On one hand this cheaply made light is impressive because of how they've managed to strike the tube with the same component that limits current through it. The tube is also run on AC which is also good.
But as always with these types of mini-light, they start the tube cold-cathode style which causes rapid electrode damage. And any loose connection causes arcing and instantly visible electrode sputtering stains inside the tube. This is made somewhat worse by the very sloppy electrical construction which ensures bad connections.
Very interesting to see how they cut corners and got a low component count with standard parts though.
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But as always with these types of mini-light, they start the tube cold-cathode style which causes rapid electrode damage. And any loose connection causes arcing and instantly visible electrode sputtering stains inside the tube. This is made somewhat worse by the very sloppy electrical construction which ensures bad connections.
Very interesting to see how they cut corners and got a low component count with standard parts though.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
https://www.patreon.com/bigclive (extra streams and channel interaction)
Or alternatively:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators
I had a similar one of these back in the 90's, but the American version. it put out so little light, I just used it for a nightlight in my kitchen, so if I felt like a midnight snack I could work my way to the kitchen without turning on a lamp, and avoid cracking a toe on furniture.
I'm weird but sometimes come back to the videos on the shelf for fun.
Here I'm noticing your comment about it possibly lasting longer than some of the LEDs. Guessing it's because of the tendency to overdrive them? I've already "hacked" many of the bulbs in my house with modifying the on board resistors dropping them to a quarter of their original draw.
So GREAT! It's just like you say with the light output being much more than you'd think at the lower wattages.
You're a lifesaver Big Clive! LOL We need to chip in and get you a cape!
I've been meaning to ask. In the land of 240+ voltage, where/how do you get the 110V from?
You can replace the diode and 22k resistor with a 200v sidac (K2000G for example) to have a nice preheat start. In fact the 110V version of this light used a sidac as even with the doubler the tube couldn't starts reliably with cold cathodes.
I would LOVE to found one of these tiny cfl lights with ballast and everything 😍…anyway have a nice day 🙂
Although I have seen many other "starter" circuits on magazines over the years this one is the first I see using only pathetic elements (i.e. no triac)…
Haha.. I also found mine a few weeks ago. It is the exact same model just in black. And I also have no Idea where I have it from.
Smart.
my grandma had one of these
"I tried it on 110V … and then I checked the rating". 🙂
If I'm not mistaking, that big yellow capacitor has manufacturer logo on it, and it was made by famous Iskra electronic component maker from Kranj, Slovenia, former Yugoslavia. So, this lamp is most probably a Yugoslavian product, made by FEP (Factory of Electric Products) from Donji Milanovac – factory known to produce many iron ballasts for lighting back in the time, as well as small electric motors and the like. It very likely is an imported design, Thorn UK, Ilesa Italy, or the like, as well as the tube, which was (if I remember well) not produced locally, although slightly bigger 6W and I think 8w T5 tubes were made by Tesla lamp factory in Yugoslavia. These lights continued to be made in the 1990's as well, and were often given as promotional giveaway items of domestic brands, often with printed logo on the side.