of the barrel, but for 10 quid? . . . That is unbelievable (value) when you consider just basics like materials, labour, design, packaging, logistics etc. etc.
So is it a scookum choocher or not? And you didnt even let the blue magic smoke out. At least your camera was in focus. 😉
Oooh MELFs. Looking forward to the circuit reverse engineering video! AvE just glosses over them. 😁
Most of these brushed drills make a clacking sound when the trigger is released. Releasing the trigger applies a short across then motor to create and inductive brake. When the inductive brake is applied to the motor, I causes the multi-stage gear set to rattle as the backlash between all the gears is taken up.
With my Makita
I did a gearbox swap.
I made the same chuck mistake.
I found a socket that fit the shaft at the back and boy was the screw inside the chuck loctite.
Left hand thread too if I remember.
@arduinoversusevil2025 aka AvE has been pretty skimmpy on his break-down video's lately. I'm glad you're taking over Clive
Well sir I would suggest you try putting your biggest soldering iron down on that screw in chuck. A good long time, to soften thread glue.
Years from now that flying part. the hover will suck it up.
People who don't believe in black holes. Never lost a important part in the shop.
Boltrrrrrrr!
Sweet, Big Clive is doing BoLTRs now! Release the schmooo!
You know I mean this in the absolute best possible way most people if they say one moment please would that kind of a voice it comes across as pompous and stuck up and I just want to punch them but for some reason when you say it it just sounds right 🙂 I don't know why it just does