This light was sent by Miek (Me-Yack) after he bought it on eBay but wasn't sure about the wiring colours. In reality it's quite an odd arrangement. To get an earth/ground connection on the metal baseplate of these lights a separate earth wire and eyelet/fork crimp onto a case screw is probably best.
It's most likely the yellow wire is an override for the PIR sensor function. If you used a two way switch that toggled between the red and yellow wire it would switch between continuous-on and automatic mode.
The high apparent power when the light is off is due to the use of a simple capacitive dropper power supply for the circuitry that has to provide enough current to activate the relay. If your utility company charges for apparent power, as many can do with the smart meters, then it means this light could cost as much to run when it's off as when it's on. Not many utility companies do charge for apparent power yet, but it's going to be a thing in the future because.... profit.
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It's most likely the yellow wire is an override for the PIR sensor function. If you used a two way switch that toggled between the red and yellow wire it would switch between continuous-on and automatic mode.
The high apparent power when the light is off is due to the use of a simple capacitive dropper power supply for the circuitry that has to provide enough current to activate the relay. If your utility company charges for apparent power, as many can do with the smart meters, then it means this light could cost as much to run when it's off as when it's on. Not many utility companies do charge for apparent power yet, but it's going to be a thing in the future because.... profit.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
I presume it flashes to indicate power as if connected during daylight hours ? I have a security plug that can randomly switch a lamp on when your away. That does the same.
Could the wiring going into the fitting being : Back = neutral
: Red. = live feed to supply the detector
: Yellow = switched supply to override the sensor ?
Not watched the rest of the video yet so I don't know if that's what you came up with or not, keep up the great videos
Wonder how they get certified .ETL ,tUV ,CSA,ULC ????
I have 4 square versions of this, 2 in landings, 2 in bathrooms. Beautiful white light that after about 18 months of use, the diffuser on all of them has turned a brown colour…Something special in the plastic that's affected by LED's ??
"The plastic is combustible… yeah, that's not so great"
Haha love it 😀 this is why you buy better quality light fittings, or risk the fact that a problem with the light fitting (which makes it go on fire) could then make the entire area the light is installed in go on fire…
Everything is self extinguishing. It's simply a question of is the reason it stops burning. Is because it's completely consumed or because it was designed to stop burning sooner.
Those led drivers are "constant current" instead of constant voltage, which I suppose it's why there is no feedback as the chip can probably work out how much current the primary is taking
Hi ppl, does anyone know where i can get a repelcement for the driver, mine has stopped responding, i can hear the click when passing by the light but does not activate the lights?
👍👍🥃
It's a tit.
Interesting that the 'hoppy' actually became clear and easily readable when the exposure was up in the 'all white' LOL
Most plastics just have to pass a "Glow Wire" test. The wire has a temperature of 650 C
Thanking you for Uploading such useful videos with Schematics
ÕwÕ Ralph? Do we have a boyfriend alert?
That pop is infact what is known as a spark gap, an electrical arc between contacts, they used spark gap transmitters in the old days, known as Morse code.