Greetings, comrades from the rasiska thome corporatsa translation voice over by bmi russia welcome to the russian nuclear corporation project. This is a set of circuit boards, i'll zoom down, so you can get a closer look at them that i bought well, i designed it. I submitted it to glc pcb, not a sponsor. I submitted it as two separate circuit boards, uh covered by one shipment interesting.

The first one cost two pounds, the second one. They must be partly funny with the shipping cost. It was four pounds, so you can't just keep adding two pound orders on and the idea of this is it's going to be uh ionic emitter that connects to high voltage supply. But the difference is that i i'm going to have needles in it, but i'm going to have little sockets needed it's going to be completely serviceable, and this will allow you to convert standard, cheap, high voltage, ebay, ionizer modules like say, for instance, this one into controllable Ozone generators of your choice: let's begin the project so to allow the connectors to go in.

I've got three needles here. I've got three pads with quite big holes and a connection pad for the high voltage. I've got the ex side pads with a isolation slot in the circuit board, and this is then going to be stood off in front of it and it's got the antennas, a grounded antenna so to speak with electrical connection option but also connection via the pillars. That will keep this together.

It's just experimental. This is a prototype just as well. Really, since i spelt it wrong, this was supposed to say, atmospheric invigorator. I did a complete sean connery from russia with love.

I said at mushperic, invigorator moneypenny, let's start building it, so the natos are going to go into little sockets. The little sockets are from turned, pin sockets like these, you can buy sets of these in ebay. You can get big strips of it, not the sort of leaf spring contact, but the actual turned pin is actually a round pin designed to take well round receptacle design. Take round pins.

You can press them out if you get a pair of side cutters and you grip the pin at the back we're going to be cutting the pin off anyway, but we grip the pin and press it down and say something like across a hole like this. There's a bit of a bump out the speaker, press it down and it pops out and that's you've, got your little socket. As i say the pins in the back. It doesn't matter if they get bent, i'm going to be cutting them off anyway, and this should be sized to fit in here.

It's a friction fit oh right. I'm going to press it in with the kinapex it's in a very close friction fit. That is because i used the calipers to check the size and now i'm going to solder them in and then i'll show you how and tend to put the needles into them. So i'm gon na make sure these are pressed down firmly, so they're all the same height and then i'm gon na solder them on the back, bring in the soldering iron.

So there's pin holder one pin, holder, two and pin holder three and the pins are going to be using. These are going to be standard, sewing type pins, just because they're convenient, i think, they're stainless steel, or at least steel anyway, that they stuck to a magnet. Probably more steel than stainless steel, i'm going to flow some solder onto these, just the rectangular pads, both of them just for options, but i want to keep the main round pads in this clear. Now i'm going to crop the actual the original pins off the back of these, because they're not needed.

Okay. Okay, now this the needles are going to be connected to negative high voltage. This is going to be connected to the high voltage ground effect, they're positive, and that means the ions are going to be attracted towards this there's going to be a lot of ozone activity in the this area, and i expect to corrode so to actually sort of Mitigate that, to a degree i'm going to flow some soda onto these, so at the way i prefer to do that to beef these pads up. Yes, this means it's going to be atomizing lead everywhere.

Probably it's not really, but your goodness knows what's going to happen, this thing literally, this device, literally disassembles air molecules, gas molecules in the air and then reforms them it's quite it sounds very spicy. It sounds very russian nuclear corporation-ish, incidentally, rasisca tomek is indeed russian nuclear corporation, but there's no organization actually called that. Not that i know of i didn't find one i searched in the internet. I did not find a russian nuclear corporation.

Now i've uh put those little dots of sewed around that i'm just going to swipe the solder and i'm going to follow it around in a circle a couple of times, and it will even the solder out and it'll basically cool. Those pads may require a bit of experimentation, don't linger too long. You may pop the tracks off the circuit board material, but having said that, these are pretty good quality. Uh glc are not a sponsored glc pcb.

They did very generously in the huge box. Send me a jigsaw puzzle which i think is their factory. I don't really expect to be building that anytime soon, but not to worry now the needles. These are standard steel, needles, pins and i've marked them at roughly about eight millimeters, just over a quarter of an inch in the end, and i'm going to cut them now with my canipex.

This is probably canifex abuse at this canipex abuse. It's going to be quite tough on the blades, because it's quite hard steel, it's probably not something i should be doing with my canipix, but i am - and it's also going to be creating a loud speaker pop, probably as happens with uh, when you make loud clicking Noises in front of a microphone - oh well! Let me just grab this last one. What is sticking magnetically to it? That might not be the purest stainless steel. I'm not sure these are all i've got.

Is i do even the lid for the container? So i'm not really sure if they are, i could tell the diameter that be useful. The the blades are surviving right too. I'm just going to grab my good uh digital calipers and i'm going to measure this on zero uh point six five millimeters say yep. That's about right, so you want roughly 0.6 ish type uh, make sure to turn that off pins, they're very cheap.

Now, what i'm going to do is i'm going to take a pair of long nose pliers that is not a pair of long nose pliers where my longest pliers there. They are. Oh there's that another circuit design that comes later on, that is for measurements, and i'm going to take these pins that i've just cut - and this is the joy of this unit versus other units that you can buy this one. You can actually change needles in just by pressing them into these sockets.

The reason i've got that needle there with a bit blue ink in it is because i've noticed with some of them you have to. I don't know if i was big what i was cutting them with before, but i found that it was quite helpful at times i'm trying to pick that pin up my fingers are too big big bare hands. Oh even my snips out just pick up magnetically that'll. Do i found it was quite useful in some instances to take a standard needle.

I marked it, so i didn't use it because this could potentially blunt it and just push it pointy end in and that kind of settles the little contact springs as it is. It doesn't seem to be much of an issue with these. They seem to be going in quite well, so we're going to grip them in the long-range player and stuff them into those little sockets, some commercial ionizers. Do you let you change needles like this, the posh ones, the good ones, some of them sell you designer needles that are special because they emit ingestible ions.

There's no such thing. It's just ions, it's charged air molecules. Suppose really you could ingest them if you wanted. I'm not sure if that'd be good or bad now.

Let me think. Let me think, how am i going to do this? I think i shall put screw through here. Spring washers have been quite useful for this little serrated washers, but this is a prototype, so i'm going to screw a little brass spacer on you could just use uh screws with nuts it's sized for m3. This one, if there's any interest i'll put the vowels for these up the gerber files i'll have to correct the spelling.

Mistake, though i'd feel a bit odd about that. So now i'm putting that on like that - and this is where it's going to make connection with the pads at the back. By going through, like this notice, how the rings are now effectively in front of the needles and i'm going to put a nut in the back and then i'm going to grab a high voltage supply, probably a low voltage one. I do currently have a favorite.

It was featured in a recent video, so i shall spin that one i'll give it a wee nib up to make sure it's tight, and this is our rather sophisticated russian nuclear corporation uh atmospheric invigorator red. It's quite a smart, little module. It's got these holes here. It's designed to mount onto a case, i think, if i was mounting onto a case, to avoid uh violating the sort of insulation, the separation of these slots.

I'd probably jack it up a bit, but not. This is another good thing, because we're making these ourselves, we don't have to follow electrical safety regulations designed for normal people. We can make it safe with current limiting, but the whole lot can be exposed so, like babies can put their fingers and things like that, because if the babies get a shock, it serves them right right. Tell you what let's grab a high voltage module? I'm gon na grab one of my favorites right now, my favorite, because it's got two connections.

Well, let's get the four connectors effectively. Let's get positive and negative 12 volts make sure it is a 12 volt one, and then it's got a white wire and a green wire and they're both currently coming out to carbon brush emitters. The white one is a high negative voltage. The green one is effectively the ground of the circuitry, the high voltage circuitry inside.

If you get an ionizer like this one, which just has the single output and i'd recommend getting a beefier module for this, the more the higher it is, the bigger it is, the more ozone it will produce, but uh, that's something you can actually use or scale It by adjusting it to whatever you want, if you use something like this, this one is a oh. This is 110 to 220 volt. This module you're going to have to use the. If it's only got a single output.

This will be the high negative voltage. That goes to the needles, but you're going to have to then provide a connection to the neutral and i'd recommend doing that via well. I'd recommend doing if you're going to use the mains voltage modules, i'd recommend putting at least one or two one mega ohm resistors and series of these wires inside the case just to actually limit the current case. Someone touches the needles or case it just makes a whole lot live right.

Tell you what i'm going to cut this set of emitters off and then i'm going to attach the wires onto my russian nuclear atmospheric invigorator. So i'm going to strip these soft silicone wires. Here and the green one is the set effectively electronic ground. Where is the i have misplaced? The soda i have more soda, that's okay! I shall tin these connections afterwards, i'm going to test this i'm going to see.

Is it producing a decent amount of ozone? So i've just turned those connections. The white one is going on to the central needle connection here and the green one that ground effectively the electronics at the ground. I'm going to put onto this connection here and now, if i power this module up, this is a 12-volt module 12 volts, a good idea, because uh in this instance, unlike an ionizer that can create high voltage to ground and damage power supplies this one should effectively Be an ionic short circuit between the uh, the needles and the rings here so power supply is on. Let's see what happens, is it going to work uh? Let me just check what voltage says at first.

It's 12 volts! Oh it's working! So when i hold this up gingerly because it is high voltage and could give me a little zing if i hold it up to the microphone, you should hear the air flowing from it and maybe a slight hum as well. Can you hear anything? Oh and i can smell the ozone, this is very interesting. Oh i'm gon na get zapped off. This is spicy voltages right table.

I'm going to set up a little test now and i'll be back in a moment and we'll see how quickly this produces ozone. I think we're ready to begin the experiment, so the thing we're looking at i'm just going to turn the power on the unit is now producing ozone. This unit, in here the value marked o3, is the one we're looking for and we're looking to time that for how long it's going to actually take before it starts showing a little hint of ozone. Generally speaking, i would expect it to appear with an average ozone generator within about a minute, but it just depends how high an output this unit's producing.

Incidentally, this module is uh using 12 volts dc at just 17 milliamps, it's very very little, so it builds out. It's triggered it's starting to read it now: three parts per million, four parts per million five and it will continue to climb. So that is actually that was quite quick that it started producing the ozone. So, let's see how far it goes, let's see what it goes up to within a reasonable time.

Actually, it's claiming a fairly high lick that is quite an output from that little unit. It's not bad at all. Right. Tell you what i'm gon na pause and actually i'm gon na pause.

Actually, i'm not gon na pause. I'm just gon na keep talking, because i it's claiming a theory. This particular ozone detector is just it likes to try zeroing itself out it. It's okay for doing tests like this, but it's not what i'd call a perfect ambient ozone detector.

So it goes off in a number of steps and then it will just nudge back. Oh, that is claiming super fast. That is actually it's about to go into alarm mode. That was fast at 0.1 parts per million.

It will start beeping, it's beeping, so that is working. Let's say open this up and sniff the ozone. Oh, it stinks yeah that is producing a fairly decent amount for such a low power consumption. That is very impressive, very good.

You saw that tail off because as soon as it opened that it just let it clear out, but this is uh. This is working a treat. Oh yes, it does create quite a strong draft i'll. Let you hear the draft before i'll hold up to the microphone again.

You can hear that draft blowing at the needles um. I don't think you'll see if i turn the light off. It'll just go pitch black, probably even if i do this, are you going to see the glow in the needles? Even i can't see glowing needles because my eyes are adjusted to that light, or i can just barely see the glow in needles you're not going to catch it. This camera is not sensitive enough, but what i'm seeing here is that each needle has a little tiny purple point on the tip of it, but that's a good result.

Uh watch your eyes. The light is coming back, so yes, that is a good result. This thing is doing exactly what i wanted it to do, and i like the fact that, if you use one of these, you can actually change these needles. You can adjust the distance between the rings, the needles, according to the voltage of what gives the best results.

There's a quite a decent flow of air. Out of that and uh, i made three different uh hole sizes, so i've got the option of just one big hole in the middle or the two, smaller ones or the three. But i did notice that the purple glow because of the space effect, because this larger diameter hole, although needles, were all the same distance away from it, is a bit dimmer that one because the voltage, the ionization is happening preferentially to the smaller holes. Just because i'm much closer to the uh to the needles, but that is a very good result, a very good result indeed, so that is the russian nuclear corporation atmospheric invigorator, with iron thruster technology,.