This thing is huge and bright. It runs at around 12V, but has no integrated current regulation. This means that if connected directly in a vehicle application the current could be very high and the voltage drop across the supply cable will be a factor in limiting the current.
The circuitry is basically four large parallel arrays of LEDs connected in series to make up roughly 12V combined forward voltage. I did some voltage/current tests as follows:-
10V 7mA 70mW
10.5V 170mA 1.8W
11V 790mA 8.7W
11.5V 1.72A 19.8W
12V 2.85A 34W
12.5V 4.2A 52W
12.8V 5.2A 66W Current Limit of bench supply.
As you can see form the voltage to current ratio the current increases significantly with a small voltage change.
A typical eBay search for this might be:-
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X70w+led+cob+panel+12v.TRS1&_nkw=70w+led+cob+panel+12v&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_odkw=70w+led+cob+panel&LH_BIN=1&LH_TitleDesc=0
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
The circuitry is basically four large parallel arrays of LEDs connected in series to make up roughly 12V combined forward voltage. I did some voltage/current tests as follows:-
10V 7mA 70mW
10.5V 170mA 1.8W
11V 790mA 8.7W
11.5V 1.72A 19.8W
12V 2.85A 34W
12.5V 4.2A 52W
12.8V 5.2A 66W Current Limit of bench supply.
As you can see form the voltage to current ratio the current increases significantly with a small voltage change.
A typical eBay search for this might be:-
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X70w+led+cob+panel+12v.TRS1&_nkw=70w+led+cob+panel+12v&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_odkw=70w+led+cob+panel&LH_BIN=1&LH_TitleDesc=0
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
hot clothing iron is vice of knowledge -great tip!
I want to use direct from 12.7v battery for a work shop light,would that work without overheating?
I don't know much about it, but why not use a single massive diode (with a heat sink and cooling fan)? Id'e think just the normal emission layers but the cathode is made of copper and also functions as the heat sink. then to serve as the anode would be a layer of indium tin oxide with a grid or rows of thin copper busses to carry electricity to the indium tin oxide.
THis just showed up and I can't believe it's been 5 years already, I bought some of these when you made this video,
Could I run this on a constant voltage 12v psu with no other circuitry?
I'm going to install some of these LED light panels in my 1986-vintage motorhome to replace the 12V bulb-type fixtures that are in there now. I will be living in the motorhome full-time (in a static position) starting later today (hopefully!).
A few years ago, I installed one in a shipping container house that runs from a PV array and a 200AH 12V AGM battery. I have been VERY impressed by it. It's cheap, and has very "soft" output because of the large area.
The motorhome has ONLY 12VDC lighting, so unless I plug in a bunch of extension cords and put up 120VAC lighting, 12VDC is all I can do. Given that I'll eventually be off-grid with the motorhome, 12VDC is actually an advantage for me, as I can run all my lights directly from the PV-charged battery in the RV, without needing to have an inverter on when only lighting is needed. These panels can be easily dimmed, too, so they use just a tiny amount of power to put out plenty of light for most situations, but crank up the knob and they get HELLA bright!
Thanks from Texas Clive
How can you run this at home?
100
Curious, why couldnt i just use a soldering iron? Is there no soldering pads?
Nice. I put two RGBW panels on my sound bar for graphic equalizer, and the specs says needed 76 watt PSU for each panel of 8 x 32 LED's for 256 LEDs per panel. Well 76 watts blinds you. In reality, even hidden behind speaker cloth, in daylight, the panel is perfectly visible at 2 watts per panel. The sound bar is on my channel if you want to see it.
I have to make a choice between variable voltage supplies. Should I go for a 3v-12v 10 amp regulated power supply or a 9v-24v 5 amp power supply?
I also just connected one of these COB panels to a bench power supply. Using a 5v-24v dimmer switch, I was able to click on 100% brightness without the light blinking , though I don't think this was the true 100% brightness, as my bench supply was putting out a max of only16.4v at 3.16 amps (maybe the max for my bench supply), which is only 51.8 watts. This panel should be rated somewhere between 70 watts to 100 watts.
My question is what is the ideal DC power supply to get maximum wattage out of this panel? Should I stick with 12v and get something that can put out at least 7 amps, or should I go to 24 volts? I will always be running the light with an LED dimmer switch.
Lighting on the cobb? Everything is on the cobb? Quick we gotta get out of here!!
Great videos Clive. Can I ask what company you got this big cob from and what website ? Thanks bud for all your great videos
I personally don't like them, because one failure and the whole things is a throw away. Instead I put together my own LED lights using usually 1w diodes, these are attached to a heatsink and then a diffusion panel places over them so the light in the room is diffused into one light and you don't get multiple shadows from separate beams. I have had one LED light I made running for every night for 20 straight years, so it's perfectly effective.
Despite there being no failure as of yet, if there is a failure, you would simply take out the diode that failed and replace it with another diode, so the entire thing wouldn't be a throwaway, but an easy thing to fix. I run mine with a simple cheap LED driver, which changes 230 into 12v at a constant current, the driver is encased in a plastic box, inside that box I assume it's similar to the driver you would find in the base of an LED bulb, the little transformer and capacitor plus diodes setup essentially.
Ages ago I bought some cheap Chinese bulbs, and a diode in the bulb failed, yet it's worth taking out the AC to DC power circuit in it, you can use these to power other LED's easily.