Let's take apart a 5000 Watt LED Solar PIR Motion Sensor Walleye Outdoor Street Garden Security Lamp 5000 watt induction Street Lamp Seven Pounds. That's very good value for a 5000 watt solar panel or or whatever it is, but it's not really is it? They can't even do their usual thing and say that's actually the model number. No, 500 watts is not the same as 616-1 which is the model number. However, what we do get is a very, very mass produced solar garden light, which might be useful, but we'll open it up and we'll take a look inside.

It comes with a shield shaped mounting thing for one, uh, some screws and roll plugs and the holographic packet that comes the remote control. And let's pull the little Tab out of that and prepare it for remote controlling. And it comes the light itself, which actually has a fairly decent ish solar panel laid into the plastic in the back. There's a little switch down here and when you turn it on you, it has the standard mode which is just passive infrared attacks movement.

It's got the second mode which is low level illumination but goes up to full intensity when it detects movement and the third mode is just low level illumination all night. But it's got the dusk detector based on the solar panel and it's got this infrared does infrared work off. Oh, that works on Uh mode one, mode two, and mode three. Yes, it does work.

SOS Really right? Well, thankfully the SOS button isn't working. Is that just called the police or something? I'm not really sure. Anyway, let's take it apart. That's odd.

I Kind of expect to go into strobing mode there, as they often do. What's the bet that this arrange ink is going to be just one panel with all the different sections on it? because these things are often sold with different arrays of their cob? LEDs But it looks suspicious like they're just basically random shapes on one common plate. I Wonder if the circuitry is on the same circuit board? It might be useful just for the bits. It may be useful as a light.

To be honest, let's not be too cynical. It's good value. What size is the Lithium cell going to be? Well, we can change that anyway. We can customize this to our hearts content.

Look at that. For a start. it's got an 18650 position. That means that we can upgrade this.

That means I can also check that for capacity. The circuit board looks like it's separate. Uh, what about the LED array? So this little plastic cover comes out. Off comes the reflector.

Yes, it's one panel. And then we've got the circuit board in here with the circuitry presumably in the back. If there is much circuitry, it's got a little clicky button. Uh, the switch incidentally breaks power completely to the Lithium cell.

That's good. I Shall put the Lithium cell on test. We shall see what capacity it is. What is the back of this? Okay, literally been chipped.

Not really an awful lot else. Okay, I shall do the usual one moment please. Reverse engineering is complete. Let's explore.

I Shall Zoom down in this a little bit just to get closer to the action. So one side of the circuit board is the infrared receiver for the remote control and that receives modulated infrared and decodes it. It's also got that dark filter to kind of try and exclude as much visible light as possible to increase sensitivity. Then we've got the password infrared detector.

This has two little sensors under here that generate a slight voltage when long wave infrared goes on them. and normally they're back to back so to speak. so they counteract each other and bounce out for the ambient level. But when you walk in front, there is a little polyethylene or polythene lens in front of it that concentrates the ambient movement.

the of the infrared onto that and it can see when you walk in front of it. a bright dot effectively passes over this and causes a fluctuation that is detected. and this little module actually is all the amplification and filtering all built into it. which is a good approach.

Actually makes things very simple. Then we have a clicky button for going through the modes. On the other side of the circuit board, we've got the ubiquitous eight Pin microcontroller. We've got a J3y Npn transistor.

I Thought this was going to be a fancy charge control chip I haven't colored that in I shall finish coloring that and not that yellow over black looks that great. Um, but I Thought this was going to be a fancy control trip, but it's not. It's the common approach these days of being controlled by the microcontroller and actually measuring the voltage there and then turn that transistor off. Quite odd circuitry.

Another bit the structure. You've got the switch there just bridging an input to ground. Uh, we've got the transistor that switches the LEDs that is an A2shb mosfet that is more or less it. I'll show you the schematic which will make more sense of this, although it is kind of like super simplified as they do so much these days.

Here's a solar panel and the supply monster panel. It's the zero volts. connect to the common zero volt realm and the positive goes to the input The Collector of this G3y transistor and they're switched to the Lithium cell. The Lithium cell is a little switchier um, as A so it can be isolated during storage and shipping.

When the sun shines upon the solar panel, it drives this transistor on by pulling its gate up positive with respect to the emitter, which is tied to the battery via this 100 ohm resistor that is also used. This is why there's a 100K resistor pulling to the zero volt reel for uh stability reasons. It also uses that lane to sense the voltage on the solar panel to detect The Dusk level and when it detects the cell is charged the full Voltage it effectively pulls that down to around the emitter level or lower and that will effectively turn that transistor off and will stop charging. Quite an odd circuit.

There's a decoupling capacitor across the whole circuit. There's no voltage regulation though, which is odd. And but there is an output. I Don't think the processor contains a built-in voltage regulator I could have checked that by powering it up and measuring the output voltage.

I may do that if I do that I shall put it in the description down below. Actually, no, I'll do it right now one moment, please, and proceed with test. So here is the supply voltage at the moment From the Bench power supply 4.14 volts. Here's the voltage going out in that PIN 4.13 So to all intense purposes, no regulation right here.

That's good. That solves that. I Was hoping there might have been some regulation, but having said that, the password infrared sensor here might have some sort of stability circuitry inside. or maybe it's just unstable.

Anyway, Um, the processor can switch. It's got It's got a auxiliary output that can switch power onto the infrared sensor and the passer infrared detector that they just basically do that probably to save current in standby mode, so it puts the positive out there. There's a coupling capacitor locally, and then you get the infrared modular signal back from the remote control and the movement detection. the pattern for Edge signal back.

you've got the switch. the little button that clicks between the modes and it just pulls to the zero volt reel of an internal pull-up resistor in the microcontroller. and that just leaves the LEDs which are just shown as one LED being switched by this mosfet and a 1K resistor to its gate. and then 100K pull down resistor and uh, that has no current limiting.

There's no resistor. that's quite odd and this thing I'm not sure what sort of current it would actually drive it with I'm not sure if they'd they're just using this as a basically and the wiring is a current limited Supply but it just seems a bit Reckless I'd rather have a resistor in there and anything else worth mentioning about this I don't think there is. It's about as simple as they could make it, the battery is still under test. let me just grab the battery.

at the moment. the battery is currently at 3.33 volts and showing 1223 milliamp hour, so it's probably going to be around about one point four and power battery which is okay. It's not great, but it's okay and there is always the option of upgrading it with a bigger cell that you can put in yourself, so that is it. The only Oddity here is the that mysterious circuitry that keeps popping up that relies in The processor measuring the its Supply voltage and then once it reaches a predetermined level, it actually pulls this to some degree below the Uh below the battery rail because then that's connected direct to the meter.

So as long as you get this pin here below about 0.6 volts above the battery voltage, it will uh, basically turn that off. so I'm not sure. I Also wonder if this is a special pin the processor just for that purpose because normally there's a anti-static protection pin going to the Uh positive? a diode in here and that would really mess. That would be effectively in parallel with the Junction in this transistor.

It's quite hard circuitry. I See it creeping up a lot? I'm not sure how good it is, but there we go. That is it. The 5000 watt solar powered, um, outdoor LED Street Lighty type thing.

It's neat enough. it does the job. It's a good starting block for for your own projects. Perhaps you could, uh, maybe put a resistor in, beef up the cell, maybe even add a bit of extra cell protection.

Could do lots of things. One thing I would do though is bypass the switch here because it's only really for shipping reasons and I'm not sure. this thing looks as though it will typically Shield water from the top fairly effectively. Oh, it's got a little gutter here, so it should hopefully shed water quite well.

Not sure, actually, that gutter may not be going all the way down with these fins, so the water will just spill over the sides anyway. Um, but that is it. The plastic cover does sort of recess in, so it should actually be fairly waterproof I would expect, but there we have it. the 5000 watt LED solar street light thing that isn't quite 5000 Watts but is nonetheless quite interesting and worth taking apart.