I added this LED pinspot to an order while I was buying some stuff on ebay, just to take a look at it. It was described as being a 240V unit with a 3-5W LED and had the cryptic advice that I would need to add my own plug.
It arrived with the box marked as being for 12V DC at 2A and had two beefy wires coming out of it, one red and one black.
I played safe and hooked it up to 12V DC and nothing happened. An internal examination revealed that it had a mini switching power supply (most likely a generic 3W one), so I decided to give it a go on 240V. It worked on 240V although once again the back metal housing is completely unearthed and I don't trust any of these mini supplies to have proper isolation from the mains due to the choices of components, clearance and the way the transformers are often would with the secondary straight on top of the primary.
It does produce a decent narrow beam with a square image of the chip being projected quite a distance. The power consumption is less than 3W which is normal for a lower voltage red LED (2-2.5v) on a typical 3W power supply designed for white LED lights (3V).
The alignment of the LED is not quite perfect. There are screw holes for clamping down the star-style LED, but it is stuck down with thermally conductive silicone instead. The collimating lens in front of the LED is stuck in place with soft silicone-like goo and the front lens is clipped in with a metal ring if I remember correctly.
All in all, it would actually work well with a modest throw in a dark nightclub environment, and the heatsink is more than enough to allow continuous operation. The lack of an earth and indeed a proper flex is annoying, but not critical as long as the light was clamped onto a grounded truss.
The back heatsink housing is all aluminium alloy and the front section is plastic. It looks quite hackable for different colour LEDs.
It arrived with the box marked as being for 12V DC at 2A and had two beefy wires coming out of it, one red and one black.
I played safe and hooked it up to 12V DC and nothing happened. An internal examination revealed that it had a mini switching power supply (most likely a generic 3W one), so I decided to give it a go on 240V. It worked on 240V although once again the back metal housing is completely unearthed and I don't trust any of these mini supplies to have proper isolation from the mains due to the choices of components, clearance and the way the transformers are often would with the secondary straight on top of the primary.
It does produce a decent narrow beam with a square image of the chip being projected quite a distance. The power consumption is less than 3W which is normal for a lower voltage red LED (2-2.5v) on a typical 3W power supply designed for white LED lights (3V).
The alignment of the LED is not quite perfect. There are screw holes for clamping down the star-style LED, but it is stuck down with thermally conductive silicone instead. The collimating lens in front of the LED is stuck in place with soft silicone-like goo and the front lens is clipped in with a metal ring if I remember correctly.
All in all, it would actually work well with a modest throw in a dark nightclub environment, and the heatsink is more than enough to allow continuous operation. The lack of an earth and indeed a proper flex is annoying, but not critical as long as the light was clamped onto a grounded truss.
The back heatsink housing is all aluminium alloy and the front section is plastic. It looks quite hackable for different colour LEDs.
Shame it didn’t go bang
I wonder if it could be modified in such a way, that the beam becomes even narrower / parallel?
We have a 30 watt quad colour eBay special to shine at a mirror ball however I think they maybe telling porkies on the led wattage it is very dim not suitable for events. Even a bicycle lamp is brighter. Don’t have a meter to check it’s wattage but I really doubt it’s 30watt
Why did you use the WAGOs? Did you not have the Quicktest back then?
do you have a video on your bench power supply and do you recommend say in my country a cheapie $30 some Bench power supply (or worse the DIY ones off banggood which I'm not really sure if I'd wannt try. I do like the Main's voltage term way better than ours. Power vs Mains. hmmm or live ground neutral.
i like the part were you like what the worsty that code hapin o it cood go bang
The black and red cable looks like standard single insulated speaker wire to me… Which yikes.
Better than having a LASER which could start fires if pointed at anything flammable.
Those gray and orange connectors you used to attach two wires look very useful. I've never seen them before!
If you ever need a different YouTube user name, I suggest "ScottishLightMan240".
I wonder if you can help.
I have a Chauvet brand of the same sort of thing, Pocket Pin Spot.
My light flashes five times, now, instead of working normally.
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Does that indicate to replace anything in particular, the LED or some other replaceable part, do you know.
If not, don't worry, thanks for posting a nice video.
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I have another one, which just dimmed to very faint light, how about that?
Does that indicate any particular type of replaceable part within?
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I have five of these in my flat, they all worked fine for the first nearly-a-year.
Kindly Ignore my request if you are busy.
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Cheers.
from,
del-boy
One of the Chinese 20watt floodlights that I bought, went pop after running for 2 minutes. The fault was actually the wiring. I've not encountered wring that acts as a fuse before. The cable made quite an incredible bang, but it did save everything else from harm.
Wow, that's not dodgy at all… XD
LOL it doesn't even have a DMX option on it, the packaging is mis-labeled and the wiring is not to code for 120 or 240 mains AND there is no proper earth grounding on it.. I can see it causing issues for those not knowledgeable on electricity or electronics..
I wonder how many people bought these and tried it on 12 VDC and got mad it didnt work..
Good video man, its people like you who give those "not in the know" a heads up on things like this.
i ordered the exact same one intended as a replacement for a PAR36. it came with the correct mains flex (if albeit quite short as usual) and even had a properly connected earth. I was annoyed by the fact i had to play about with the lens to achieve a decent spotlight for a mirror ball, but hey-ho i got what i paid for….