This product is extremely functional, but has been designed to fit in a very tiny box with absolutely no room for wires. You may need to modify it to make them fit, noting that running wires past the antenna may reduce its range.
That said, the design is good and the software in the ubiquitous little 8 pin microcontroller is very functional, allowing several remotes to be added with completely different functions assigned to each remote. This type of module is usually compatible with most of the generic remotes available on eBay. That makes it more versatile than the "kinetic" self-powering remote control systems, which tend to use proprietary codes. Although the common remotes do require a small battery, in most cases it should last for years and is cheap and easy to replace.
Here's how to program this unit and many others that use the same software.
To clear all codes press and hold the button for about 5 seconds until the LED starts flashing.
To program each mode, press the button between 1 and 7 times, observing the brief LED flash with each press. After the required mode has been selected the LED will light to show it's waiting to receive a signal from the chosen remote button.
Press the remotes button and the LED will go out, or if it's the two button toggle mode it will blink and then wait for the second button to be pressed (which doesn't need to be on the same remote.)
If desired you can pair several other remotes by repeating the procedure. They can all have different functions.
Modes:-
1 - Single button momentary action. Non latching.
2 - Single button toggle on/off.
3 - Two button on/off. Each button is assigned independently.
4 - Single button timer 5-second delay.
5 - Single button timer 10-second delay.
6 - Single button timer 15-second delay.
7 - Single button timer 20-second delay.
Further presses will blink the LED, but just give the last 20 second delay mode.
Some similar units have an adjustable link for setting the mode. It usually offers momentary, latching or two button toggle. The button may only be for learning a code.
These units are common on eBay, usually supplied with a remote switch or key fob with a frequency choice of 433MHz or 315MHz.
The RF chip may be a VI590R. Here's the datasheet:-
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/2012211239_VIBRATION-VI590R_C968713.pdf
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
That said, the design is good and the software in the ubiquitous little 8 pin microcontroller is very functional, allowing several remotes to be added with completely different functions assigned to each remote. This type of module is usually compatible with most of the generic remotes available on eBay. That makes it more versatile than the "kinetic" self-powering remote control systems, which tend to use proprietary codes. Although the common remotes do require a small battery, in most cases it should last for years and is cheap and easy to replace.
Here's how to program this unit and many others that use the same software.
To clear all codes press and hold the button for about 5 seconds until the LED starts flashing.
To program each mode, press the button between 1 and 7 times, observing the brief LED flash with each press. After the required mode has been selected the LED will light to show it's waiting to receive a signal from the chosen remote button.
Press the remotes button and the LED will go out, or if it's the two button toggle mode it will blink and then wait for the second button to be pressed (which doesn't need to be on the same remote.)
If desired you can pair several other remotes by repeating the procedure. They can all have different functions.
Modes:-
1 - Single button momentary action. Non latching.
2 - Single button toggle on/off.
3 - Two button on/off. Each button is assigned independently.
4 - Single button timer 5-second delay.
5 - Single button timer 10-second delay.
6 - Single button timer 15-second delay.
7 - Single button timer 20-second delay.
Further presses will blink the LED, but just give the last 20 second delay mode.
Some similar units have an adjustable link for setting the mode. It usually offers momentary, latching or two button toggle. The button may only be for learning a code.
These units are common on eBay, usually supplied with a remote switch or key fob with a frequency choice of 433MHz or 315MHz.
The RF chip may be a VI590R. Here's the datasheet:-
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/2012211239_VIBRATION-VI590R_C968713.pdf
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
You mention two data pins from the RF section but it looks like they are only using one of them? Also those programming points near the microcontroller.. I'd be tempted to set up an arduino with an I2C scanning program loaded and see what it might find in either case…
Thanks for the videos. Ham radio operators like myself share the 70CM band 430 – 440 MHz with these units. Also, weather station & gas & electric usage transmitters to monitor the consumption & other remote units & car door locking & alarms. Not an issue as we have 10 MHz bandwidth available to us at these UHF frequencies. They are in the FM section of the band. We hear them & can stop them from functioning if we use the same frequency. We have to share without causing interference.
I love these little units, ive a 4 way one on my boat for my horn and headlight as I couldnt trace the fault on the original lines as they go behind walls so now they are wireless 😂
433.92 is also European car key frequency
Nice one Clive; had a 433 remote knocking around so having seen your vid, I bought the receiver and it paired no problems!!
We're lucky to have you sharing your knowledge. Regards, Rob.👍👏
I wonder if it's possible to find a 5V relays and remove the regulator and let it run from 5V instead. Cause I have some ambient lighting in my apartment using the 5V USB port of my router. But I think for this a MOSFET based controller is more appropriate.
Thank you again, subscribed.. I have bought the exact same one. I asked a question on your other motion sensor video though I believe this relay would suit and work ? My plan is – though not very up on electrics – is to use this in a circuit in my car. Circuit being ; Car 12v battery – relay switch – car horn -wire contacts on inside of car door.. Use small plates on the car door connected in the loop. Would this relay work when on if the contacts on the car door were broken ? ( car door being opened. )
I drilled 5 holes in the plastic case that lined up with the terminal block.
Thanks Clive! Ordered after watching your video, arrived today. And my home automation (Domoticz) recognizes the signal as well, so can easliy be integrated in the house. Yust dunno yet what I will switch with it.
Bought receiver after watching your video. Excellent product. TY.
One of mine latched up today and wouldn't clear its memory or learn any new codes, despite doing all the correct LED flashing routine when I pressed the Learn button. I managed to do a hard reset by disconnecting the supply whilst keeping the Learn button pressed. It was a long shot but it's now working again (-:
What is the model of this
If you are interested in the profesh edition of these thingies,
including mesh / point to point network, chip ids, switching, flags and data transmission (rs232), take a look at IRIS Base.
They come around 50 bucks a module. i used them and their "up to 1km range" is not exagerrated. and if it doesnt work just drop an additional one in the middle.
(there are industrial prebuild versions available but heaploads more expensive)
The best thing for the receiver side of these is you can add any antenna you want without risking a fine by the transmitterpolice people,
dual-quad worked fine for me, you can use a dvb-t antenna calculator for it entering the proper mhz…
I honestly dont care if there is a cr2032 or similar in the switch… if you dont press it it doesnt use energy.
what i hate are remote control receiver powerplugs (or IR sensors) who are wasting away multiple watts of power if in "standby"
or holding a cheapo relais, (bad cheapo design) 24×7, just because people are too lazy or stupid to use a (cord/pull) switch. (lost mobility due to sickness excluded)
👍👍