I've been experimenting with a system called PIV (Positive Input Ventilation) where a fan draws outside air into the attic, filters it, and then pushes it into your home to create a slight positive pressure that results in a steady airflow that displaces stale air out through natural building leakage.
Unlike America, where heating and cooling is done with ducted air, the most common heating system in the UK is still hydronic - a system where hot water is pumped around radiator panels. In older buildings this can result in stale air and mould (mold) issues. The continuous low flow of air using this system can help alleviate that issue. Like a more controlled way of having windows open.
There are commercial systems available that generally have a big slow running fan with speed options and a ducting system to a large vent on an upstairs ceiling. But I initially decided to test the system with a pressure optimised computer fan and some 3D printed adaptors for ceiling mounting with a standard HEPA filter.
I like the effect a lot. You can feel the freshness in the indoor air. But on the very cold or humid days it really needs to be turned off. I may add a temperature and humidity based control system at some point, but for initial tests I decided to add a simple remote control module that is very cheap and common on eBay.
Here's a link to the original video about the receiver:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkhUR_30o0s
Here's how to program this unit and many others that use the same software.
To clear all existing codes, press and hold the button for about 5 seconds until the LED starts flashing, and then release the button and wait for a few seconds as it erases existing codes.
If the LED doesn't start flashing then the unit may use a different erasing technique. Turn it off and on again and then click the button 8 times. That should clear the existing codes.
To program each mode, press the button between 1 and 7 times, observing the brief LED flash with each press. After the required mode has been selected the LED will light to show it's waiting to receive a signal from the chosen remote button.
Press the remotes button and the LED will go out, or if it's the two button toggle mode it will blink and then wait for the second button to be pressed (which doesn't need to be on the same remote.)
If desired you can pair several other remotes by repeating the procedure. They can all have different functions.
Modes:-
1 - Single button momentary action. Non latching.
2 - Single button toggle on/off.
3 - Two button on/off. Each button is assigned independently.
4 - Single button timer 5-second delay.
5 - Single button timer 10-second delay.
6 - Single button timer 15-second delay.
7 - Single button timer 20-second delay.
Some similar units have an adjustable link for setting the mode. It usually offers momentary, latching or two button toggle. The button may only be for learning a code.
These units are common on eBay, usually supplied with a remote switch or key fob with a frequency choice of 433MHz or 315MHz. In the UK 433MHz is a standard frequency.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
Unlike America, where heating and cooling is done with ducted air, the most common heating system in the UK is still hydronic - a system where hot water is pumped around radiator panels. In older buildings this can result in stale air and mould (mold) issues. The continuous low flow of air using this system can help alleviate that issue. Like a more controlled way of having windows open.
There are commercial systems available that generally have a big slow running fan with speed options and a ducting system to a large vent on an upstairs ceiling. But I initially decided to test the system with a pressure optimised computer fan and some 3D printed adaptors for ceiling mounting with a standard HEPA filter.
I like the effect a lot. You can feel the freshness in the indoor air. But on the very cold or humid days it really needs to be turned off. I may add a temperature and humidity based control system at some point, but for initial tests I decided to add a simple remote control module that is very cheap and common on eBay.
Here's a link to the original video about the receiver:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkhUR_30o0s
Here's how to program this unit and many others that use the same software.
To clear all existing codes, press and hold the button for about 5 seconds until the LED starts flashing, and then release the button and wait for a few seconds as it erases existing codes.
If the LED doesn't start flashing then the unit may use a different erasing technique. Turn it off and on again and then click the button 8 times. That should clear the existing codes.
To program each mode, press the button between 1 and 7 times, observing the brief LED flash with each press. After the required mode has been selected the LED will light to show it's waiting to receive a signal from the chosen remote button.
Press the remotes button and the LED will go out, or if it's the two button toggle mode it will blink and then wait for the second button to be pressed (which doesn't need to be on the same remote.)
If desired you can pair several other remotes by repeating the procedure. They can all have different functions.
Modes:-
1 - Single button momentary action. Non latching.
2 - Single button toggle on/off.
3 - Two button on/off. Each button is assigned independently.
4 - Single button timer 5-second delay.
5 - Single button timer 10-second delay.
6 - Single button timer 15-second delay.
7 - Single button timer 20-second delay.
Some similar units have an adjustable link for setting the mode. It usually offers momentary, latching or two button toggle. The button may only be for learning a code.
These units are common on eBay, usually supplied with a remote switch or key fob with a frequency choice of 433MHz or 315MHz. In the UK 433MHz is a standard frequency.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- https://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
afaik instead of soldering it's better to install crimp wire terminals. The solder can oxidize differently and/or react poorly to temperature changes over time or damage. It's probably irrelevant for a tiny module and a fan like that in a home but for more industrial-y or businness-y stuff where you can't just use bare wire it's better to use crimp terminals. They look like a metal cylinder and you put the bare copper strands inside it, and then you crimp it around them
Clive, have you considered using a SONOFF?
Like you say, tinning with solder is fine if the wire won't flex or vibrate.
Ferrules look more professional though, give better connection and are arguably easier to do.
Bare wires with thin wires like these should be a no-no though.
If you are careful with your soldering, it shouldn't be any worse than using ferrules, and I always double over a twisted joint when it goes into one of those connectors whether it's soldered or not. Love your vids mate 👍👍
What I did is that I bought those cheap led lights with the ir remote and wire the brightness control to the 4th pin on a 4 pin fan.
yay pc fan video
I would always use a ferrule when going under screw terminals like these. Takes but a moment to apply (quicker than solder) and doesn't cause any weak spots.
You've done quite a lot more soldering than I have so I'll defer to your knowledge, but I wanted to point out that I once read that the reason you don't tin wires before clamping them is because solder has a tendency to flow, albeit extremely slowly, when under clamping pressure and will eventually lead to a loose connection even if the wire remains intact.
In colder climates they use something called a HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) which uses the exhaust air to partially heat the incoming cold air. This reduces building heat loss, while still allowing air exchange.
In the U.S. deep south we have the opposite. larger fans that blow the hot air into the attic.
Do you have a link for those boxes and relays?
You just gave me an idea for this kind of wireless remote control.
Where the link
My grandparents' house had a huge whole house exhaust fan.