This meter is one of a range that are sold under various brands which originate from a large manufacturer of multimeters. This particular style has a slight design weakness that can result in the selector shaft splitting the socket that it mates with on the rotating contact assembly.
This video shows how to replace the rotating contact assembly if you can get one from the original supplier of the meter.
My mention of Dave at EEVblog is regarding his amusing contempt for cheaper meters. It's not a snipe at Dave, it's just a joke.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
This video shows how to replace the rotating contact assembly if you can get one from the original supplier of the meter.
My mention of Dave at EEVblog is regarding his amusing contempt for cheaper meters. It's not a snipe at Dave, it's just a joke.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of YouTube's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
Springs that pop off go to the same dimension as missing socks and ink pens.
I don't know why the designers allow these weaknesses to exist in their designed products. OTOH I see a fair amount of asian-designed stuff that doesn't seem to take into account the "hard" usage that a lot of guys give their stuff, like how hard you'd twist that knob. I've done a fair amount of repairs on stuff like that, a prominent example being the DC input jacks for a certain well-known japanese maker of electronic musical instruments. They solder-masked the connector pins to have only the most minimal amount of solder in there, so when the plug that's inserted gets impacted, it tears the traces right off of the board. Cleaning off a bunch of that solder mask and applying lots of solder after repairing the broken traces fixed it.
I'm also reminded of a tv we had when I was a kid. Somebody got a little too enthusiastic turning the channel selector knob, and smapped the shaft behind the knob, which was made out of bakelite. Somehow my father managed to acquire a replacement part and watching him perform that repair was a little bit of what sparked my interest in this stuff way back when…
Futery love learning new words a vape reviewer i watch, calls fiddly stuff like playing finger fuck sally. Which is a very me saying, classless and proud.
I was thinking that split pin that breaks should be made of metal hmm i know obviously it probably cant be due to conducting electric perhaps.
sir, need help selector position for sanwa pc5000
I can't seem to find that amecal meter in the USA? Is it under a different brand name here? Maybe I should get a Klein meter, I'd like one that has the instant continuity like the amecal
"My knob went limp. The shaft is broken." — Big Clive, 2019.
Great vid again Clive thanks. I'm in the market for a new meter of reasonable quality (if I could afford an expensive one that would be a total Fluke). I've been looking at this model and like the fact that floppyknob syndrome can be treated rather than just binning the whole thing. Quick question though. When replacing the selector module would you suggest cleaning the tracks and wiping contacts (on the new module) with a little iso on a cotton bud – or just dropping the new part straight in?
I have a way substandard fuse on my current meter.. Brand new at the time, not used to the control scheme. Insert more excuses here.
i blew up a kal equipment meter, on the high output of a harley mag. whoops 399 dollar mistake
This mechanism looks needlessly complex for what it needs to do. Most meters I've taken apart before had the contacts directly on the back of the knob, instead of such a multi-part assembly…
I did this with my FLIR CM174. Totally broke it. AC and DC voltage would go nuts when testing something. Made me very sad.
I know these mechanisms very well. Yes; quite fiddly and it takes patience and dexterity to accomplish. A small dab of grease is great for holding ball bearings in place. Ah, Yes. The spring. Dexterity comes into play.
Awesome, Clive!!! Thank, You!!