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By popular request, a different version of the tungsten to LED fairy light conversion project, that uses a common capacitive dropper module from ebay to run the LEDs at higher current.
With this module as it is supplied you can drive up to around 40 LEDs in series with no PCB modifications on 120V. If your supply is 220V to 250V I'd recommend changing the electrolytic capacitor for a 400V 4.7uF one (a common type in the lighting industry) and adjusting the value of the red current limiting capacitor from the supplied 680nF to something like 100, 220, 330 or 470nF (at 400V) depending on how bright you want the LEDs and how many you want to run. The upside for higher voltage 220-250V supplies is that we can run around 100 LEDs in series.
Although the capacitive dropper is more complicated than the simple resistive dropper, it is much more efficient since it doesn't dissipate the excess power as heat
Here's a link to an ebay seller of these capacitive dropper supplies.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351483516122
By popular request, a different version of the tungsten to LED fairy light conversion project, that uses a common capacitive dropper module from ebay to run the LEDs at higher current.
With this module as it is supplied you can drive up to around 40 LEDs in series with no PCB modifications on 120V. If your supply is 220V to 250V I'd recommend changing the electrolytic capacitor for a 400V 4.7uF one (a common type in the lighting industry) and adjusting the value of the red current limiting capacitor from the supplied 680nF to something like 100, 220, 330 or 470nF (at 400V) depending on how bright you want the LEDs and how many you want to run. The upside for higher voltage 220-250V supplies is that we can run around 100 LEDs in series.
Although the capacitive dropper is more complicated than the simple resistive dropper, it is much more efficient since it doesn't dissipate the excess power as heat
Here's a link to an ebay seller of these capacitive dropper supplies.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351483516122
Which is more efficient? Is there a more efficient way?
I’m also looking at converting to 24v DC from 120v series.
Recently saw Dave put a cap in backwards in an oscilloscope rebuild, it was quite interesting, while the camera was not on the cap at the time, the magic black smoke was fab, and Dave's reaction classic as he rushed to remove power. The result on the cap was classic as well!
Oh and by the way…. Another great vid even if I am a little late to the party!
Can anyone following these comments please post a link to these controllers. I've been hunting eBay and get nothing. Cheers for any help.
I kept wondering why you drew resistors as boxes and not the familiar triangle waveform. TIL that the box schematic is the International Electrotechnical Commission symbol for a schematic resistor. It's been a while since I did any electronic circuitry. Another win for the web – question raised in my mind by watching a Big Clive YouTube vid answered by surfing over to Wikipedia. What a time to be alive!
"… because kids are attracted to bright lights". And somewhat older YouTube viewers of Clive's channel too
Hi Clive. I am attempting to convert my old tungsten Christmas star to LED. I got the capacitive dropper in your video via the link. Unfortunately, I was only able to get the 50-80pcs when I really need the 1-36 as I will be powering 35 LEDs. The dropper is putting out 335VDC from 250VAC (UK) with a 684J 250V capacitor. I changed the capacitor to a 220uF 400V but that only dropped it 10V. The LEDs I am using have a max forward voltage of 3.8V with 30mA times by 35 and i get 133VDC. What size capacitor would I need to drop down to that voltage? Would I need a higher or lower capacitance? Is there a calculation I could do to find out.
Cheers.
Used soldering wick can be used as track bridges, I've found out.
I made one, ever solder my own supply according to the schematic. I used 5mm rgb slow flash led's, at first i used 100nF capacitor but they have problem going the full cycle of colors, changed to 150nF and it's just enough (string of 100 led's)
Just done one of these with a capacitive dropper on a set off 50 from Poundland (disappointed to find it only had 48 fitting).
Was going to make a capacitive dropper but then remembered I still had a spare one from doing the red/blue LED conversion on the bulb kit. I figured that since it was driving 38 LEDs in the kit it would be fine with 48 in the string.
Clive or anyone else is this the same for Australian currents as I think we are the same 240v 50-60hz . I have been watching all your videos and want to try some of this nonsense hahahahaa hopefully with no thermonuclear reaction or death
Wait, you say it's a way to make it's brighter than the one with resistors, but using lower resistance resistors wouldn't make similar effect ?
I have been wanting to build my own lights for around the house (outside) for some time this is exactly the video I needed to see it done