This module was sent to me by a chap called Mike because it had failed in his new Beko fridge. It's interesting because it is possibly designed to be cheaper to use than a conventional lamp holder and LED lamp, while also ensuring maximum profit if a replacement is needed out of warranty. (£20 plus shipping at the point of making this video.)
So here's how it works, how to test the LEDs and decide if perhaps one needs bridged to get it working again.
Keep in mind that the fridge must be unplugged from the wall before attempting to install or remove this panel, as it operates at mains voltage.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
So here's how it works, how to test the LEDs and decide if perhaps one needs bridged to get it working again.
Keep in mind that the fridge must be unplugged from the wall before attempting to install or remove this panel, as it operates at mains voltage.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
http://www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
Question for anyone would ionizers around a game console help with keeping dust out of the console?
Perhaps soldering on the test wires fixed a bad solder joint.
I got a feeling in case of one failed LED you can bridge it with just another 100 Ohm resistor, if my crude estimation isn't far off.
Although, if the voltage drop of an LED is around 3V, then something like 147 Ohm would serve even better.
Damn, just ordered multiple spares for this exact part including new switch just incase and sods law I find this video…least I can have a fiddle about and maybe fix it while having some spares stocked for future
Thanks for showing us how it plugs in 🙈
There's a failure mode in the fridge where the bulb won't shut off when the door closed, and the heat from the bulb could cause the motor to run a lot more
Cost to replace is like 10 times the old bulb type… so they can sell thousands of them… It's all about money…
Is the capacitor in series before the rectifier being used here as a resistor basically, to drastically reduce the voltage ? I don't really understand how it's taking 230 and turning it into 50 odd volts
Ugh, I have about 30 whirlpool fridges with integrated LED lights that fail ALL THE TIME! There's 1 main LED board that powers two others in the fridge and freezer, and they're $150-$200 each. Such a rip-off, to replace them all is upwards of $500, and I've had to replace many.
Why the fuck did they use "L" for the LEDs? L is for inductors. That could be very confusing to some subcontractors, though I'm sure they'd probably figure it out. But why not use D like every other circuit board in existence?
The real reason for lead free is so people like me who solder every day, are not exposed to the heavy metal. I no longer have to handle or breath lead. BGA are no more fragile, properly made lead free joints are not bad and soldering with lead free solder is no more difficult if you just get used to it, I no longer miss lead. Some areas of electronics are still using lead because of the worry of tin whisker, not brittle joints. Please get used to lead free, use a good soldering iron, Pace for example, add a little more heat and use a good modern solder with a good low fume flux. You will learn to love it Clive. Please keep doing the great videos and stay well and safe!
The reason isn't cheapness. The reason is that EU global warming regulations resulted in flammable hydrocarbon refrigerants, namely R-600a butane, replacing R-134a which has a high GWP. The result is that incandescent bulbs cannot be used because the high temperature can ignite the refrigerant in the event of a leak, the module has been validated that it will not produce high temperatures or sparks.
The board is meant to self destruct after the date of warranty it's a scam how do we convert these or bypass all the circuits to get the LEDs working
I was just visiting with my Uncle, who is a certified Ford Mechanic, runs his own shop, and has for over 45 years now, at any rate, we were discussing my Ford Edge, he compared the service price on some of the new GM cars, said that if one LED goes out on the Dash board, you can no longer replace just the LED but must replace the entire head with all gauges and speedometer, the works, so get the dash to light up once more, you can order that head for a bit over 8 thousand bucks, now, however there are aftermarket replacements available for 3 thousand bucks. This because the LEDs are sealed in the head now. Makes me want to get an old one and see if a fellow could find a way in and do the replacement for a few bucks instead, but I didn't wish to find out for fear I would be swamped with heads to replace LEDS in.