It's always interesting to compare the high profile branded lights to the generic imports.
The main differences are usually electrical noise filtering, shrouding and quality of LEDs.
I made a little mistake in this video. I talked about how the PIR detector can still maintain its power supply when turned on and described the two wire type. This one has live and neutral there all the time for power, so it doesn't need to do that. The thyristor gate is powered from the 3.9V rail.
This product is very much in the category of unserviceable. I very much doubt it will last for 15 years. You can't just change a lamp in it, and with the profitable Part P* protection racket driving up the hourly rate of electricians in the UK - products like this will inevitably force homeowners to get involved in doing DIY electrical wiring even if they are not technically inclined.
*(Part P was pushed for by a private marketing company called the NICEIC which presents itself as an "official body" by use of careful wording in their adverts. You pay to use their logo and benefit from the image they imply.)
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
The main differences are usually electrical noise filtering, shrouding and quality of LEDs.
I made a little mistake in this video. I talked about how the PIR detector can still maintain its power supply when turned on and described the two wire type. This one has live and neutral there all the time for power, so it doesn't need to do that. The thyristor gate is powered from the 3.9V rail.
This product is very much in the category of unserviceable. I very much doubt it will last for 15 years. You can't just change a lamp in it, and with the profitable Part P* protection racket driving up the hourly rate of electricians in the UK - products like this will inevitably force homeowners to get involved in doing DIY electrical wiring even if they are not technically inclined.
*(Part P was pushed for by a private marketing company called the NICEIC which presents itself as an "official body" by use of careful wording in their adverts. You pay to use their logo and benefit from the image they imply.)
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Hello. I want to buy a ceiling light for a 10 m² bedroom that only has a small window. Could you please tell me how many lumens one should have for this area? Thank you!
Is it still working?
Sorry but all of this is only going to end in one way, give me the old fashioned incandescent lamps and old fashioned everything instead of all of these tiny Chinese obects, yeah lets go back to horse and carts, they call this progress we'll see.
What will happen when the reliance on Chinese miniaturisiation of components gets to be total?
This looks very much like your typical ceiling light in Japan, minus the socket that provides power and acts as anchor.
Thanks for the video, does anybody know if it is possible to change a resistor or capacitor to tweak the PIR timer? My lamp turns off after 30 seconds, it would be nice to change that to 5 or 10 minutes.
💡♥👍
1300 lumens my ass! I have a 400 Lumen flashlight and it is significantly brighter than that!
Within a month of buying the cover got smashed, it is weak plastic.
The led boards run at 80v in series.
However if you remove the supply, rewire the boards to parallel and use a boost coverter they run very well from 20v, perfect for garage lighting off a car battery.
Anyone have a link to the identical chinese imports?
My issue with PIR is that WiFi can cause false triggers and the light will blink on and off. I had a battery powered one which caused this issue and I had to wrap aluminum tape around the sensor to stop the interference.
I wonder how difficult it would be to hack it to get it to run on 12V? I guess that the easiest way would be to use a boost converter… I'm currently looking for options to replace the lighting in my house to 12V DC and this thing looks nice enough to put in a dark hallway… I want to power my lights via battery and solar..
Is there a way to switch off the motion detector in order to have the lights on all the time?
Can you wire these to an extractor fan, so it comes on with the light?
Doesn't look like it would be suitable for a bathroom.
Not a bad looking light compared to the usual extra cheap no name ones.
*Will last 15 years if used 3 hours a week
Because the thyristor is not switching at mains crossing 0v wouldn't that have the effect of suppressing noise? So apparently according to the marketing folks a lifetime is 15 years.