I've previously made lamps like this by gluing a test-tube into a lamp base with two part resin, but it was always tricky keeping the tube straight and fully pressed in against air pressure while waiting for the glue to cure.
This approach uses a simple 3D adaptor to make it easy to fit the tube over the electronics, while providing extra insulation that extends down into the base and allowing pressure equalisation if something fails in the tube. (Noting that there's always a possibility of broken glass if something fails as with traditional lamps.)
The circuitry is a simple classic capacitive dropper, and I ended up managing to fit in about 26 RGB slow colour changing straw-hat style LEDs. Note that it's better to use the slow change RGB LEDs instead of the fast flashing ones as there will be a high open circuit voltage across a flashing LED while it's not lit and that might damage it. You could also use standard LEDs for continuous illumination. The light only uses about 1W of power, so it's more for decorative use than room lighting.
Here's the text file that you should hopefully be able to copy and paste into openSCAD.
//Test tube lamp to base adaptor. Big Clive 4th Jan 2020.
difference(){
union(){
//We start by adding solid objects to make the overall shape.
//Larger upper cylindrical section that goes into base.
//25mm (12.5mm radius) to fit existing lamp base.
translate([0, 0, 0])
cylinder(h = 10, r1 = 12.5,r2 = 12.5);
//Smaller cylindrical section that goes into lower base area.
translate([0, 0, -10])
cylinder(h = 8, r1 = 10.5,r2 = 10.5);
//Slight taper section between two cylindrical sections.
//(Mainly for support during printing.)
translate([0, 0, -2])
cylinder(h = 2, r1 = 10.5,r2 = 12.5);
// Squashed sphere to create rounded rim.
translate([0, 0, 12])
scale([1, 1, 0.33])
sphere(r=15);
}
//Now we're removing bits from the solid object.
//18.5mm (9.25mm radius) hole through middle for test tube.
translate([0, 0, -14])
cylinder(h = 50, r1 = 9.25,r2 = 9.25);
//Slight inner recess at top to hide oozed glue.
translate([0, 0, 9])
cylinder(h = 10, r1 = 10.5,r2 = 10.5);
}
openSCAD is a script based CAD system that lets you build printable objects based on adding and subtracting just a few solid objects like cubes, cylinders and spheres. It sounds simple, but in reality it can create very complex objects, and because the file is a simple script you can change parameters easily to tweak a model to your own requirements.
Half of the script above is comments I've added to make it easier to understand.
An excellent starting guide for openSCAD:-
https://cubehero.com/2013/11/19/know-only-10-things-to-be-dangerous-in-openscad/
The main openSCAD website for downloading the free software is here:-
https://www.openscad.org/
There's a version of openSCAD that can run in a browser, but it's not compatible with the file above.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
This approach uses a simple 3D adaptor to make it easy to fit the tube over the electronics, while providing extra insulation that extends down into the base and allowing pressure equalisation if something fails in the tube. (Noting that there's always a possibility of broken glass if something fails as with traditional lamps.)
The circuitry is a simple classic capacitive dropper, and I ended up managing to fit in about 26 RGB slow colour changing straw-hat style LEDs. Note that it's better to use the slow change RGB LEDs instead of the fast flashing ones as there will be a high open circuit voltage across a flashing LED while it's not lit and that might damage it. You could also use standard LEDs for continuous illumination. The light only uses about 1W of power, so it's more for decorative use than room lighting.
Here's the text file that you should hopefully be able to copy and paste into openSCAD.
//Test tube lamp to base adaptor. Big Clive 4th Jan 2020.
difference(){
union(){
//We start by adding solid objects to make the overall shape.
//Larger upper cylindrical section that goes into base.
//25mm (12.5mm radius) to fit existing lamp base.
translate([0, 0, 0])
cylinder(h = 10, r1 = 12.5,r2 = 12.5);
//Smaller cylindrical section that goes into lower base area.
translate([0, 0, -10])
cylinder(h = 8, r1 = 10.5,r2 = 10.5);
//Slight taper section between two cylindrical sections.
//(Mainly for support during printing.)
translate([0, 0, -2])
cylinder(h = 2, r1 = 10.5,r2 = 12.5);
// Squashed sphere to create rounded rim.
translate([0, 0, 12])
scale([1, 1, 0.33])
sphere(r=15);
}
//Now we're removing bits from the solid object.
//18.5mm (9.25mm radius) hole through middle for test tube.
translate([0, 0, -14])
cylinder(h = 50, r1 = 9.25,r2 = 9.25);
//Slight inner recess at top to hide oozed glue.
translate([0, 0, 9])
cylinder(h = 10, r1 = 10.5,r2 = 10.5);
}
openSCAD is a script based CAD system that lets you build printable objects based on adding and subtracting just a few solid objects like cubes, cylinders and spheres. It sounds simple, but in reality it can create very complex objects, and because the file is a simple script you can change parameters easily to tweak a model to your own requirements.
Half of the script above is comments I've added to make it easier to understand.
An excellent starting guide for openSCAD:-
https://cubehero.com/2013/11/19/know-only-10-things-to-be-dangerous-in-openscad/
The main openSCAD website for downloading the free software is here:-
https://www.openscad.org/
There's a version of openSCAD that can run in a browser, but it's not compatible with the file above.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Having a stylish shape for your rectifiers is sooooo important
I'm keen to make some of these for shit's and giggles housed in empty spice jars, but I'm not sure of the resistor ratings the DC side look like 1/4 watt, but the 10 ohm on the AC side looks bigger 1w? Please advise, cheers
Clive I really love your simple circuits but would like to see how you could improve the power factor on something like this. Maybe a future video?
Dear Clive, One of your very best projects, thanks.
Use in a lightsaber,
Looks very Steampunk.
I haven't got to the end yet… but a thought along the way: could you not have recessed the components deeper into the bayonette base by removing the original lamp wires, and soldering component leads straight into the base?
I've done a few mods and repairs in that way down the decades, both with ES and bayonette bases of different sizes.
Clive suggestion software permitting, draw/sketch desired cross-section in CAD package and then spin it around axis to create solid , = sexier shapes
I would like to have seen what it looked like after say 20 mins and whether the LEDs in random colours does look as nice as the synchronised colour.
Where can you get lamp bases like that from?
Yeah, I know how it is when you wanna get into something new but don't really wanna spend so much time just figuring out how to. And don't get me wrong, code CAD software can be very powerful in some specific cases. But I think in most cases, especially with rather complicated geometry, it'll take you longer to write code than to use some software with a more graphical and let it do the math for you. I know there is a wide variety of different CAD software out there. And I guess everyone has to figure out what works the best for them. But personally I think I would recommend Fusion360 to you. And while I'm at it, I would also suggest getting used to working with parameters as soon as possible. Parameters are essentially the variables that define the dimensions of geometries etc. and you can basically define your own variables and change them later if you need to. And let me tell you, it's extraordinarily useful to be able to completely change the dimensions of things in your design later on just by entering a number in a text field somewhere. Especially when 3D printing things with very tight tolerances, which can be a little unpredictable and take some trial and error. In those cases parameters can make things so much easier.