One of these socket testers is great and one has been over-engineered with lots of extra weaknesses as a result. In hindsight I'm wondering if the hot resistors (110C) were masking the transistor or if the transistor itself was getting that hot. If it is dissipating about quarter of a watt then it should be within its capability.
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The square one, although I have I newer model that is different inside and shows the trip current on the display when you press the RCD 30mA or GFCI 5mA depending on the model says on the manual to no let it on the plug for more than 5 minutes, so the heating problem seems to be still there. But the 230V model draws only 18mA in 117V then you test the RCD that is not enough to trigger the RCD for testing. I saw some other that trigger the RCD in 117V so I suppose there is a 230V model and a 117V model although the model code is the same.
That's pretty wild. Mine just has three neon lamps and nothing else, and I have to believe it's more reliable than this complex silliness. ๐ Violates the K.I.S.S. principle. ^_^
IMNSHO, Fluke shouldn't be making trivial shit like outlet testers, but maybe they can't make profit on good test instruments any more.
Oh Fluke, how you disappoint me…
"If it works, it's a Fluke…"
BUZZERS! Electrician TV's video titled "Electrician tools Socket tester review Fluke, Di log, Kewtech, socket & see many more" explains why electricians like him only use the ones with buzzers.
Fair warning, his video style is quite……erm…..contrasting compared to Big Clive ๐
I recognize that current limiting circuit. I first learned that one in my freshman year in college during a digital design lab (current source for an autotrading DVM). Used it frequently ever since.
Computer, ENHANCE IMAGE!
i really laughed at the idea of just getting rid of transistors if control circuit takes more current
The reason for the constant current drivers is simply because that circuit will work with same LED brightness at both 220V and 110V. So basically its the same PCB sold all over the world and just put in different housing.
I was just looking at these on eBay and there is a new one, a smart and fancy Aneng AC11, with a colour display.
I'd be interested to see you compare the accuracy (and insides, of course) of a Kill-A-Watt meter to a HOPI.
The reason is, I bought a Kill-A-Watt a few months ago and some of the readings it gives me just seem right out. Like when stress testing my computer (Ryzen 5 3600x, GTX 1060TI, 16gb DDR4 etc) which has a 700W PSU, the Kill-A-Watt says it's only drawing about 120W. And my 3A USB charger quick charging a cell phone only draws 80mA according to it, while one of those USB Volt/Ammeters says it's a more realistic 1.5A.
I would have loved to get a HOPI just because you use them so much and you've always had such good experiences with them. And I love what I've seen of them. But from what I could gather from the pictures, it looked like it was for European plugs only.
Or hell, maybe I could even mail you my Kill-A-Watt and you could have a look at it. Just not sure where to get your mailing address. Lord knows it's not doing me much good here. I think my final test will be to hook it up to a 1200 watt microwave and see what it says.
not very good for a tester is the tester blows up
Better watched at 1.5 speed
Could have been boring AF, but not with Big Clive at the helm; was interestingAF!
Wow a pic 1208C I havent seen one for years. I used to use a lot of them. Ordered them from Maplin in the days before it became a toy shop. I used them to chip the old PS2 so it would play all games…. Now I feel old ๐
The idea behind the current regulator is not bad, itยดs just terribly implemented…
Another very informative video, thanks Big Clive
The extra circuitry is just to make it cost more.