An inline toilet fan with timer that was sent in by Will (physicmad).
In the UK we use toilet/bathroom fans that have a continuous and switched feed. When you turn on the light in the room the fan starts, and then continues to run for a fixed time after the light has been turned off again to purge any aromas or excessive humidity.
The circuitry is usually very minimalist, using a current limiting resistor that is sometimes prone to cooking to the point that it can sometimes short out in some brands, with undesirable results.
It's been pointed out that the resistor may double up as an anti-condensation heater to keep the enclosure dry.
This unit has an intact resistor, but Will said the timing started getting shorter and shorter and the fan would sometimes struggle to start, even though it was free to spin.
Can you guess what the fault was?
The easiest fix for some of these is to remove the PCB and add a bit of terminal strip to run the fan off the switched feed. Just remember to leave the light on for a while after a bath or shower to remove the humid air.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
In the UK we use toilet/bathroom fans that have a continuous and switched feed. When you turn on the light in the room the fan starts, and then continues to run for a fixed time after the light has been turned off again to purge any aromas or excessive humidity.
The circuitry is usually very minimalist, using a current limiting resistor that is sometimes prone to cooking to the point that it can sometimes short out in some brands, with undesirable results.
It's been pointed out that the resistor may double up as an anti-condensation heater to keep the enclosure dry.
This unit has an intact resistor, but Will said the timing started getting shorter and shorter and the fan would sometimes struggle to start, even though it was free to spin.
Can you guess what the fault was?
The easiest fix for some of these is to remove the PCB and add a bit of terminal strip to run the fan off the switched feed. Just remember to leave the light on for a while after a bath or shower to remove the humid air.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Hi Big Clive I recently purchased a fan from B&Q under impresion it was a timer fan, however made pcb for your circuit
but didn't use 22k resister but used a 330nan with 470k shunt, & 56ohm res in series limits wast, also Triac drive I had to add
a Diode in series with the 1lk5 res or triac back feeds 4001 and it don't like it, now works.
Thanks Clive! This circuit is in older Manrose MF100t fans. In my case the timer stopped working and the 470uf 16v capacitor had slightly bulged. Replaced with a Panasonic 470uf 25v (given newer Mf100t fans use 25v not 16v) and the timer was back 👍 There is enough room to fit the larger 25v capacitor away from the hot resistor in the casing.
I saw one of these in an apartment I lived in, no escape to the outside. I immediately knew the people who paid contractors to build the place, cared for nothing but personal profit, certainly not for any residents. I hope that after they’ve enjoyed the wealth, prostitutes, houses, boats, and unmentionable perverted horrors to others they have engaged in, that upon death, in the afterlife it is suddenly revealed to them, just a little of the eternal torment that is in store for them. While those they screwed over to become wealthy in Earthly life are now clearly living eternally very well in comfort and in a level of contentment that those below, who screwed others in Earthly life, can sort of barely taste, but never, ever experience, because they chose to experience their pleasure during their short time on Earth, by screwing others. For those of you who are screwing others to get ahead, know that your destiny is the same. And we righteous people will be seeing your afterlife torture, but realize you earned it, and there is nothing we can do to change it, so we avoid your torture chamber because, being decent people who just lived simply without screwing others for wealth, is not what we deserve to see. You asked for it, you got it.
I loathe and despise when they put low spec capacitors next to things that get hot for cheapness reasons. It is not just fart-extractors. My sub woofer with integrated amplifier did the same thing. I bought capacitors with higher temperature rating and soldered them in by the tips of their legs so they weren't stuck right by the power dissipating components. An easy extra decade of bass for pocket change and some googling/soldering. Don't do this at home. If Clive is an idiot, I am a total imbecile.
Ive replaced many of these & if its not crammed & clogged with dust/ dead skin it normally has a 2watt resistor that has got very hot. The variable resistor is for the time on period NOT for the fan speed.
All these problems could be avoided if the fan was directly put to its own switch without all the tine delay circutry
Funny, fart extractor is what I call the ventilation fans installed in the bathrooms of airplanes!! They are very useful.
I've just repaired one exactly the same as that. In my case it was the timing capacitor and corrosion across the 4001 pins.
This title has me laughing so hard at 1:50am I need to go to bed before I get myself in trouble.
I've only fixed one Toilet Fan and it was the big resistor was burnt out , it didn't need a lot of testing to find it because it was so badly burned, basically crumbled away when touched.
The headlines are smartly attention grabbing.
You play with some nasty things a fart extractor and cockroach zapper man I hope you have some hand sanitizer!
It would be interesting if they'd put small hole/passage from fan suction side to the area near the resistor. Add a vent on other side. This would generate just a bit of air flow to keep the resistor as well as the rest of the board/capacitors much cooler with virtually no additional expense.
I understand additional circuitry is needed in order to keep the bathroom fan ON for some time after turning off the bathroom light, but my god, isn't that a bit of over-engineering for a bathroom fan? Fart extractors here in Canada are simple shaded-pole induction motors, no circuit boards; and has its own wall switch, usually right next to the bathroom light switch.
Ahhh smart fart! Just kidding,