Sometimes you find a product that ticks all the boxes for functionality, but then fails horribly because of poor manufacturing quality control. Like this Silverline 3 in 1 electrical tester for instance.
It's also worth mentioning that this style of tester usually has a voltage range marked for AC and DC voltage with the higher DC voltage relating to the equivalent peak AC RMS voltage. This is usually indicated by a DC or AC symbol, but during the cloning process they seem to have replaced both with just a dash. (V-)
If you enjoy the videos on this channel you can help support it with a dollar for coffee, cookies and substandard electrical test equipment at https://www.patreon.com/bigclive
It's also worth mentioning that this style of tester usually has a voltage range marked for AC and DC voltage with the higher DC voltage relating to the equivalent peak AC RMS voltage. This is usually indicated by a DC or AC symbol, but during the cloning process they seem to have replaced both with just a dash. (V-)
If you enjoy the videos on this channel you can help support it with a dollar for coffee, cookies and substandard electrical test equipment at https://www.patreon.com/bigclive
Hi Clive hope your keeping safe and well.
That voltage indicator I had one back in the 80s when I first qualified, never had a problem with it other than that it lasted all of six months and just stopped working , I just got a black one as a free gift with a new crimp tool it an 8in1 rated for 6-380 DC and 6 – 370 AC .
I have tried it on a 240 v supply and it perfectly fine , but I do have two problems with it 1) they donโt conform to GS38 2) if you test line to neutral itโs fine but line to earth it bangs out the RCD / RCBO . So not suitable for safe isolation , I will keep it as a simple tester to nothing more for real work Iโll stick to my GS38 approved voltage indicator . The big problem is they are available to whoever wants to buy them , mostly people who donโt really know what they are doing when theyโre tinkering with electricians , for people like you and me they are fine as we know what we are doing.
This and the other video you did on theses cheep things are fantastic ๐โค๏ธ
Fantastic video as always mate โค๏ธ๐๐๐๐
ะะพัะตะผั ัะฐะทะพัะฐัะพะฒะฐะป
HI CLIVE !!! How about taking the label off and making the holes bigger with a soldering iron or a file. (Love all the Videos !!!)
I want to 8 in 1 voltage tester in this same pen . Can you share circuit for 8 in 1 voltage tester ? (12v,24v,50v,110v,220v,380v,500v,1000v)
ะะพะถะตัะต ะณะปัะฝััั ะฝะฐ ัะตััะตั ะ ะตัะฐะฝัะฐ 6890-63 8 ะฒ 1 ???
Poor quality..it's very dangerous if you tested it in high voltage.
The "supervisors" where I work must be moonlighting at the company that manufactures those probes. They suck at my company also.
Useless.
I bought this just moments ago. Wouldnโt have had I seen your video, built quality seems inferior. Anyway do you think I can use this for general circuit continuity test?
silverline tape measures last about 20 minutes before the grip to hold the tape stops gripping, also if you just let them reel back too fast the hook bends and the tape goes inside the casing making it completely useless.
I still can't get past "one hand in the pocket." Fluke probes are safe. But I revert to training (10" spanner to the helmet) as apprentice.
Everything with Silverline written on it is crap, EVERYTHING, nothing they sell is worth having.
You can drill it
I'd attack it with my dremel personally
Any Silverline tool from electronics testing to wood work tools are total shite
You could fix it with a dremel.
its not a case of neon holes havn't been filled in when molded, its an led version thats been rejected due to plastic not flowing fully and leaving gaps. so they put neons in the rejected cases and sold them on.
its not bad quality control, its intentional use of faulty cases to get rid of them.
A repurposed casing.