I bought this adaptor from a UK ebay seller. It's designed to convert a lamp with an SES base (Small Edison screw) to a SBC (Small Bayonet Cap) base which is quite common in the UK but has less variety of lamps available with that cap. And quite frankly this item is a total deathtrap. It leaves large areas of exposed metal that will be directly connected to the mains wiring and depending on which way round the bayonet cap end is inserted, will be either connected to mains neutral or mains live. The latter poses a high electrocution hazard as your fingers would naturally close onto the metal and be prevented from pulling off by the lamps globe.
The PROPER type of adaptor would have a guard ring around where the exposed metal is to prevent accidental contact.
Now, a special message for the complete CLOWNS who invariably post comments saying things like "This is safe because you should always turn the light fitting off before changing a lamp." If a light fitting has two way switching or is wired incorrectly there's no way of guaranteeing that it is not live when you change a lamp. It's also debatable whether a table light should have exposed live metal under a shade where you might fumble for an inbuilt on/off switch.

18 thoughts on “Dangerous small bayonet cap to small edison screw lamp adaptors.”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars george manson says:

    great video….. what about the revers situation…..

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Hughes says:

    Thank you. I was wondering why they weren’t being sold in retail shops in Australia.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Boyd Bros. says:

    Be aware – the chinese want you dead, it's a cancer from chinese capitalism. I've gone through hundreds of your videos, and the one common denominator is that the chinese do not care about your health and well being. Maybe because they don't care for even their own culture, there's billions of them, so who cares if a few million or so are killed off by shoddy products as long as you can make money, right?

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Somethingelse says:

    Question
    i know live can be any on the two in a bayonet socket but what about ES
    ones
    yes the outside should not be live for safety but from a working point
    of view can the threads be live

    i ask because i see many cheap LED bulb doublers on Amazon, bayonet to
    two ES and was thinking if they were made wrong or someone just put the bayonet in you have a 50% chance of making the threads live and the threads were
    live would a ES LED bulb still work, baynets LEDs can be ether but can
    ES LEDs

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lee Bartholomew says:

    haven't never thought about it actually. except one that turns Edison 14 to Edison 13 (very small) and I often mistake 14 and 13 … X_X oops. well the pictures look about the same. I have the E14 to E27 converter which looks like the good one above yellow metal on the inside and plastic all around the bulb. even my old E27 to E14 converters seal the CFL's so the metal is not available to my skin :O now if only the cheap LED cob lights were made as well as the CFL's.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars needforsuv says:

    but you can just as easily stick your finger in a e27 socket

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Andrew Malloy says:

    Have you ever tested any of B&Q's Diall GU10 LED lamps? I've just had one fail (got another still working), after only a few years, with minimal use per day (2-4 hrs tops), very disappointed that is has fallen a long way short of its stated 25000 hour life span

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gavin Ward says:

    Ordered some of these off Aliexpress. When they arrived I immediately thought of your channel and then found this video.

    I must rearrange my thought process next time.

    At least on yours, the white bit is actual plastic. On mine, it's black heat shrink tubing.

    I installed them, making sure they were oriented so that the centre pin was live and not the body. Even so I expected them to trip the RCBO with an earth-neutral fault but it seems on my lamp, the metal part that grips the bayonet isn't actually connected to earth. Don't know if that's unusual or not.

    So they do work and I'll keep them for the time being but I certainly wouldn't put them in a desk lamp or anywhere generally accessible. I'm satisfied there's no way they could start a fire which was my main concern.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Blake Jacobi - Sharp says:

    Do you have the link where to buy the and do they sell it in the larger type

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars M N says:

    Thanks for this, I am about to replace all my high wattage candle bulbs in a chandelier, with small screw edison to GU10 sockets….I will look out for the shielded ones xx

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ronplucksstrings says:

    It doesn't surprise me that such a clearly potentially lethal product is even produced…of course one can guess where (it's one of china's finest with ZERO engineering or consideration for safety, I'm sure!) but it's astounding that it makes it all the way to a retailer without being recognized for what it is and finally potentially into the hands of consumers who wouldn't recognize the potential danger until (after) it killed them. The people who make this or even sell this trash should be exposed and possibly executed… better yet, they should be made to use one! Thank you for exposing this. I suggest you forward the particulars to whatever consumer protection agency has the ability to pull them from the market and punish everyone who had anything to do with them!

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Indiskret1 says:

    I still have an oldie lamp holder/socket in my wardrobe which is all brass and very short thread (probably from when the house was built in the 1920's. Really dangerous but I like the looks of it.

    Anyway, one morning I was going to get something but the lamp had gone out, so I wandered in in the dark with a spare bulb in my hand to try and replace the faulty one. My thinking wasn't 100% that early in the morning so I just tried to find the socket by probing in the dark. I HIGHLY advise against doing such a foolish thing as I got a real buzz when I grabbed the open thread on the lamp. Didn't need any coffee after that, my eyes were wide open anyway. 😛

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars THEDRAGONBOOSTER8 says:

    Thanks for that..

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jackson Black says:

    The exposed metal should be the earthed color. You don't need to worry about it, unless your holding it in one hand and screwing in a light bulb with the other hand, while the light is on. Then you might get a shock, as I once did. But its the same risk as with any metal light fitting

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Graham Hart says:

    Ooh! Very good advice (or Public Service Announcement?) you got here! This kind of leads me to inquire about something you may be able to advise me on? I recently ordered a GU10 bulb thinking of one particular desktop lamp that had a GU10 burn out and needed a replacement. Well upon the arrival of the bulb, I failed to find the corresponding lamp in need! However, I do have plenty of empty E27 and E16 (or whatever the smaller one is called) sockets in which I would love to plug/screw this GU10 into! I was wondering if perhaps you could make a video in which you solve this problem DiY/hacker style, as opposed to simply ordering an adapter or 3rd party solution of some sort! I have available Edison sockets of all kinds, from ceramic standalone sockets (not sure what they're really for), to sockets hanging from extension cords, to floor lamps and desktop lamps alike. However, I have sort of chose already to attempt adaptation on a nice pink desktop lamp and have found myself with a really sketchy situation, to where I basically have the two bare wires taped to this non-conductive plate (where they were before) that held the previous assembly and try to make contact with the bulb which is held in there with a couple latches that I believe used to hold in a piece of glass, but my bulb sticks out there far enough I can use the latches to try and hold in the bulb. I haven't got it to make full contact while plugged in yet, however I feel all that is left is to simply pull the wires through the holder a little bit (giving up on the simple contact solution) and simply soldering the bayonets to their respective wire and then obviously that would turn the bulb on, hold it up in the lamp better, and make it much safer with a little heat shrink on each because separation of the two wires just hanging out so close together use waiting for contact can seem a little sketchy when trying to wiggle a bulb into place lol.

    So ya, I was wondering if you had any thoughts or ideas on modding or hacking an E27 socket so that it would accept a GU10 bulb? A DiY GU10 (bulb) to E27 (socket) adapter I suppose?

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jonathan says:

    shit… thanks for the heads up. my hardware stores dont stock any adapters for anything throughout the country, so left to fend for onesself i didnt think id have to be this cautious. Will pay the respect to actually inspect everything I buy now

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars TheChipmunk2008 says:

    I hope you reported it to trading standards, that's absolutely insane

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Seán Byrne says:

    That's crazy about the exposed metal, probably made the same factories that make those uncovered LED cob bulbs. 

    I already saw GU10 to MR16 adapters on eBay and there was nothing about matching the voltage mentioned in the description! I can just imagine someone scoring a bargain on a dozen MR16 LED bulbs and then turning to eBay for a dozen of these adapters to fit their GU10 fittings…  After the fireworks, it wouldn't surprise me if they then blame the bulbs!

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