Aside from the fact that this module was potted in sand with a thin layer of resin on top, the circuitry is rather minimalist too.
I was expecting something a bit more sophisticated for the battery charging than a diode.
The other shunt circuitry for the lighting circuit is also a bit strange. I know it's fairly common to use shunt regulation on bike alternators, but it seems to me that it will result in excessive heat from the alternator or at the very least, an extra load on the engine.
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I was expecting something a bit more sophisticated for the battery charging than a diode.
The other shunt circuitry for the lighting circuit is also a bit strange. I know it's fairly common to use shunt regulation on bike alternators, but it seems to me that it will result in excessive heat from the alternator or at the very least, an extra load on the engine.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Would a 100volt 3,700 or 5,000 or 10,000 Farrad capacitor be dangerous ? I need 100volt because a bicycle bottle or hub dynamo can output up to around 100 volts ac on very fast down hill descents. I plan to use it to make a full wave bridge rectifier as a smoother for my vintage bicycle dynamo lights (because modern mass produced dynamo lights are pig ugly) to stop the very annoying strobing that occurs with the AC & to hopefully enable the light to glow for a few minutes when stopped at traffic lights when the current from the dynamo is no longer flowing – the capacitor discharging into the load ( a 3 watt total of front & rear led bulbs). How long could I expect the lights to glow for before going out completely with these value capacitors please?
Hey Clive – thanks for the video . I have been using exactly these guys for around 30 years and they are amazingly dependable . They do not tend to fry the battery and charge well enough . As a few others have said the lights get dim at idle but the battery charging is actually quite strong at idle and dips a bit as revs go up then stabilizes . The green to earth goes through a ceramic dump resistor 5-8 Ohms on my bikes , don't know if that is interesting for you . Thanks again for so many great videos and your smooth presentation style – much enjoyed .
I wondered if some magneto coils are arranged such that each one is referenced to ground (instead of series as shown). Also, since the thyristor essentially shorts the lighting supply when the switching threshold is reached, I wonder what current will flow and whether or not it's stressing the thyristor and/or magneto and/or wiring. I am searching for a solution that can be applied to a 6V system, so I guess (just for the lighting really as the supply to charge the battery seems to be ok, albeit rather crude – just a single diode as per your drawing. So far no boiling etc occurs).
So I’ve got one of these Chinese scooters I’m trying to get roadworthy (I get it, that’s a joke kinda) and while I’m good with engines and wiring 12 volt stuff and understand basic electronic (just the basics) I’m not near as well versed as you guys (that appear to be EEs). So if anybody sees this I could use some help (I know it’s old thread).
Engine runs fine, got that part under control. It just isn’t putting out anything from the charging system. I’ve replaced the stator and tested it while running and it’s putting out the requisite ac voltage on the yellow and white wires. 20-30 at idle and 60-70ish when revved up. Checking each phase (yellow or white) between ground. It uses that exact rec/reg (same size/plug) as far as I can tell externally. Same colors yellow/white/red/green. Now here’s where I might have been messing up all along and this only became evident after sharing you dissect the regulator and cdi and the harness video. I have hard wired everything the way I assumed it should go because someone had made a mess of the oem harness.
Here’s my connections:
Off the rec/reg
Stator yellow to yellow on the rec/reg
Stator white to white on rec/reg
Rec/reg red to battery positive (fused 10 amp)
Rec/reg green to ground straight to battery.
Checking dc voltage at battery it just sits right at 12.7 doesn’t rise to normal 14 when revved like a normal working charging system would.
What’s got me stumped is when I plug/unplug in the rectifier regulator with the engine running it pulls down the idle speed so I’m assuming it’s the load of alternator on the little 50cc engine. So leads me to believe it’s working. But no output at battery.
I see the headlight has something to do with this from the video and the comments. Being i hard wired everything (cause the factory harness was butchered so bad) did I miss something that’s with the yellow coil wire from the stator that’s affecting the regulator and causing my problem?
I’m used to working on big bikes from Japan and modern Harley’s that have three phase stators/rec/regs so this isn’t something I’ve encountered before (2 phase half wave whatever this type of system is called)
Thanks for any help
My 06 Honda 450x uses the same system. "SCR shorted, half wave"
What did you use to make the epoxy soft? I've been grinding mine out for hours. Got to the circuit board, it has two SCR's on mine, I did the lock test on them and both work. But all the other parts are a guess unless I can get the circuit board out. I tried alcohol and that didn't work.
My previous comment stems from I am looking to use one of these to rectify ac to dc off a snowmobile to power a led light bar. With a capacitor after the rectifier to level out the power. Needing to know where to plug the load, load ground, supply and supply ground. Creating a complete loop since I am using the stock wiring up to where the stock light would have been.
So whats the pin out for it then? I see you scribed a positive top left but what position are the others?
Clive my question is. As these take up the duty of heatsinks. Would adding fans to help scrub heat. Help them last. I’ve got a cpu fan connected to a toggle switch wire tied to my Chinese Rectifier with great results. I’ve heard guys lasting years on same Rectifier with a fan. But most don’t want to attempt the job which I used the turn signal line on fuse box for current.
I just went on a two month adventure replacing my motorcycle regulator/rectifier & stator. It was either deal with cheap, non-functioning parts or pay 10 times the price for OEM. 2000 Suzuki Marauder, VZ800
Anyone know of a more efficient unit than these? I hear these little Chinese engines, if they even have a charging / lighting circuit, only put out around 60 watts on a good day. I would like to get as much out of mine as possible.
Is Clive correct here?? I was of the opinion that the yellow and white wires are AC coming in from the stator, and that the Regulated DC comes out on the red and green wires ??