This wasn't even going to be a video. It was an excuse to practice with reflowing solder paste that ended up with a custom designed PCB for use in an existing cheap disco light housing.
The end result actually looks really good.
In hindsight the interna, power supply was a 5V one and I could have used it to power the LEDs, but it's designed to be powered from a plug-in USB charger or power bank.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
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The end result actually looks really good.
In hindsight the interna, power supply was a 5V one and I could have used it to power the LEDs, but it's designed to be powered from a plug-in USB charger or power bank.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
As an SMT, I'm crying.. so sad to see this disaster!
Solder resist is a must with surface mount components, also only very little amount of solder paste is needed, the best way is by using a dedicated stencil for the board although can be pricey to get those laser cut for just one off project.
End result of the project was amazing, great effect!
Again, just want to say thanks for keeping me interested in electronics as I wouldn't be where I am today!
The part number will be on the other side of the controller so pop it out of it's socket.
Good effect.
But how'd u get the laser look from the round dots that u had wen u wer focusing it to the desk?
Big Clive Goes To Hollywood
Keep making videos Clive! Absolutely adore your channel, so so soothing relaxing just amazing! I can listen to you all day! Love your dedication to sharing knowledge. Thank you!
Clive, back when I worked at Plessey (& then GPT) our surface mount machines glued the components to the PCB.
Rubberised Solder resists was also added to certain locations on the board at this stage.
They then passed to the ACI section for Automated Component Insertion, then manual assembly for additional components that the robots couldn’t cope with.
After that the boards went to the flow-solder machine.
Following that the solder resist was removed and components that couldn’t be flow-soldered were added by hand.
And then they came to me for testing and repair ( if needed) before a final test before shipping out to the department that assembled the racks and telecoms switch units before being functional tested and shipped out fir installation.
That was in the 1980’s
Good video @bigclivedotcom
When you showed us the beams at the end I hear "Der-duber-der-dum, der-duber-der-dum, der-duber-der-dum. Wah-arrr, eeaw, wah"
You might try using dabs of solder resist in areas where you want to force the placement to stay the way you set it up.
I cop a little trace design flaw here, is why the resistors went all over the place. Nonetheless, the reflow process is always very satisfying to watch.
Great job with the projector mod! 👍👌
You really need to learn how to work with UV resin here, I think. A few lines with a fine brush would have kept the pads neatly defined in their spaces. You already have a UV curing station, so it wouldn't be too wrong to use the same thing for this as well..
I want to make one with white LED’s, hang it above our bed, wake my wife up, and start whispering “Go towards the light!” 😂
Pity you didn't demo the disco light before gutting it.
I was thinking thats a SB c lead that is designed for quick charging.
Solder pastes need to be refrigerated during storage, and have a typical life of 1 year when properly stored (per the SDS of what I use at work). You're supposed to warm up the paste for 8 hours before use (yeah not going to happen in a hobby or single shift work environment). For a high enough volume board, you'll usually see a form of screen printer to apply solder paste (you can make a quick and dirty paste stencil from heavy plastic film, and use a credit card as the squeegee).
Like others have said, the best control to stop the resistors from turning on the liquid solder is resist and pad size. Pad size we can handle making boards at home…. The resist layer, as someone said, you can use nail polish, but that's a question of how patient you are (or aren't – I'd just buy boards made).