It is time to take a look at another of these weird sansi ceramic lamps. This time, it has their unusual modules that has a circle of LEDs on a ceramic heatsink assembly. and then they've got one, two, three, four, five of those. Each one is presumably reached about six.

Watts because when it's plugged into the power meter and turned on, this is going to be bright. by the way. Ow, it is very bright. Uh, it's showing as 30 Watts I'm not sure if you can see that or not.

30 watts and I can feel the heat radiating from this light. It is intense, right? That's enough of that. Now we've seen it on it. Oh, let's drop it now.

we've seen it lit. Let's take it apart. So I Put my super duper Chinese electrical test unit out the way. bring in a screwdriver and we'll see if we can work out how this comes apart.

The things I've noticed already: There's an Electronic Module in the back and it's been dipped in a coating, partially dipped in a coating I wonder if that's for moisture protection because these do seem to be being aimed at the Hydroponics type industry. The lamp cap has a soldered end. It's not just little press and stud. that's quite unusual and when you wiggle it, this back assembly is clipped on it all.

Clips Together, let's uh, start taking screws out and see how it comes apart. That was something avalanching onto my bench. It was a little uh I think it has a cold cathode layer I'm not really sure that will have its own video some other day. So for some bizarre reason and this is not the first time it's happened, this company I Don't know if it's a deliberate stunt they're doing or it's just a glitch in their ordering system I ordered one of these newbie two arrived I don't know why that is am I getting special special preferential treatment I was going to say special treatment, then preferential and then I mixed the two of them.

That almost said special preferential treatment. It's a good word I like it. is this going to come off oh I don't know if it is. Well, there's the screws, that's all the screws or other Clips as well I think there may be Clips as well.

everything does seem to clip together. Where's Mash bugger and we'll try it. spudging it I can see what it looks like? no that. I'm not really sure is this going to come out.

Hmm, not sure how this Clips together I think there may be Clips on the inside as well. I Mean they do tend to clip it together quite heavily. note that the airport in the middle for air to flow through this and all the heatsink fins at the back, but also there's a scoop inside as usual. see shortly.

Uh, this ain't obviously coming out I shall persist trying not to break it too much. Although apparently I do have a complete spear because of their weird delivery system, this is not wanting to come apart I may have to explore further. Is there something I should know here? Do I start getting violent with it? Where does it appear to be held? It does appear to be clipped in the middle right? Say well. I may have to pause and I shall explain how it came apart afterwards, probably exclusively at one moment.

Please progress so far. Absolute Carnage Uh, it. Clips On In so many ways it's got little clips that go in through here. It's got clips that go in through here and it looks as though the Central Court may be these clips here that I have to now get out.

Let's try this. Uh and then I'll pause again if if they're not coming out too quickly. it is very well clipped together. but then again, their last one was clipped together as well.

very well. Uh I Get the feeling oh oh, here we go here. We go here, we go here, we go. What do we have? Is this assembly gonna come out now? No.

it's also Clifton This is a joy. What about this little thing in here? I Don't recommend disassembling these. The last one was also clipped together in a manner that required dremeling to get a part. What have I got here? There are the connections into the circuit board for each of these modules are they held in largely by those solar connections and they are also clipped in into this plastic housing.

Okay, right, Say what? I think at this point in time I'm just going to disassemble the whole thing and we'll see how well it comes apart one moment. please. The destruction is now complete. Let's explore what's inside and the way they assemble this.

So the modules. the ceramic modules each has two pins sticking at the back of it, and to actually assemble it, it's key. There's a little indent here, so when you put it into the circuit board into the module, so to say it goes into this plastic front frame and it does actually go into a circuit board. there's a circuit board at the back and when I wiggle this a little bit, it may go through the circuit board.

There it is, it's gone through into the circuit board. I Think they put these in first and then put the soccer board over the top and then sew them in place. and this circuit board effectively connects all the modules in series to hold it in place. It has a little Rubber seal around it for presumably avoiding water and grass, and it's got a plastic clip.

When that plastic clip is pushed in, it locks it firmly in place. I Shall not leave it locked from in place though. I Did the hair tick one of these out, bent the pins back and powered up at low current so I could take a picture of it. I'll show you later how the LEDs are configured in it.

Slightly interesting, not what I was expecting. Once the LED modules are in and that circuit board is in, the two wires that feed the circuit board are threaded through this little port and this assembly and this assembly here is then slid down over that and clipped on with its own. Clips then this back plate, the wires are fed through here with that little sort of almost like a little conjured. It's quite neat and when that is pressed down it is clipped in and it also Clicks in solid in the base.

I Suppose they could actually connect the power supply at that point, but this is a standard Buck regulator and it is sat down into the base with the wires taken out. The bottom, one up the side are well in the case of well, they only do headers and screw as far as I know, one up the side and one going to the end pin and when that's done this is then actually clipped into there and locks in. Solid. Very, very hard getting that part.

The other element here is of course the five screws in the front. Let's take a closer look at the LEDs because it's quite an interesting approach. So here is the schematic. It's basically just the data sheet.

It's a bright power data sheet, but let's take a look at the LEDs first. If we take a look in the end of one of those, maybe I'll brighten this up a little bit. Let's try and brightness up. that's that's swampy.

swampy. But not to worry, it's going to make this more visible. But uh, we have the two pins here coming in. the positive of the negative and it feeds three sections of LEDs and these are not flip chip LEDs These are the stand.

You can actually see the bond wires jumping from Led to LED and there are 12 LEDs in series and the red lead comes on here and it bonds onto that side of this string. so that's the positive at that end and the negative is at this end of this section. but then it's got a track going around the outside here that comes in here and it's also a negative connection going over here to here. And what that means is each set of LEDs has a positive, a negative at each end and they're just linked across in the series.

And that means that each section is roughly about 35 or 36 volts, giving 170 volts the whole lot. and now it's swamp out time. one moment. I'm just going to tame this down.

it has been teamed down actually. if I zoom down this now, you will actually see the individual LEDs and you may even see the bond wires just a little diagonal Bond bars jumping across there I Don't know if you can see that. it's a very fuzzy because it's underneath the uh, the gel the phosphor gel. The circuit board is using a Bp2867g.

The closest data sheet I could find was XJ, but it's the same pin out. it's got the current sense resistor. In this case, it's actually got three current Cent resistors. Unfortunately, the circuit board itself, whereas it is dipped in a very gooey bit too many type stuff, very hard to get off.

but I did manage to get uh, get it off most things to actually see what they are. Um, so there's actually three current sense resistors in parallel, so they could fine tune the value. 3 Ohm, three ohm, and 3.6 ohm. I shall draw the Om symbol Them technically speaking, that means the easiest way to hack this for lower power to dubi it.

If you could get in through the side of this and you could access this cluster of three resistors, you could theoretically just snap one of them off and it would lower the power from about 30 Watts down to 20 watts roughly. Um, there are other things here. It's got. well.

it shows a fuse here. It's actually a fusible resistor with a value of quite an odd value 3.9 Ohm, 3.9 ohms. Also, there's an inductor and another capacitor. I Thought they'd been inside the sort of main side before going to the Fairly chunky Bridge rectifier.

but they're actually after the rectifier. So we have the inductor is up here for noise suppression and also there's a resistor across it and that resistor has a value of 3 K3 3300 Ohms. Um, what else is worth mentioning here? There is no over voltage protect resistor. What the over voltage Protect Uh does is it can let you set a threshold current through that resistor that will determine the volt maximum open circuit voltage across the LEDs.

In this case, they've not got it. So if the LEDs went open circuit, the voltages fly up to the full Voltage I Don't think it's a an issue because normally, uh, like this little capacitor here. can I even read that capacitor? It's very hard to get the goo off it. I Know that this one is 22 megap.

It's a death beaming capacitor 220 microfarad uh 400 volt. It also has a little filter capacitor across it 220 Nano farad uh 450 volt which is an odd voltage. That's well, that's if I read it correctly off that uh, this capacitor here can I did I read the voltage off that I think I ended up just measuring it very. It's the goo is very rubbery, it doesn't come off very easily and it depends which side it's on.

uh I think I'd have to take that capacitor out. but I can tell you that the value of that capacitor is 3.3 microfarad and given that they have given the size of it that they have no over voltage protect I'm just going to guess it's 400 volt again. I Shall make a guess. there's the interference pressure inductor.

There's the Box the inductor there that is used in the output and it's the usual circuit. It's the one that switches the drain to the ground via the current sense resistors until it reaches the Threshold at which there's a voltage across. Those of about between 0.2.6 depends in the circuit. Uh.

and in that time current flows through the LEDs and through the inductor and then doctor pushes back against initially as it builds up its magnetic field and then when it collapses that was positive there and negative. Then it goes negative positive when it turns off and that results in the current flowing through this diode which was it's the Diode Uh, es3j, ES S 3, J or J depending on where you are how you pronounce that letter and that's more or less it. It's an interesting construction. a very complex construction.

I Wonder how long these will last because each head is dissipating. basically about six watts of power from that smaller rear. LEDs There are, however, 180 LEDs in this Uh given the configuration of 36 LEDs per head, so that should spread the dissipation. That is that fairly unique ceramic Um housing that is designed to dissipate the Heat and allow the sort of ventilation through it.

so I'm not sure that'll go. Certainly, The chips appear to be bonded directly onto the ceramic which is unusual and then covered with a little Wick there the little Dam of silicon and then poured in the sort of like the phosphorylated silicon. It's interesting. It'll be interesting to see how the last, indeed, but that I think that's more or less it.

That is our hugely complicated um LED lamp I should put this down here. Um, and it's unusual emitters the ceramic LED emitters. Fascinating stuff. So I've got another one in order and another light here with RGB It's actually the sections in here are red, green, blue so I will explore those at some point.

I Would have gone further with this, but it really is. I mean I've reverse engineered it. It's basically the datasheet uh, textbook data sheet, but just made somewhat Harder by this uh, sticky coating. But that is it.

The um. 30 watt ceramic light.