I've had this sitting here for a while, so I thought it was time to take it apart for our amusement. I've not actually tested it working as there's no convenient point for attaching water that doesn't pose a risk of drenching an adjacent wall or carpet. Note that these units are generally only suited for 220 to 240V use. Using one on 120V would result in very little heating of the water.
It's been pointed out that the diaphragm is actually a differential pressure device, so if the outlet was blocked the internal pressure would equalise and the power to the element would cut off. It would still potentially be a lot of pressure in the chamber though.
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It's been pointed out that the diaphragm is actually a differential pressure device, so if the outlet was blocked the internal pressure would equalise and the power to the element would cut off. It would still potentially be a lot of pressure in the chamber though.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
I know what you mean😄
footerie clive
Rather have some water to clean up as opposed to the bomb it could be without a pressure relief mechanism.
With all the plastic on every fitting, speaking from experience 2 maybe 3 years before one of the fittings will split right down the middle.
These elements ( from an old unit , removed from a kitchen upgrade ? ) make excellent FREE high power resistors , ( normally VERY expensive to buy new ) , for all manner of electronic projects ( usually about 20 Ω resistance ? ) ….. DAVE™ …….
Being essentially the same as an electric shower, I don't see why it would be dribbling out.. you probably don't want the water to be anything above 45 degrees C, just like a shower.
Can't get this tap apart….. 'faucet' 😀
"The vice of knowledge" xD
Sooo, the big question is: Does it actually manage to make hot water or is it going t be luke-warm?
The main issue is the temp of the incoming water. In regions where these things are common the incoming water temp is very warm already (usually 15-20C). That makes the job of getting the water hot (around 50C) much easier.
In colder climates the incoming water is MUCH colder (around 6C where I am) making these units FAR less useful.
Of course I live in a 120V area so these units are utterly useless.
I see one of these in my future. I can't afford to replace my gass boiler.
In Finland any older circuits are 10 A so this would overload them.