When I turned on some of my ceiling downlighters there was a slight crackle and one failed.
I don't know if it was the switch that arced or something in the lamp itself, and to be fair I still don't know.
The lamp that failed was one of the Philips 2W LED GU10 lamps that uses a capacitive dropper and a group of four SMD LEDs that each contain about 4 chips.
The only component that had obviously failed was an internal 1A fuse. When bridged with a new fuse (5A because I was hoping for flames) it just worked again.
That leaves me wondering if the switch or a connection arced at power-up and the sustained current transients of the arcing caused the fuse to blow.
Oh well, in goes a new lamp (another Philips 2W LED).
I don't know if it was the switch that arced or something in the lamp itself, and to be fair I still don't know.
The lamp that failed was one of the Philips 2W LED GU10 lamps that uses a capacitive dropper and a group of four SMD LEDs that each contain about 4 chips.
The only component that had obviously failed was an internal 1A fuse. When bridged with a new fuse (5A because I was hoping for flames) it just worked again.
That leaves me wondering if the switch or a connection arced at power-up and the sustained current transients of the arcing caused the fuse to blow.
Oh well, in goes a new lamp (another Philips 2W LED).
I have a magnifying glass table light that has a candle light bulb. When my last incandecent lamp failed I tried to buy new ones but the law had changed so that it was illegal to sell them. So I bought Airam 4713471 led bulb, put it in and threw away the box it came in. Week later it started to sputter and it died. I wrote a complaint review to Airam and went to buy a new one. While I was in shop Airam had send me a response. If I had kept the box or even looked it more throughly in first place, I might have noticed that these come with 3 year warranty. So they kindly asked my delivery address and sent me a new one. So now I have a spare.
Evening Clive.. How many volts does the driver circuit usually supply to the LED board ?
Crap. I've been converting bulbs to LEDs in the house and chose Phillips as the brand of choice. I might as well have saved some money and went for the cheap Ebay China ones.
Time delayed fuse…so ya buy more:-)
We seem to have the same Yihua soldering iron! I like the power quick connect (Cliff Quicktest QT/1) you are using, as you know we don't have fuses in our EU mains plug (Schuko) and you can reverse the plug in the socket. I like the UK BS1363 socket and plugs, because they are fused and polarised. Not sure why there is a fuse in the Quicktest and in the plug, it seems a bit redundant. Unfortunately the Quicktest is very pricey, they go for about €50,- over here.
Autopsy, do you believe that lamp was alive at some stage? and is it now a zombie? did it have a soul? lol.
Perhaps one of the dropping capacitors shorted out inside, and it blew the fuse AND at the same time blew the short open circuit?
Phillips has two Series of products, the white one Consumer, and the dark-grey one Called MASTER for the Professional stuff, i guess Switching regulators too (as an an example: in a MR16 spot are Rebel LEDs).
dunno if you follow electronupdates teardowns, but philips have a few lemons among their led bulbs series
, i would suppose that fuses being drawm wire can suffer from bad batches, thinner or having occlusions in the metal, more likely from very cheap far east suppliers, thus leading to fuses which fall short of their ratings
, might be an interesting idea to make up a testing jig and buy 100 cheap fuses and ramp up to their blow point and see how many fall below their spec